Farmertech 372xp wont hold a tune

[BrettS]

) and an older H 350 that continues to cut well, rev well, 4 stroke out of the cut, but just will not idle slow enough to stop the chain from spinning. That saw is the next long frustrating project to cure.

I seem to have to tune my H350 every time I use it...

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Dont' make it too big or the plastic grommet will fall out.I noticed mine slips out once in a while, maybe its because I drilled it too big.I honestly don't remember drilling it.I am going to find a circlip that fits tight on the choke shaft thats inside that hole. Drill pretty slow.

Yea I finally got it to fit and work. I just was busy yesterday and I did get my vent yesterday and of course it didnt fit directly in the "new tank" handle I had on the saw. So I had to improvise with some heat shrink tubing and a slight bit of motoseal. (For the vent) the carb seems to run okay and tuned decent still a little slow on the rev up but we will see because I havent had a chance to actually run the balls off it in some wood. The old vent had that gold colored deal inside of a larger piece of black plastic vent with a red rubber 1 way valve inside it also. Now when I pressurize the tank it leaks down okay and when I pump vacuum it draws even slower so hopefully it will keep up

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Good ideas for helping keep coming in. Good thread.
My 372 update: ran the saw, felling and bucking to firewood lengths, several Ponderosas yesterday. Saw performed flawlessly.
I also ran the big Makita on a few trees, just so it wouldn't feel deprived. And cut a couple of medium pondos with my recently modified H 455. That did well, too. Much narrower power band on the 455. Gotta focus on the rpms more.

Also did some minor limbing with my newly acquired and rebuilt CS400 (big grins) and an older H 350 that continues to cut well, rev well, 4 stroke out of the cut, but just will not idle slow enough to stop the chain from spinning. That saw is the next long frustrating project to cure.

Why wont it idle slower? Not to sound dumb but can you or have you adjusted the mechanical throttle screw? Not the low or high but the idle screw ? And or is the throttle linkage bound up? Intake leak? Those where notorious for the plastic intake thing leaking I do believe. My 455 i had was too. The o ring on the intake at the top of the carb leaked all the time.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Kinda like the EPA gas cans that seem to be more prevalent in the states then here in Canada at least in Ontario I can still buy vented cans.

I used to have the same gas can bone to pick also until they came out with them big yellow headed push button cans I actually like them they seem to vent find amd dont leak a drop if tipped upside down. I'll post a pic. I get them at tractor supply

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

I used to have the same gas can bone to pick also until they came out with them big yellow headed push button cans I actually like them they seem to vent find amd dont leak a drop if tipped upside down. I'll post a pic. I get them at tractor supply

I also have some of these race fuel cans which vent fine also but are a pain without the hose neck bender piece. I also added a shut off valve t0 my can

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Another suggestion:If the throttle cable doesn't allow enough play you can take a fine hacksaw blade to trim the plastic insert slightly.Run it in the cable groove lightly until you have enough play.

Thanks again for the carburetor idea it was half the price of the walbro wsvn after buying cobalt drill bits that I'll use again. So thanks again! I will keep updates with how it acts today I plan to try and test her out. I hope shes good to go.i also just acquired a brand new to me 2020 husqvarna 440 I know a tiny homeowner saw but just thought I'd share. Got it for close to peanuts. Super clean brand new Oregon bar amd chain couldn't complain

 

[4CornersPuddle]

Why wont it idle slower? Not to sound dumb but can you or have you adjusted the mechanical throttle screw? Not the low or high but the idle screw ? And or is the throttle linkage bound up? Intake leak? Those where notorious for the plastic intake thing leaking I do believe. My 455 i had was too. The o ring on the intake at the top of the carb leaked all the time.

Alan, oh yes, I've looked the whole saw over many times chasing red herrings mostly. After the re-assembly this past winter, the intake boot ended up with a tear. Replaced the boot and used another metal clamp. Saw was fine for 20 minutes. Then I suspected the throttle not closing. Investigated the linkage and return spring and "thought I'd got somewhere". That lasted another 20 minutes of run time before the high idle returned.

The saw fell into my hands after the former owner burned up the p/c when milling with that little saw! One of the crankcase bolts had loosened leading to a severe air leak. Of course at some time, the muffler has loosened and melted some of the oil tank plastic. It's got the 346 style bracket on it now.

What else? Multiple trial carbs, new fuel line, yada yada. If it weren't just an inanimate object, I'd be inclined to think it is possessed and wants to sit in the lineup waiting for time on my workbench rather than working.

BTW, is your home Freedom, Wyoming? Home of the Casull? I lived in and up above Kelly for many years.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Alan, oh yes, I've looked the whole saw over many times chasing red herrings mostly. After the re-assembly this past winter, the intake boot ended up with a tear. Replaced the boot and used another metal clamp. Saw was fine for 20 minutes. Then I suspected the throttle not closing. Investigated the linkage and return spring and "thought I'd got somewhere". That lasted another 20 minutes of run time before the high idle returned.

The saw fell into my hands after the former owner burned up the p/c when milling with that little saw! One of the crankcase bolts had loosened leading to a severe air leak. Of course at some time, the muffler has loosened and melted some of the oil tank plastic. It's got the 346 style bracket on it now.

What else? Multiple trial carbs, new fuel line, yada yada. If it weren't just an inanimate object, I'd be inclined to think it is possessed and wants to sit in the lineup waiting for time on my workbench rather than working.

BTW, is your home Freedom, Wyoming? Home of the Casull? I lived in and up above Kelly for many years.

Oh wow yeah I've had a few items act that way as I too think they're possessed. Even right down to mouse traps I have been setting in my shop,twice now I set a mouse trap and in the morning it's just gone! Vanished! Along with 10mm sockets. But yea my 372 clone has been sorta active ngf that way too chasing a stupid 8ssue that has become more intermittent but we will see today if I get a chance to run it. And no I'm in freedom New York. New york is the a**hole of the world I think

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Alan, oh yes, I've looked the whole saw over many times chasing red herrings mostly. After the re-assembly this past winter, the intake boot ended up with a tear. Replaced the boot and used another metal clamp. Saw was fine for 20 minutes. Then I suspected the throttle not closing. Investigated the linkage and return spring and "thought I'd got somewhere". That lasted another 20 minutes of run time before the high idle returned.

The saw fell into my hands after the former owner burned up the p/c when milling with that little saw! One of the crankcase bolts had loosened leading to a severe air leak. Of course at some time, the muffler has loosened and melted some of the oil tank plastic. It's got the 346 style bracket on it now.

What else? Multiple trial carbs, new fuel line, yada yada. If it weren't just an inanimate object, I'd be inclined to think it is possessed and wants to sit in the lineup waiting for time on my workbench rather than working.

BTW, is your home Freedom, Wyoming? Home of the Casull? I lived in and up above Kelly for many years.

Well there is always the crank seals possibly at fault. Pressure vac test? And or maybe faster yet when it starts idling really high,spray some wd 40 or alike (I dont like brake cleaner or carb cleaner as they swell and destroy rubber) around the crank and intake areas and see I'd she bogs down or revs up typically they'll bog down on wd40 etc. If there is a leak

 

[link]

Well there is always the crank seals possibly at fault. Pressure vac test? And or maybe faster yet when it starts idling really high,spray some wd 40 or alike (I dont like brake cleaner or carb cleaner as they swell and destroy rubber) around the crank and intake areas and see I'd she bogs down or revs up typically they'll bog down on wd40 etc. If there is a leak

EDIT: I might have responded to the wrong post and wrong person last night, but I guess I liked your post Alan. I had my beer googles on

I removed what I wrote because I think I must have been responding to something in my head rather than to any specific problem at hand.

Those pictures are my 038/381 Farmertec that I use with a Granberg minimill and a 20" solid bar to mill spruce. Why exactly I posted them I do not now.
Anyway, I might add that with a sharp and narrow mill chain (Stihl) it has plenty power for the wood in the pictures.

 

[camel2019]

I also have some of these race fuel cans which vent fine also but are a pain without the hose neck bender piece. I also added a shut off valve t0 my can

I got a mix of old steel cans(both softer and the round things) and old and new plastic vented cans for the small stuff and I have both steel and plastic 20l jerry cans(skinny tall style) my 2 old military steel cans have been regulated to used motor oil.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

If you have to adjust the low rpm carb.adjustment excessively to get it to run, or/and it seams to be abrupt and shut down at the threshold - you got a leak.
It may be the crank shaft seal, or the carb booth joint, or the impulse tube. If all is tight, idle rpm is smooth adjustable all the way down.

The Farmertec seals are alright to begin with, so are the crank bearings. I like to use some silicone gasket seal at the carb booth just to be sure.

From everything you have posted, you have a leak. Dont blame it on the chinaman, it wont get you closer to heaven.
You can put a 10k dollas carb on that thing, it wont make a difference if you cant sort out the leak.

I have spent quite a lot of money on my 038/381 build, some parts just didnt do my quality inspection, but the carb is still farmertec.
View attachment 977797
View attachment 977798

Yes sir I agree. I have built a few 660 clones and used a bunch of there other parts and my 660 absolutely rips with the china carb on it. I got my 660 kite from neotec but same thing basically. I liked there orange amd grey color scheme but the blue amd white was on a pretty nice sale so that's what I ended up with.

 

[link]

660 is nice for milling if you have a proper mill with an aluminum rail for the saw, or a large mill attachment with a long and heavy bar.
If you use a lightweight Granberg minimill with a 20" bar thats a little heavy to hold up with your left hand, no counterweight.

 

[9050lx]

Is it running yet?

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

660 is nice for milling if you have a proper mill with an aluminum rail for the saw, or a large mill attachment with a long and heavy bar.
If you use a lightweight Granberg minimill with a 20" bar thats a little heavy to hold up with your left hand, no counterweight.
View attachment 977799

Yea I've not yet been able to afford a mill and also am not sure what mill to buy exactly so if you have experience which it seems as if you do I'm all ears man I appreciate the advice. I originally built the 660 just for fun I do cut alot of firewood and some felling and so on but I do want to get a mill for the saw and be able t0 mill some lumber. I'm sure not on a huge scale but idk just another hobbie that yields material for other hobbies

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Is it running yet?

I regret to inform you I didnt ever get a chance to run it yesterday and today I'm stuck at the steel mill. Changing some even bed wheels so I wont get to today either. Probably not until Saturday or sunday. It does run tho I just havent been able to test it out properly

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

660 is nice for milling if you have a proper mill with an aluminum rail for the saw, or a large mill attachment with a long and heavy bar.
If you use a lightweight Granberg minimill with a 20" bar thats a little heavy to hold up with your left hand, no counterweight.
View attachment 977799

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Is it running yet?

Yes sir I think its mostly straightened out. I got to run it yesterday a little and it was very rich when I first started it up.. must be ,y last tune was too rich at any rate leaned it up a little and she cut flawlessly for like 20 mins but not the true test yet imo. Its back to 30 degrees and snow here in New york so that sucks. Was 70 like a week ago. Hate this weather

 

[Zaedock]

L on my Holtz G660 is touchy. A slight tweek of a turn can get boggy. Tuning after the muff mod took some time, but now it's wicked pissah and pulls a 32" Stihl ES bar like a beast.

 

[Boredrob]

Thanks again for the carburetor idea it was half the price of the walbro wsvn after buying cobalt drill bits that I'll use again. So thanks again! I will keep updates with how it acts today I plan to try and test her out. I hope shes good to go.i also just acquired a brand new to me 2020 husqvarna 440 I know a tiny homeowner saw but just thought I'd share. Got it for close to peanuts. Super clean brand new Oregon bar amd chain couldn't complain

I have a husqy 440 I got with cash back on something from lowes. I haul it on my atv all the time. Cuts great. Perfect for an atv/fence line/tree in the path saw. Light too. After that I bought a 142 for next to nothing for dad to keep on his.

My other saws are a 357xp/ 550xp/ several 372 xp/ 266/and 3120 xp / 440 and 660 stihl/ and a few other cheaper stihls I don't recall the numbers on. The 440 Husqy is none of those that's for certain. But it's been great and perfect for the atv.