FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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You can see on the cylinder where the decomp was blowing by during my attempted running. The valve pictured in there is a Stihl one I borrowed from another saw, farmertec got chunked. Thought out was a neat pic.
View attachment 635426

I'mactually suprised I actually got it running without an impulse and random compression loss.
Yea they will run for a bit without impulse just not very good. Lol. How's it running now?? :chainsaw:
 
That's one of those pictures that you can see both ways (raised edge up or down) depending on how your eye catches it. If you stare at it you make it flip.

The raised part goes down into the crankcase right? That is the "bowl" correct? thx!
 
should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?

also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one
 
should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?

also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one
Need to take a picture for us so we can make out what you are trying to do exactly. And yes you can use the farmertec worm gear.
 
should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?

also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one

Mine was doing the same thing. There is a milled "groove" that is runs between. My clutch drum was pushing it down and hitting the case on the bottom of the "groove".

I had to dremel the slot in the clutch drum deeper so it wouldn't push it down.
 
should the oiler metal piece touch the case? should I trim it if it does?

also, can i use the kit worm , plastic part and metal part, with the HO oiler? it didn't come with one

I don't know if yours is too long or too deep like mine was. If you dont have it deep enough into the pump it wont ride in the right spot.

This is the groove I was referring to. You can see the pin.
2018-02-24 22.16.10.jpg

I had to cut the slot into the clutch drum 4mm deep. It was like 2 and pushing the follower down.

2018-02-24 22.16.25.jpg
 
I didn't get to the clutch yet, I'll check that thx
The metal part shown below (oiler part) was rubbing on the case when it turns. It's too long, I ground some off. What does the metal rod part do? Does it move? I'm not sure what it's function is
s-l400.jpg
 
I didn't get to the clutch yet, I'll check that thx
The metal part shown below (oiler part) was rubbing on the case when it turns. It's too long, I ground some off. What does the metal rod part do? Does it move? I'm not sure what it's function is
View attachment 635514

It rides in the slot on the clutch drum and turns the gear in the oil pump. It's the oil pump driver.
 
Yep I know how that go's. Lol:happy:

Got it running. Started on the 3rd pull. Running like a scalded dog. I'll try to put it into wood tomorrow after church and if it's not raining to adjust it a little more and break it in.

My friend wants to buy it, but the price I told him prior to ordering it (he wanted to checheck it out first), isn't a clone saw with Walbro carb price. I'll switch it out tomorrow and compare how it runs with both.
 
Got it running. Started on the 3rd pull. Running like a scalded dog. I'll try to put it into wood tomorrow after church and if it's not raining to adjust it a little more and break it in.

My friend wants to buy it, but the price I told him prior to ordering it (he wanted to checheck it out first), isn't a clone saw with Walbro carb price. I'll switch it out tomorrow and compare how it runs with both.
That's great news but I'm sure you wont sell the saw you've got the best to daisies ms440 and ms660 or just sell it and buy another one for fun. Lol. :dancing:
 
That's great news but I'm sure you wont sell the saw you've got the best to daisies ms440 and ms660 or just sell it and buy another one for fun. Lol. :dancing:

Their 440 kit saw is really mean too. It came with the big bore cylinder, I omitted the base gasket, had the bottom milled to give me .018" squish, filed the flywheel key to advance timing, removed muffler baffle, port matched and cleaned out the ports. It has tons of power and is lighter.
 
I don't know if yours is too long or too deep like mine was. If you dont have it deep enough into the pump it wont ride in the right spot.

This is the groove I was referring to. You can see the pin.
View attachment 635505

I had to cut the slot into the clutch drum 4mm deep. It was like 2 and pushing the follower down.

View attachment 635506
Had to cut the clutch deeper too, thx!
 
Their 440 kit saw is really mean too. It came with the big bore cylinder, I omitted the base gasket, had the bottom milled to give me .018" squish, filed the flywheel key to advance timing, removed muffler baffle, port matched and cleaned out the ports. It has tons of power and is lighter.
Yea i built the ms440 to ran it for six months and sold it to a friend i ported it and it ran strong as well and still is. :chainsaw:
 
Anyone have problems with the clutch drum? mine won't go on, too tight. the bearing binds. bearings go on shaft and in drum, but not together

other videos, look like it drops right in

I saw this video, does ti sound like a good idea?
 
My crank shaft is at .394" and the drum is at .628" , can someone check theirs? have both FT and sthil oem bearing, same issue with both
 
Anyone have problems with the clutch drum? mine won't go on, too tight. the bearing binds. bearings go on shaft and in drum, but not together

other videos, look like it drops right in

I saw this video, does ti sound like a good idea?

I would just go with a orange drum and be done with it but that's just me..
 
Ya, I didn't hear of this issue, was trying to finish it today...I need a lathe haha. It's really binding on the bearing. Should it just slip on easily?

Gonna piss me off to wait another week or two for a new drum to come
 

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