FarmerTec MS200t What's in the Box

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An OEM boot will not leak on a new build it's really tight. Retainer would need to be in place.

The tab on the boot does not line up with the indicator on the cylinder like on many saws it goes to the left
fd196e0be582c6c34be633dc513e3c78.jpg
6fb9128d5f8b024bb945599fadcbd7aa.jpg


http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
 
LetsDig16 said:
... . I have a hard to start when it’s hot that maybe the boot after looking at the pics above....
Click to expand...
If your crank case and boot vacuum tested well during assembly and assuming fuel is fresh, then your hard start when hot could be a carb or carb adjustment, fuel line or fuel vent. The Repair Specialist is quite boring but offer an excellent 101 to understanding small engine operations:
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheRepairSpecialist/search?query=difficult+start
FYI, I posted a melted boot a while ago, but regardless of the melting at the cylinder, there was no leak ... just deformation.

LetsDig16 said:
... And the last I can’t figure out it the vibration. With or without the bar it has a vibration like a poulan wild thing. It’s something I can’t get over if I can’t find a fix. I’m guessing the crank or the flywheel. A Oem flywheel or crank is out the question due to the price. I’m thinking I should have got a new 201 or try this echo everyone’s mentioning. Has anyone else had this problem?
Click to expand...
My pre-Huztl Kit initially bounces around while idling on the ground, but handles fine when in the hand, wasn't jarring or anything. Its a small saw after all. Now after 20 plus tanks, it is bouncing less. Maybe you can describe the vibration a little better and hopefully someone can come up with a solution. Think Ketchup has the right idea, recheck your saw for assembly inconsistencies first.

Ketchup said:
Vibration could be an assembly error. Check all your AV, your tank bolts, the clutch bearing, bar stud, the flywheel (it may be rubbing the coil on one side, check to see if you bolted it down while the magnets were contacting).
The intake boots can leak easily, I assemble them with ThreeBond 1184 on the intake spigot. It's relatively easy to put the plastic boot ring on incorrectly or incompletey also. I doubt that's your vibration but it could be related to a dificult hot start. Used OEM cranks and flywheels are available relatively cheap on Ebay.
You probably know all that already, but that's what I would do.
Click to expand...
+1 on sealant with the boot. I use Loctite 718 for all my chainsaw boots. Although not required, it definitely helps to take a boot leak problem out of the equation.
 
Aftermarket carb boots are terrible, tried 3, all 3 melted after about a month use, on 3 different saws. I’m speaking of the Chinese boot for the MS 200t, I d recommend changing them out for OEM as soon as possible, even though they go for about 3 times the cost of chi-com crap. The 200t is a great little saw, don’t risk it for the price of a twelve pack of beer. :cool:
 
Axotopia said:
If your crank case and boot vacuum tested well during assembly and assuming fuel is fresh, then your hard start when hot could be a carb or carb adjustment, fuel line or fuel vent. The Repair Specialist is quite boring but offer an excellent 101 to understanding small engine operations:
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheRepairSpecialist/search?query=difficult+start
FYI, I posted a melted boot a while ago, but regardless of the melting at the cylinder, there was no leak ... just deformation.


My pre-Huztl Kit initially bounces around while idling on the ground, but handles fine when in the hand, wasn't jarring or anything. Its a small saw after all. Now after 20 plus tanks, it is bouncing less. Maybe you can describe the vibration a little better and hopefully someone can come up with a solution. Think Ketchup has the right idea, recheck your saw for assembly inconsistencies first.


+1 on sealant with the boot. I use Loctite 718 for all my chainsaw boots. Although not required, it definitely helps to take a boot leak problem out of the equation.
Click to expand...
Heat can change a tight boot to a loose woman. Fuel circuit can interfere. If mind does it I can fix it.will let you know.
.
My crank was rolled along a jig he fit , I am sure he can use it on clutch

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
 
Ketchup said:
Vibration could be an assembly error. Check all your AV, your tank bolts, the clutch bearing, bar stud, the flywheel (it may be rubbing the coil on one side, check to see if you bolted it down while the magnets were contacting).

The intake boots can leak easily, I assemble them with ThreeBond 1184 on the intake spigot. It's relatively easy to put the plastic boot ring on incorrectly or incompletey also. I doubt that's your vibration but it could be related to a dificult hot start. Used OEM cranks and flywheels are available relatively cheap on Ebay.

You probably know all that already, but that's what I would do.
Click to expand...
Am I the second person to have a running 200t? Does the first guy have excessive vibration?
I did some checking. My coil is still gapped ok.
I removed the handle to check bolts and the boot. My bolts are tight but my boot is very soft now.
It pressure tested ok but the boot swole up like a balloon when pressurized and I suspect it could suck flat also while running.
It’s not my clutch because before disassembly I ran it without it.
The saw is now down while I order a boot from my dealer that’s 20miles away.
I need a 2nd saw this week. Normally a second saw is my back up but were busy as **** this week.

While the saw is down how do I check the crank on a jig? I’m trying to picture how that works?
I’m thinking the crank isn’t straight or true.
 
My neighbor has a setup where he has two small parallel panels with a hard flat edge and he said they were true and he ran it down by hand and watched the clearance. So he had it covered on a roll and from side to side. It was simple and as close to helpful as you could get on a work bench.

I have not finished mine I am waiting on the Jack leg to get my piston bearing

What did they tell you the boot cost,?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
I don’t have a set up like that so I’ll pass on checking it.
I just called and the boot was 32.99 plus he said he would ship it to me for $5. I should get it next week.
What’s wrong with the bearing?
Should I have replaced it?
 
The video doesn’t work. No I used the one that came with it and it doesn’t leak. Oh I see the other posts now. Huh i don’t have one ordered.
 
It was post 13

The point is your waiting. I ran into a problem that could effect you too. I asked about the ring in case it pans out it's something we can change and you not have another surprise.

Sorry I did not intend for a video to show. It was the thread I was pointing you too so I did not have to repeat myself.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
 
LetsDig16 said:
While the saw is down how do I check the crank on a jig? I’m trying to picture how that works?
I’m thinking the crank isn’t straight or true.
Click to expand...

Find a machine shop, or a friend with a manual lathe. Put the lathe in neutral, or the highest speed gear (you won't turn on the lathe). Chuck the PTO side of the crank in the headstock, put a dial indicator capable of measuring 0.001" +/- 0.0005" on the flywheel side of the shaft and slowly rotate the headstock/chuck while you measure runout on the dial indicator. For extra measure, put the flywheel side in the chuck and measure on the PTO side of the crank if you saw any movement of the needle. You should be less than 0.001" for a straight and true crank. Anything over 0.005" and you should replace.
 
I wish I would have done that from the start but I had no idea.
Let’s say it is out of spec, should I order another cheap crank to try or spend more than the saws worth on a oem.
Also would it be wrong to trade it in at a pawn shop on anything they have name brand? It doesn’t have Stihl on it and I wouldn’t say anything if not asked. Or I may just throw in the towel and take one to the chin because I knew better. It’s not my hobby to constantly work on it, I have limited time and energy after a day of being in a bucket truck most of the day. I Guess I’m going to think about it this week while I wait on my boot and I’ll see where I’m at then. Maybe someone else will have one running to compare by then.
I have no up and down movement in the bearings so it’s got to be the flywheel or the crank.
 

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