Fast Hydraulic Log Splitters

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have used rental machines before and thought all the homeowner machines to lack one feature or other that I wanted on a splitter. My suggestion is do the math and work backwards from there. How much tonnage do you think you really need. How fast to you want the cycle time to be. Tonnage is a factor of bore size and pressure. Speed is a factor of how much oil it takes to move your piston in and out. HP is a factor of flow and pressure. You decide what you want or need and work from there. Plenty of online calculators to come up with the numbers you are trying to achieve. The biggest problem usually is in the amount of money one has to spend.

As for my recommendation, I would stay more practical, I would build a multi "T" wedge design similar to what Eastonmade uses. I would go for the 28gpm two stage pump and probably a 4.5in bore cyl with the biggest rod I could find. I would make sure the cyl ports where at least 3/4in id. I would want a log lift for lifting and staging rounds to be split. I would also want a boom mounted remote controlled winch with log tongs, not that screw in thingy, to pull large rounds up to the log lift. If I was splitting wood on site I would want the wedge mounted on the tongue end of the splitter so splits could be loaded on the truck as they are split. If I was splitting in a dedicated splitting area, I would want the wedge on the opposite end from the tongue so splits could fall off into a pile. Probably want a tongue on each end of the splitter so I could use the splitter in either situation. I would step up the engine size to the next size above the recommended hp for the size pump I was using and I would also use a autocycle valve to free up the hands for moving wood while the cylinder cycles.


For the most part I think the highest rating on splitter parts is 3000 psi. Have seen some rated at 2500 psi. So IMO get everything rated for 3000 psi and set your valve right at 3000 and no less. Cylinder size and the pressure will make a big difference. My first no-name valve which could not be adjusted was set at 2200 psi. It worked good but wore a groove in the detent for the auto return. Changed to a Prince which was factory set at 2750 and I adjusted to 3000 on my guage and that little bit helped on those crotchy oaks and elm. Like Mudd said about a 4.5" cylinder will keep you moving OK without the extra loss of going to a 5 " cyl.
 
Man, Some of y’all really put time and effort into splitting wood lol. My tractor supply 30 ton has a 10.5 second cycle time and has split everything I’ve thrown at it so far. I even took some nasty hickory from a buddy that his 27 ton troy built wouldn’t bust and it didn’t even slow mine down. His unit is much lighter due to it not having a full beam under it. His splitting area is flat and it’s easily moved by hand. My splitter is way heavier but that’s what the tractor is for.
 
I have a countyline 40 ton that has a 9.5 sec cycle time. It's plenty fast. However fast can be unsafe. Ask me how I know. Had my splitter been a little slower I just might still have my finger that I just lost splitting wood a few weeks ago. Fast is great but comes with safety risk that even a pro like me can get hurt on. I split 100+ cords a year and have for the past 15 years, so I'm no rookie and I still got hurt. For a lot of guys speed is priority one and I get that but it's not a race. Same with running a saw. Many people want a fast cutting saw, but cutting a few sec faster per cut doesn't really save you much time. Slow down and be safe and enjoy the work.
 
Man, Some of y’all really put time and effort into splitting wood lol. My tractor supply 30 ton has a 10.5 second cycle time and has split everything I’ve thrown at it so far. I even took some nasty hickory from a buddy that his 27 ton troy built wouldn’t bust and it didn’t even slow mine down. His unit is much lighter due to it not having a full beam under it. His splitting area is flat and it’s easily moved by hand. My splitter is way heavier but that’s what the tractor is for.
Some folks here make a lot of (ha ha) money selling firewood. I have given away way more wood than I have ever sold. Usually if I sell a load, its to someone that is able, but just to lazy to gather the wood themselves. If I was ever to get into the business of selling firewood, I think it would make sense to build the most efficient machine I could afford. I would want a certain amount of speed without me having to handle the wood multiple times and without all that lifting and grunting that goes into using a store bought splitter. I think the manufactures are catching on to that fact also. I know Eastonmade wasnt the first person to built one of those box T type wedges. I saw to many videos of home made designs way before Eastonmade became a company. What I have also seen in the last couple of years are companies like Timberwolf and a few other jumping on the band wagon. I guess if I was going to sell firewood, I would be on the lookout for a full blown processor. Since I dont sell firewood and dont have any plans of getting into the firewood business, my homemade splitter will out work me all day, everyday, so being in a hurry isnt something I need to do. I do plan on upgrading my current splitter, there is always room for improvement, but since It will probably be a year or two before I go back into heating with wood, I'll just keep watching youtube videos and reading about splitters on this site. In the meantime, I will just keep scrounging parts as I find them. Never let a bargain pass and a bargain isnt a bargain if you dont need or cant use it.
 
I got one of these Gorillabac log lifts and it has worked great. It sure saves the back and saves me time nooddling big rounds down to a smaller size. It is weight limited and could use a redesign with heavier components though. But it does what it's advertised to do. I opted for a 100 amp deep cycle battery so I don't have to recharge it as often.
Talk to Fred the CEO and tell him I sent you 260-249 9420. He is a very nice guy and he has called me several times in the past year asking me how I like the lift. It also comes with an optional reciever hitch attachment so you can load heavy stuff in your truck.

 
I got one of these Gorillabac log lifts and it has worked great. It sure saves the back and saves me time nooddling big rounds down to a smaller size. It is weight limited and could use a redesign with heavier components though. But it does what it's advertised to do. I opted for a 100 amp deep cycle battery so I don't have to recharge it as often.
Talk to Fred the CEO and tell him I sent you 260-249 9420. He is a very nice guy and he has called me several times in the past year asking me how I like the lift. It also comes with an optional reciever hitch attachment so you can load heavy stuff in your truck.


Or just flip the splitter 90°.
 
I have a countyline 40 ton that has a 9.5 sec cycle time. It's plenty fast. However fast can be unsafe. Ask me how I know. Had my splitter been a little slower I just might still have my finger that I just lost splitting wood a few weeks ago. Fast is great but comes with safety risk that even a pro like me can get hurt on. I split 100+ cords a year and have for the past 15 years, so I'm no rookie and I still got hurt. For a lot of guys speed is priority one and I get that but it's not a race. Same with running a saw. Many people want a fast cutting saw, but cutting a few sec faster per cut doesn't really save you much time. Slow down and be safe and enjoy the work.

As with most things there seems to be a good balance as to too fast and not fast enough. I am planning on a new splitter build that is intended to be very fast. The biggest issue has always been at least for many years was an efficient log lift with a corresponding table to work from. Here having the room and access is also a concern. Level ground is not readily available so have some thing that is easy to maneuver is also important. As with saws I pretty much stopped using saws under a 100 CC because I want it done now. Most of the wood I cut is 18'' to 60'' which takes some HP. Thanks
 
Some folks here make a lot of (ha ha) money selling firewood. I have given away way more wood than I have ever sold. Usually if I sell a load, its to someone that is able, but just to lazy to gather the wood themselves. If I was ever to get into the business of selling firewood, I think it would make sense to build the most efficient machine I could afford. I would want a certain amount of speed without me having to handle the wood multiple times and without all that lifting and grunting that goes into using a store bought splitter. I think the manufactures are catching on to that fact also. I know Eastonmade wasnt the first person to built one of those box T type wedges. I saw to many videos of home made designs way before Eastonmade became a company. What I have also seen in the last couple of years are companies like Timberwolf and a few other jumping on the band wagon. I guess if I was going to sell firewood, I would be on the lookout for a full blown processor. Since I dont sell firewood and dont have any plans of getting into the firewood business, my homemade splitter will out work me all day, everyday, so being in a hurry isnt something I need to do. I do plan on upgrading my current splitter, there is always room for improvement, but since It will probably be a year or two before I go back into heating with wood, I'll just keep watching youtube videos and reading about splitters on this site. In the meantime, I will just keep scrounging parts as I find them. Never let a bargain pass and a bargain isnt a bargain if you dont need or cant use it.

Mudd some interesting observations. If I knew how hard it was to earn money selling wood maybe my thinking would be different. I have increased my profit margin at least 50% in the last few years, but it is still tough. Here in California I would think the prices are the highest in the land, but still really difficult. A couple of days ago a lady ordered wood to be delivered and stacked on her porch. She was only will to pay $40 for stacking however yesterday told her go some place else. In the past would have been temped to eat the extra time and deliver wood. Since age is a factor will not bend any more, I am seeing a higher demand with higher prices so maybe there will be an actual profit some day. Thanks
 
Mudd some interesting observations. If I knew how hard it was to earn money selling wood maybe my thinking would be different. I have increased my profit margin at least 50% in the last few years, but it is still tough. Here in California I would think the prices are the highest in the land, but still really difficult. A couple of days ago a lady ordered wood to be delivered and stacked on her porch. She was only will to pay $40 for stacking however yesterday told her go some place else. In the past would have been temped to eat the extra time and deliver wood. Since age is a factor will not bend any more, I am seeing a higher demand with higher prices so maybe there will be an actual profit some day. Thanks
I just had a interesting conversation with a young guy today that is just getting started in the tree business. He mentioned he was loading wood yesterday and hurt his back. Well, all I can say is to you young fellers is take care of yourself now, because when you get old and broke down, its to late to start thinking about working smarter instead of working harder. Now, this young guy was looking for a better way to load logs. It seems his business is to cut and remove trees. I am not ready to call him a arborist yet, he has a lot to learn. The logs he was lifting and loading on a trailer where 8ft logs and he was selling the logs for pulpwood and the mill wouldnt take anything less than 8ft long. He had two logs, I didnt ask the size, I just know two oak logs 8ft long would be heavy. The mill gave him $15 a ton for the logs. When he said that I asked what he got for a load of firewood. Well, it seems he dont do fire wood. I told him that those two logs properly processed would have brought him $100 a pickup truck full. Really, he said, He wasnt aware that it could be worth that much. I had help from a couple of experience firewood sellers explaining to him that getting paid to remove the trees is just the first part of fooling with wood. I used a local timber cutter we both knew as an example. The guy logs full time for a living and he has a tandem truck with knuckle boom and charges $400 a load to bring a load of logs for firewood. Many, including myself buy wood from this guy. I buy for myself, but others buy to process and resell. We explained that instead of getting $15 for a couple of logs, that he would be better off to stock pile those logs and process when in between cutting jobs. It saves the $400 a truck load right off the top. The young guy already has a 16ft trailer he is loading the logs on, all he needs is a way to load the logs and a place to unload them for processing. Now I know a full time tree guy often doesnt have the time to fool with the firewood part of the business and there might come a time when this guy doesnt either, but if you are getting paid to cut and remove the tree, why not haul it home and save it for lean times.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top