FarmerTec MS200t What's in the Box

[alabama xl]

I don't see how the manifold would fail from fuel before your fuel lines. Lines swim in it and they look to be the same material. I bet they reformulated the material to protect against fuel damage and did not cover heat. I will just get a better one and move on.

The oil line is crap. If your oiler has a low output suspect that line

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

I kind of figured using the huztl rubber parts was going to be a waste of time. If I ever get to messing with one of these, I’ll definitely get OEM for that. Heat plus deterioration from fuel might could cause damage faster than from ambient temp fuel alone. No idea, though.

 

[Imprzed205]

My kits are on the way. I’ve been watching this guy Matt disassemble and repair a 200t.
He seems to go step by step pretty good if anyone is having trouble. He’s a character

 

[Bedford T]

My kits are on the way. I’ve been watching this guy Matt disassemble and repair a 200t.
He seems to go step by step pretty good if anyone is having trouble. He’s a character

Shame on you. This guy. Dave you are a big baby

For the Chinese this is davhul, x66 Stang,347 x

http://thechainsawkitguy.com

https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy

 

[Derf]

Can anyone help me here... a lot of the Huztl / Farmertec kits are fun, and usually about $145 buys you a copy of what is a $700 saw. But the MS200T kit is $172.80 (Normally $216, 20% off at the moment), which makes it just a little bit more than the average Farmertec knock-off kit. Then DHL / TNT / UPS / FedEX shipping is $49.89 for delivery of said kit. So now you're in for $222.69.
And this saw kit doesn't appear to come with a bar or chain, so you've got to outlay something for that... maybe you have something already you can use, but you might not. Maybe you can pick up a cheapie set on ebay for $20, although you'll probably spend at least $35 for something name-brand and to feel like you're getting something at least a little better than the cheapest thing available.
But even so, let's say you cheaped out on the B&C and you're at $250 all in at this point. Are you free and clear? Have you snagged a great DEAL on a direct clone of a legendary climbing saw? I mean, come on, even beat-to-hell used ones are selling on ebay for $400-$500 dollars!

Right off the bat it says that it is missing parts (slide and bracket). Plus a bunch of parts are felt to be of such low quality that its recommended to buy OEM or AM replacements.
Fuel lines, intake boot, crank bearings, seals, piston ring, piston circlip, etc etc etc. I don't know all the parts that are "bad", but I know that you don't HAVE to replace them, just that many people feel they would. I know LoneWolf who works on OEM 200Ts left and right has said many of the Farmertec parts are sh't and no-where near OEM quality, so you probably SHOULD spend a little more to get some quality where it matters. After all, if your $5 intake boot fails, there goes another $33 for a meteor piston kit. If you don't get a $10 carb, you might have $225 into a saw that doesn't run right and isn't really usable. You catch my drift...

So if you'd like to pick and choose your quality parts mixed into the cheap kit, how much more do you need to spend to get this kit saw into the reliable category? $30? $50? $100?

Not to mention, some of the people who have reviewed the cylinder say it isn't the best. There is casting flash that they felt they needed to clean up, or it didn't seal well against the case to make much compression. And when putting the saw together some things just don't fit. Other times things require you to have to modify them (sometimes creatively come up with a solution) to get it to work. Are we having fun yet cutting any wood?

The reason I'm asking is there is another thread on another site talking about the Echo top handle saws. For $350 I can walk into a local Home Depot and buy a new CS355T top handle saw that gets great reviews, AND comes with a 16" bar and chain, AND comes with a 5 year warranty (for non commercial use) in case anything goes wrong.

So when comparing the $250+ Chinese knock-off to a $350 Japanese original, is it just the fun of putting together a chainsaw from pieces that makes it look like this is a good idea?

 

[Bedford T]

For me it's fun. I make it the best it can be. It is what it is. Sounds like you may want to get you an echo. All these choices and problems are best left to us idiots.

Can anyone help me here... a lot of the Huztl / Farmertec kits are fun, and usually about $145 buys you a copy of what is a $700 saw. But the MS200T kit is $172.80 (Normally $216, 20% off at the moment), which makes it just a little bit more than the average Farmertec knock-off kit. Then DHL / TNT / UPS / FedEX shipping is $49.89 for delivery of said kit. So now you're in for $222.69.
And this saw kit doesn't appear to come with a bar or chain, so you've got to outlay something for that... maybe you have something already you can use, but you might not. Maybe you can pick up a cheapie set on ebay for $20, although you'll probably spend at least $35 for something name-brand and to feel like you're getting something at least a little better than the cheapest thing available.
But even so, let's say you cheaped out on the B&C and you're at $250 all in at this point. Are you free and clear? Have you snagged a great DEAL on a direct clone of a legendary climbing saw? I mean, come on, even beat-to-hell used ones are selling on ebay for $400-$500 dollars!

Right off the bat it says that it is missing parts (slide and bracket). Plus a bunch of parts are felt to be of such low quality that its recommended to buy OEM or AM replacements.
Fuel lines, intake boot, crank bearings, seals, piston ring, piston circlip, etc etc etc. I don't know all the parts that are "bad", but I know that you don't HAVE to replace them, just that many people feel they would. I know LoneWolf who works on OEM 200Ts left and right has said many of the Farmertec parts are sh't and no-where near OEM quality, so you probably SHOULD spend a little more to get some quality where it matters. After all, if your $5 intake boot fails, there goes another $33 for a meteor piston kit. If you don't get a $10 carb, you might have $225 into a saw that doesn't run right and isn't really usable. You catch my drift...

So if you'd like to pick and choose your quality parts mixed into the cheap kit, how much more do you need to spend to get this kit saw into the reliable category? $30? $50? $100?

Not to mention, some of the people who have reviewed the cylinder say it isn't the best. There is casting flash that they felt they needed to clean up, or it didn't seal well against the case to make much compression. And when putting the saw together some things just don't fit. Other times things require you to have to modify them (sometimes creatively come up with a solution) to get it to work. Are we having fun yet cutting any wood?

The reason I'm asking is there is another thread on another site talking about the Echo top handle saws. For $350 I can walk into a local Home Depot and buy a new CS355T top handle saw that gets great reviews, AND comes with a 16" bar and chain, AND comes with a 5 year warranty (for non commercial use) in case anything goes wrong.

So when comparing the $250+ Chinese knock-off to a $350 Japanese original, is it just the fun of putting together a chainsaw from pieces that makes it look like this is a good idea?

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[Bedford T]

I rechecked the cylinder and it needs nothing other than to be used. Ready to fit. 1st cylinder other than the 070 and one other kit that needed nothing. The others were not finished well, but with that said there is a lot of folks running them.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[Axotopia]

Derf, i think if you are looking for a saw that is bang for the buck, and works out of the box, the Echo is a great choice. Its way cheaper than a Huztl kit when you add up the OEM parts that you may eventually get.
The Huztl kits are for people who loves to explore the fringes, tinker and solve tons of problems. They are great educational tools that most likely end up costing more than a used working OEM saw. What you get in the end is the confidence to fix and improve the chainsaws that you own.
The Farmertec parts, for about 5-15% the price of OEM, are impressive copies. Visually, the quality is very good; however, durability is always a question for the moment.
If you just need to get work done, get the Echo X series like the CS-2511T if you need a top handle saw, it'll be cheaper and less frustrating than a Huztl Kit in the long run.

 

[Charles Bale]

All good points. But the bigger the farmtec, the bigger the spread from oem

 

[Ketchup]

I bought a Ft 200t kit. $227
An OEM carb new. $84
OEM intake boot. $32!
Meteor piston/Caber rings. $45
4+ hrs assembly and tuning. $120?

A basically new 200t that I have personally inspected inside and out. $508

$338 if you don't count my time.
The CS355t is a good saw, but not as good as a 200t. So I feel happy with the decision. Definitely not for everybody though.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

My kits are on the way. I’ve been watching this guy Matt disassemble and repair a 200t.
He seems to go step by step pretty good if anyone is having trouble. He’s a character

I was especially impressed by his case splitting technique(s).

 

[67L36Driver]

All good points. But the bigger the farmtec, the bigger the spread from oem

In Farmertec kits, I wouldn’t mess with anything smaller than a MS360.

But, demand being the driving force, the 200t is a no brainer.

Got one I’m building now. Parts are in the very good to excellent range so far.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Can anyone help me here... a lot of the Huztl / Farmertec kits are fun, and usually about $145 buys you a copy of what is a $700 saw. But the MS200T kit is $172.80 (Normally $216, 20% off at the moment), which makes it just a little bit more than the average Farmertec knock-off kit. Then DHL / TNT / UPS / FedEX shipping is $49.89 for delivery of said kit. So now you're in for $222.69.
And this saw kit doesn't appear to come with a bar or chain, so you've got to outlay something for that... maybe you have something already you can use, but you might not. Maybe you can pick up a cheapie set on ebay for $20, although you'll probably spend at least $35 for something name-brand and to feel like you're getting something at least a little better than the cheapest thing available.
But even so, let's say you cheaped out on the B&C and you're at $250 all in at this point. Are you free and clear? Have you snagged a great DEAL on a direct clone of a legendary climbing saw? I mean, come on, even beat-to-hell used ones are selling on ebay for $400-$500 dollars!

Right off the bat it says that it is missing parts (slide and bracket). Plus a bunch of parts are felt to be of such low quality that its recommended to buy OEM or AM replacements.
Fuel lines, intake boot, crank bearings, seals, piston ring, piston circlip, etc etc etc. I don't know all the parts that are "bad", but I know that you don't HAVE to replace them, just that many people feel they would. I know LoneWolf who works on OEM 200Ts left and right has said many of the Farmertec parts are sh't and no-where near OEM quality, so you probably SHOULD spend a little more to get some quality where it matters. After all, if your $5 intake boot fails, there goes another $33 for a meteor piston kit. If you don't get a $10 carb, you might have $225 into a saw that doesn't run right and isn't really usable. You catch my drift...

So if you'd like to pick and choose your quality parts mixed into the cheap kit, how much more do you need to spend to get this kit saw into the reliable category? $30? $50? $100?

Not to mention, some of the people who have reviewed the cylinder say it isn't the best. There is casting flash that they felt they needed to clean up, or it didn't seal well against the case to make much compression. And when putting the saw together some things just don't fit. Other times things require you to have to modify them (sometimes creatively come up with a solution) to get it to work. Are we having fun yet cutting any wood?

The reason I'm asking is there is another thread on another site talking about the Echo top handle saws. For $350 I can walk into a local Home Depot and buy a new CS355T top handle saw that gets great reviews, AND comes with a 16" bar and chain, AND comes with a 5 year warranty (for non commercial use) in case anything goes wrong.

So when comparing the $250+ Chinese knock-off to a $350 Japanese original, is it just the fun of putting together a chainsaw from pieces that makes it look like this is a good idea?

I did a lot of research last week on the newest line of the Echo Top handle saws and from what I read Echo seems to be on top right now for top handle saws. This would be of course factoring in cost, warranty, parts etc... As soon as funds are available I will be buying the Echo 2155t, not a do it all top handle but certainly an amazing limbing saw. 200T is a great saw from what people say but its also a big climbing saw. I've never been one to jump on the band wagon until I've thoroughly researched the topic. Personally I would buy the Echo 355T if I need that size of top handle.

Like someone else said on here, many people probably just enjoy building the saw, not necessarily doing it to save the money. I can definitely understand that.

 

[Ketchup]

The 200t clone kits have a lot of benefits for builders and saw mechanics. Benefits that Echo lacks. Parts for Echos are spendy and hard to find used.

In some ways, these kits are a blow to Echo. They will keep 200ts in the hands of tree guys long after the original saws are worn out so they're not forced to pick between 201t or 355t. Truth be told, all three are damn good saws.

 

[Derf]

The 200t clone kits have a lot of benefits for builders and saw mechanics. Benefits that Echo lacks. Parts for Echos are spendy and hard to find used.
.

That’s a pretty broad generalization. I see lots of used Echo parts on SawAgain and Chainsawr and ebay.


And while you see the clone as having benefits for the builders and saw mechanics, the flip side is replacement parts for the clone are either also clones, coming from China and you have to wait, or for OEM you have to go to your local (or non local) Stihl dealer to ask them to order something for you.
Echo parts are available all over the web and you can order from your home and they can be there in a couple days.

As for Echo parts being spendy, well, I always thought Stihl parts were spendy. But if you want to argue a price difference between Stihl and Echo, have a look at these online prices and tell me what equivalent 200T part is Stihl selling for so much cheaper?


https://www.ereplacementparts.com/e...dle-chain-saw-parts-c-35043_35970_447201.html

 

[Yotaismygame]

The 200t clone kits have a lot of benefits for builders and saw mechanics. Benefits that Echo lacks. Parts for Echos are spendy and hard to find used.

In some ways, these kits are a blow to Echo. They will keep 200ts in the hands of tree guys long after the original saws are worn out so they're not forced to pick between 201t or 355t. Truth be told, all three are damn good saws.

I'm not brand loyal to anything i own or consider buying, I buy whats best for me...

You sound like a perfect example of someone who wont take the time to look at other brands or even consider them just because you're stuck on stihl. Bahumbug my stihl saw is the best there will ever be rabble rabble....

but seriously lets not derail this thread by starting a brand war. BTW I dont own any echo's...yet

 

[Bedford T]

I am hearing about bad parts. You guys are way off base. This reviews were not on kits. Those i bet are where they bought parts and assembled the saws. At that time there were issues with the handle fitment, multiple issues with the fuel tank...etc. FarmerTec told me there were problems and until they were straighten out they would not produce a kit. Then they recently did produce the kit so I assumed they ironed out the big problems.

so in this kit, today, the parts generally are real good and I showed them to anyone that cared to watch. i said i was worried about the handle shell weight but I checked and they are the same, all good there. The cylinder finish is perfect. The piston is average, good. Since I am building I choose to substitute parts I feel are important to the longevity of the saw and I replace them. Like the piston bearing. The bearing they sent may last 50 years but my confidence in the stihl bearing is higher, just because. The recoil looks to be excellent, if it was a heavy saw I would want to replace the rotor, just because, i am replacing nothing on the recoil. I am tuff with farmertec. If there was something to be concerned about I would tell you and the whole world. i have a lot of guys that contact me from countries all over the world and i hear about issues that you dont hear. right now all is good.

I will give you an example. I looked at the boot and with what I know about the stress the handle places on the boot i decided to replace it with an obscenely expensive oem boot. Then I heard about people having farmertec boots melt. When i got the oem boot I noticed right away the oem boot is much larger and the boot fits extra tight on the cylinder, so a farmertec boot that is not the right size it could cause bad problems. I take a real hard look at everything. Wait until I am done and no one will be taking a chance. You will know everything up front.

now how they pack the kits in the future could be radically different than today. that is the issue with them that really pisses me off. but right now this trash talk is not true.

I have not fit the handle yet, but i tested the fuel tank the day i got the kit. tight as a drum. i can only go as fast as i can get the parts i want to replace. i got everything but the lead retainer and the piston bearing today and i got a little further. the piston bearing is non negotiable with me so the second i get it we can find any remaining flaws. I have 32$ in smalls, 38$? in the boot and the bearing was 36$? my money is on it lasting if it all fits up. I will not swing in trees with it. Its possible it would last a good while if used daily. The changes i made to my 660 and 440 have made them 100% trust worthy when my life is on the line...to me. lots of guys use the kits in their work. when they run over them there are fewer tears.

they are actually posting from time to time. i have caught it a few times, they are slick, but interested in our money. a guy that chats me in private, tore his blue 660 cylinder off and said he was impressed. in the past they put their worst crap in an assembled saw. i not sure what to make of it. he could actually be in china, its hard to tell now days. but looking at the kit cylinder its excellent or i would already have a meteor. kits are fun too.

the oil line and boot and the only things that guys who are not picky should replace..so far

 

[Axotopia]

I did a lot of research last week on the newest line of the Echo Top handle saws and from what I read Echo seems to be on top right now for top handle saws. This would be of course factoring in cost, warranty, parts etc... As soon as funds are available I will be buying the Echo 2155t, not a do it all top handle but certainly an amazing limbing saw. 200T is a great saw from what people say but its also a big climbing saw. I've never been one to jump on the band wagon until I've thoroughly researched the topic. Personally I would buy the Echo 355T if I need that size of top handle.
Like someone else said on here, many people probably just enjoy building the saw, not necessarily doing it to save the money. I can definitely understand that.

If you are planning on the 2511T, put a dawg on the saw to improve handling per Hotsaws101's video ( ) . I would have bought the 2511T myself and be done before I stumbled on AS and contracted CAD.

Back to the topic, the Farmertec MS200T I have is pre-Huztl kit assembled back July this year. Considering my 90% Farmertec with 10% OEM cost about $440 to assemble to date, the current Huztl kit is a great deal.
The visual quality of Farmertec parts were very impressive, the crank case, crank, cylinder and piston were all really well made, significantly nicer than I had anticipated.
Only issues I had so far are:
- carburetor will not idle - had to rebuild a used OEM and plug the accelerator pump.
- fitment of the plastic covers over the brake, clutch and oiler were off - had to trim fit with a dremel
- oil pump failed, had to get that replaced.
- oil line kinks easy as Bedford has shown in his video.
- Intake boot melted ... still diagnosing issues.
- screws are very soft and I have striped or snapped the heads off one.
I list these issues just to see if the some of you can track if Farmertec has made any improvements with the Huztl kit.
On the plus side, everything else fit together perfect, and the seals and bearings are holding up well.

Curiously, I ordered replacement parts recently and noticed that some of the parts received this week were slightly lower in quality from the one received in June. These were the chain catcher which had horrible finish and fuel vent line being too long and kinks. However, I should also mention that the spare crank I bought for my MS461 looks a lot better machined than the OEM crank in my case. Come to show that its hard to generalize Farmertec part's quality.

The Farmertec parts has some minor problems, but it also has promise for keeping the MS200T and other legacy saws genre alive and working. It is definitely not Stihl consistent quality which the pros can rely on and abuse for most part, but for the hobbyist or homeowners who is not running the saws everyday, what you get is a lot more than what you pay.

 

[Ketchup]

Derf, your point is well made. New parts prices aren't as bad as I remembered on the 355t. I wouldn't say I'm brand loyal, but a lot of tree guys are loyal to 200t. Echo just isn't very popular here, so finding builders or carcasses is rare. That's where the cheapest parts always are.

The cylinder in my 200t kit has two notable blemishes in the intake port that go all the way to the outside of the casting. Currently they seem fine. Otherwise it is nearly identical to OEM. The piston is a little sloppy against the connecting rod compared to Meteor (which is a machined flat perfect fit). I got caber rings as part of the meteor kit, so I never ran the FT rings or piston.

Every FT fuel line for 200t that I have seen is too long on the tank vent side, this one included. I just cut it shorter. They also seem a lot thinner walled and more prone to collapse.

I've never had luck with FT carbs so I replaced it before install. I will swap it in and report back.

I questioned going with the FT bearings, but they look good and it's an excellent design, so I left them. I figure if they take a dump I'll deck the case as part of the rebuild.

So far my oiler works. It looked cheaper than OEM, but why not try it? I shortened that line also.

My covers also needed minor sculpting. I have seen this a lot on OEM as well.

That's where I'm at with mine. Not much run time yet though.

 

[67L36Driver]

Found a Gotcha! Do Over!.

Not readily apparent is the routing of the plug wire.

Wrong:

Correct:

Good thing I have a clients project saw for reference.

And, took a good while searching thru the packages to find the small head 5mm that locates the guide bar tail.

 

[alabama xl]

How is the chain tensioner? I got one for my ms440 from huztl the other day, and it is total garbage. Inside of the gear where it mounts on the post on the saw case was machined with a dull bit, and the quality of both gears is less than usable, and that is just the beginning of the problems with fit and finish on that part. It’s not only a bad part, but will in short order destroy the case of your saw if you leave it installed, due to poor/rough finish wearing against the case. I had to go to the dealer and get the real parts, it was like night and day.

I hope this saw goes together well for you, regardless!