Finally getting a new saw

[Evanrude]

Nice saw you've got there. Dont worry about it too much, get it in some wood and cut. Sparks are normal, yes. The starting issue was probably just because its new - freshly rebuilt saws usually take me 10-12 pulls on the first start. Your warranty will cover any issues, thats why you wanted a new one right? I'll take it off your hands and refund your money if you're just gonna shelf it scared for what may happen :msp_biggrin:.

The manual shouldn't be no different. Turn it up for more oil, down for less.

 

[groundup]

Well done

Rep sent

 

[memory]

Nice saw you've got there. Dont worry about it too much, get it in some wood and cut. Sparks are normal, yes. The starting issue was probably just because its new - freshly rebuilt saws usually take me 10-12 pulls on the first start. Your warranty will cover any issues, thats why you wanted a new one right? I'll take it off your hands and refund your money if you're just gonna shelf it scared for what may happen :msp_biggrin:.

The manual shouldn't be no different. Turn it up for more oil, down for less.

Yeah I know, I worry too much. I just need to get out there and cut wood and be happy.

Well done

Rep sent

Thanks for the rep.

There may be an issue with the oiling system. After just running it for a few seconds just to try it out, I noticed there is a puddle of oil under the saw where it was sitting. The chain is getting oil on it, you can see it fly off at the end and I can feel it on there as well. I wouldn't think there should be any oil at all. From time to time, I will put the saw in the cab of a truck and I will not be doing that if it leaks oil.

Also, when first running this thing, the winter/summer setting was set on summer. Me or the dealer did not notice this. The saw was not run long at all on this setting. How exactly does this work?

One other thing, it looks like there is some kind of adjustment on top of the saw to the left of the decompression valve. What is that for? I looked in the manual and did not see anything about this and the dealer didn't know either. Look in the last pic and you will see what I am talking about.

 

[Evanrude]

Saws leak bar oil sometimes. Especially when ran new out of the wood. There's no sawdust under the clutch cover to absorb it, that's why its so obvious. It just means its oiling sufficiently. Don't forget, you have a high output oiler, for that size bar, its probably safe to have it turned down.

The screw at the top is to remove the hood of the saw, not an adjustment.

Summer/winter setting just keeps the carb from freezing in very cold weather. I pretty much never take mine off summer. It gets below 10 and I'm not cutting, never had a problem. The winter setting circulates warm engine air around the carb, summer blocks it and draws fresh air.

You're good to go. That's one fine saw. Now get out and give er hell. Oh, and don't be one of those guys who thinks they have to break it in under half throttle. Just don't be winding it out when the bar is out of the wood. If you're cutting, throttle down!

 

[memory]

I will probably turn it down, it looks like it is past the E setting. According to the book, it could run out before the fuel runs out if it is past the E setting. That is something that I will just need to play with to find the right setting. Just curious as to what setting everybody else with the 441rcm runs at with a 25" bar.

I thought there would be more than one screw to remove the hood.

I am guessing it will not hurt anything to run in on the winter setting while cutting in the winter.

When I first read that last sentence, I was thinking wtf. Why would I be cutting wood at anything less than full throttle? Then I realized what you meant.

 

[Stihlman441]

Rep for you.
You have made a very good choose with this saw,i have put many many hours on these 441C R models.With the oiler under the saw these is an adjustment screw to change the amount of oil out put,with a 25'' bar i would say set it about 3/4 the way to max and see how you go.
These saws respond very well to a muffler modd,depends if you wont to keep your warranty i suppose,could always get another muff and modd that one.
Any questions ask away.

Andrew

 

[Evanrude]

Haha yeah, I guess that last sentance could be confusing now that I look at it. I meant keep it full throttle.

Yep, asking questions is how you learn. If nobody asked questions, there wouldn't be forums like this.

 

[memory]

Rep for you.
You have made a very good choose with this saw,i have put many many hours on these 441C R models.With the oiler under the saw these is an adjustment screw to change the amount of oil out put,with a 25'' bar i would say set it about 3/4 the way to max and see how you go.
These saws respond very well to a muffler modd,depends if you wont to keep your warranty i suppose,could always get another muff and modd that one.
Any questions ask away.

Andrew

Normally, I have always known the oil should run out at about the same time the fuel runs out. Does that still hold true? At that setting, do you have to stop and put more oil in it before the fuel runs out? With my luck, I would forget to add more and run it without oil since I am used to filling the oil up when I fill the fuel up.

Yeah, I really don't want to do any mods to it right now because of the warranty, maybe in the future. But since I have never ran a ported saw, I think I will be happy with the power it has. Although if I ever did run a ported saw, I may have every saw of mine ported. I just wouldn't know where to start or who I get to do it. Just curious, on average how much would it cost to get my saw ported?

Thanks for the rep.

Now I just have to find some wood to cut to try this beast out. Hopefully I will get a phone call and will be able to do some cutting this weekend with one of my other cousins.

Evanrude, I figured you meant full throttle.

I read something about calibrating the 441cm in another thread on here. It says to let it idle for just over a minute with the choke on without touching the throttle. http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/186485-3.htm

Is this something that is necessary? I did it for a few seconds and could hear it idling up and down. It just seems weird to run it with the choke on.

 

[Stihlman441]

With the oiler adjusted to 3/4 open you will find that you will run out of fuel before oil.
The calibrating thing will not do any harm,i only normally do it if i do a muff modd or its not runing nice.
If you do it as you are doing it will idle crap,smoke,cough,splutter thats normal.

 

[memory]

According to the book, I will run out of oil before fuel if it is past the E setting.

I am going to get another chain or two for this saw and will probably end up getting a stihl chain. But while looking at the chains on Baileys, I could not find any 25" chains, the closest was 24". Is 24" considered to be the same as 25"? Both have the same amount of drive links.

Also, anything wrong with buying chains off of ebay? I can get 2 chains for about $23 a piece which I think is going to be cheaper than any local store. 2 Pack Stihl Oilomatic 25" Chain 36230050084 3623 005 0084 33RSC84 33 RSC 84 | eBay

I find this to be strange but the fuel and oil tank on this saw is not that much bigger than my JD CS56 according to the specs. They are less than an ounce from each other. I would think a bigger saw made to run bigger bars would have bigger tanks. Maybe that is a testament on much fuel the 441 sips or maybe how much fuel my JD uses.

 

[Stihlman441]

Only one to find out the oil thing try it,to much is better than not enough.
Stihl is the only one that call a 25'' bar a 25'' bar as long as the drive link count is right your all good,chain is cheap enough on your ebay.Over here Stihl chain is about 55 cent per drive link :msp_sad: and we use .063 gauge.

 

[terryknight]

nice saw. i will throw in some comments.

i run a 362 with a a25' bar most of the time. it does fine. granted it is ported. i wouldn't run it with a longer bar than 25 though. never going to run a stock saw again. I don't have a 441, but i have a 044 and it just sits around now the 362 is much lighter. i buy most of my chains from ebay they are much cheaper, i also only buy "stihl" chains, i think they last longer. i've never had a problem with them.

 

[memory]

Ok, is there a difference between the 33RS and the 33RSC chains? The chain that is currently on my 441 that came with the saw is a 33RS.

Question about getting a saw ported. I don't plan on doing that right now because of the warranty but what does it cost to have a saw ported?

 

[terryknight]

Ok, is there a difference between the 33RS and the 33RSC chains? The chain that is currently on my 441 that came with the saw is a 33RS.

Question about getting a saw ported. I don't plan on doing that right now because of the warranty but what does it cost to have a saw ported?

rs = rapid super
rsc = rapid super comfort

i paid 250 and shipping one way to get my saw ported. most charge about 250

 

[deepsouth]

Simple, if oil runs out first, under fill the fuel tank....

And 84 DL chain is the same however a manufacturer wants to measure their bar.

 

[memory]

I know I just need to get out there and cut. I am really anxious to see how much wood I can cut on one tank of fuel. Since there is some kind of computer on this, would I be better off storing this inside to keep it out of the freezing temps? The saws are kept inside under a roof out of the elements but it is an open building so it still gets cold.

Parts of me still think maybe I should have bought the 460. I just hope I don't regret this in the long run.

 

[Gkiesel]

You will not regret it one bit. My stock 441 rips. I cannot see the advantage of the 460 unless you are really felling big West Coast style stuff all day. My 441 pulls a 28 inch bar no problem. I store mine in the unheated garage. Starts everytime. It does usually take 7-8 pulls when cold in the morning, but after that it starts 1st or second pull. Turn up the oiler all the way for the long bar. I usually undefill the gas tank, so I don't run out of bar oil before the gas tank is empty.
HAVE FUN, George

 

[memory]

You will not regret it one bit. My stock 441 rips. I cannot see the advantage of the 460 unless you are really felling big West Coast style stuff all day. My 441 pulls a 28 inch bar no problem. I store mine in the unheated garage. Starts everytime. It does usually take 7-8 pulls when cold in the morning, but after that it starts 1st or second pull. Turn up the oiler all the way for the long bar. I usually undefill the gas tank, so I don't run out of bar oil before the gas tank is empty.
HAVE FUN, George

Right now I do not regret it at all but lets hope years later, I don't regret it. You say to turn the oiler up all the way, I don't think I need to since I have the HO oiler. I don't see any reason I would need to run anything bigger than 25".

Do you have any idea how much wood you can cut on one tank of gas?

I haven't had the chance to really test this saw out yet but am really anxious. I have used it a little but it was really small stuff, nothing to show its true colors.

Also, what should the compression be on this saw? Next time I run it, I will check the compression. I just got done testing my JD CS56 and it was 140 psi.

 

[Gkiesel]

I don't really worry about. I'm always bummed when I've got nothing else to cut. Last week I topped and bucked a 20" 40+ ft. tall oak that Sandy had pushed over. That took one full tank. The saw really needs a good number of tanks run thru it before it comes alive.
Don't know the comp. ratio off the top of my head. G