asb151
ArboristSite Guru
pbtree said:
Absolutely!!!
Firewood cutting tips
- Thread starter troopr1954
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Absolutely!!!
SawTroll
Information Collector
Wolfcsm said:
Bad idea in my book - and I definetely have a bad back!
When the log is on or close to the ground, I often rest the left elbow on the left leg to releave my back. It works!
When cutting logs to firewood length, I usually use a saw-buck.
Thank you to all who have pass good wishes on returning from Iraq. My son should be home before Thanksgiving - making it a great Thanksgiving.
Hal
Hal
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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You mean your son is over there too? Wow. If so, our thanks to him as well.
Jeff
Jeff
troopr1954
ArboristSite Lurker
SawTroll said:Bad idea in my book - and I definetely have a bad back!
When the log is on or close to the ground, I often rest the left elbow on the left leg to releave my back. It works!
When cutting logs to firewood length, I usually use a saw-buck.
As usual, lots of excellent tips from you guys.
Sawtroll, can you please tell me what a sawbuck is...better still do you have a photo?
Thanks,
Troopr1954
Yes, this time my son was in Baghdad while I was in Tikrit. He had a year long tour though. In 2003 he was in Afghanastan while I was in Iraq. My wife just loves this job.
Hal
Hal
jp hallman
ArboristSite Guru
I find a 32" bar to be perfect for me. I can stand straight up like BillyBob suggests. I'm 6'0". A longer bar also balances a big saw. I run the new 575xp and a few 372xp's. If the log is on the ground cut 3/4's of the way through to keep your tip out of the dirt. When you're done doing all of the first cuts, roll the log over and finish cutting by sticking the bar back in the kerf and lift up on the saw. It's plenty safe cutting with the tip of the bar. Use the bottom of the tip, not the end. Start your cut on the far side of the log, stand straight upright, and draw the saw towards you by shifting your weight, not with your arms. Kickback usually happens when you hit a log behind the one you're cutting on. Feed the saw into the log this way and you'll be safe.
I'm a pro, but I had to start somewhere too! Just keep a firm grip on the saw.
I'm a pro, but I had to start somewhere too! Just keep a firm grip on the saw.
From what I have read, if given the choice, you should begin your cut with the portion of the bar closest to the operator. And place the bumper spike (dog) into the wood. (Which I do, but this is with 25" diameter logs and larger typically.)
And I have read that the upper 45 degrees of the end of the bar is the most dangerous portion of the saw for kickback.
And if you are cutting a "pile of wood on the ground" and cutting a log which is close to you and there is another log a few inches behind that log, then there is a BIG danger of that upper 45 degree portion of the end of the bar accidentally coming into contact with that log behind the log you are cutting, and then a nasty kickback may happen. (I don't do this.)
Then when limbing and using the end of your bar, I have read that it is better to use the upper portion of the bar and cut away from you. If you cut towards yourself and exert pressure towards yourself, then it is possible that the end of the bar may continue towards yourself and cut you. (I cut away from myself.)
What I do...
When there is a pile of wood I need to cut up, I move a single piece out into the open so there are no logs behind what I am cutting. Or I will remove debris from behind the log if is a large log which I can't move. Of if two large heavy logs are close together, I will cut the log behind first or if possible cut the ends of one of the logs so I can roll one of the logs away (to avoid accidentally touching the log behind with the end of my bar). If there are several logs in a pile and I can't move any of them clear, I will not cut them.
Also while cutting, I am standing to the left of my bar and have my thumbs wrapped under the handles.
I was taught some of this stuff by a logger friend (who has been logging for 15 years). He will stand straight up and buck a piece of wood on the ground with his long bar pointing downward. (A real back saver.)
Also what I do (with a log on the ground) to avoid cutting into the ground and damaging the chain, is to cut most of the top portion of the log, then roll it over. Or if a large log, make my cuts on the top, then cut the center of the log all the way down (need to bend over for this) so I can roll the two sections over.
I am open to suggestions. But keep in mind there are some big heavy logs around here, so if I were to try to lift these up, then my back would really be hurting!
And I have read that the upper 45 degrees of the end of the bar is the most dangerous portion of the saw for kickback.
And if you are cutting a "pile of wood on the ground" and cutting a log which is close to you and there is another log a few inches behind that log, then there is a BIG danger of that upper 45 degree portion of the end of the bar accidentally coming into contact with that log behind the log you are cutting, and then a nasty kickback may happen. (I don't do this.)
Then when limbing and using the end of your bar, I have read that it is better to use the upper portion of the bar and cut away from you. If you cut towards yourself and exert pressure towards yourself, then it is possible that the end of the bar may continue towards yourself and cut you. (I cut away from myself.)
What I do...
When there is a pile of wood I need to cut up, I move a single piece out into the open so there are no logs behind what I am cutting. Or I will remove debris from behind the log if is a large log which I can't move. Of if two large heavy logs are close together, I will cut the log behind first or if possible cut the ends of one of the logs so I can roll one of the logs away (to avoid accidentally touching the log behind with the end of my bar). If there are several logs in a pile and I can't move any of them clear, I will not cut them.
Also while cutting, I am standing to the left of my bar and have my thumbs wrapped under the handles.
I was taught some of this stuff by a logger friend (who has been logging for 15 years). He will stand straight up and buck a piece of wood on the ground with his long bar pointing downward. (A real back saver.)
Also what I do (with a log on the ground) to avoid cutting into the ground and damaging the chain, is to cut most of the top portion of the log, then roll it over. Or if a large log, make my cuts on the top, then cut the center of the log all the way down (need to bend over for this) so I can roll the two sections over.
I am open to suggestions. But keep in mind there are some big heavy logs around here, so if I were to try to lift these up, then my back would really be hurting!
jp hallman
ArboristSite Guru
Billy_Bob said:
Well Billy, most of the stuff you talked about you "read" about. I've done it. I'm not saying it's not dangerous, I'm saying it's not impossible to do so safely if you're paying attention to what you're doing. There's a saying in the woods."Thoughts of Home and Mama will KILL a Man". Sure it's not as safe to use the end(tip) of the bar as the butt. However, a skilled man can safely use the tip if he keeps his mind on the job at hand. And a firm grip on the saw. I like the fact you stated you keep your thumbs where they're supposed to be. Every logger worth his salt can bore into a tree without getting himself or others hurt, or damaging a saw. It's the same technique used cutting firewood on the ground. It has to be learned and the ONLY way is to do it.
Stand up straight, use your whole body to move the saw, be aware where the tip of your bar is AT ALL TIMES. Soon it'll be second nature and you'll live a long, prosperous, healthy logging life. And you'll be a good hand to boot that knows how to get a job done, and done safely and quickly.
Perhaps I'll have to make a video and show you how it's done...better yet! Come on out and I'll put you to work! You'll be working faster and safer in no time at all and your back will thank you for it. Then when you get home and your back ain't hurting...you can have those thoughts about Mama you've been having to suppress all day and chase her around the house! Don't thank me BillyBoy, just buy me a bottle of "George Dickle", white label please.
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firewood cutting stand
This piece of iron was photografed by my dad at a German 'green/forestry/landscaping' show. He put a sigarette package on it for size if he wants to remake it. (the dont like you to messure the things to duplicate
This piece of iron was photografed by my dad at a German 'green/forestry/landscaping' show. He put a sigarette package on it for size if he wants to remake it. (the dont like you to messure the things to duplicate
jp hallman said:
So far as nasty things happening with chainsaws, I would prefer to just "read about it" and not gain any personal experience with these things!
And so far as the work offer... Gee thanks, just what I need. More work!
jp hallman
ArboristSite Guru
Billy_Bob said:So far as nasty things happening with chainsaws, I would prefer to just "read about it" and not gain any personal experience with these things!
And so far as the work offer... Gee thanks, just what I need. More work!
So Billy, you're afraid of work and a-feared something might happen to you..?
Nothing "nasty" might happen except you might learn something new.
Just keep reading about it. <snicker> Mama and me will talk later.
The problem with sawbucks, stands, jigs etc. is that every one requires lifting the log, limb, chunk whatever into it. Pretty will limits them to small stuff unless you have a powered lift of some kind. Also leaves that pesky last piece that needs cutting but nothing to keep it from moving around.
Back when I did build my own multi-compartment saw buck (no pictures of it tho). U shaped brackets (iron) spaced 16" apart down two 2x6 vertical. My brackets were sized to the saw bar lenght, i.e., 20" bar, made them 14" inside by 14" tall, open top U. Brackets held with 1/4" lag screws on each end into the 2x6. Allowed folding up the rig and hanging it on the woodshed wall when done.
Worked great. Load with as many limbs as it would hold, cut 1/2 way between each bracket. Hazard was watching not to hit the iron bracket with the saw. Wood was held firmly, able to cut all the way, even the last cut which most sawbucks don't allow. I haven't used it in years as I do all the 'chunking' now as I work up the tree in situ. Still have the U brackets tossed in a corner somewhere.
Harry K
Back when I did build my own multi-compartment saw buck (no pictures of it tho). U shaped brackets (iron) spaced 16" apart down two 2x6 vertical. My brackets were sized to the saw bar lenght, i.e., 20" bar, made them 14" inside by 14" tall, open top U. Brackets held with 1/4" lag screws on each end into the 2x6. Allowed folding up the rig and hanging it on the woodshed wall when done.
Worked great. Load with as many limbs as it would hold, cut 1/2 way between each bracket. Hazard was watching not to hit the iron bracket with the saw. Wood was held firmly, able to cut all the way, even the last cut which most sawbucks don't allow. I haven't used it in years as I do all the 'chunking' now as I work up the tree in situ. Still have the U brackets tossed in a corner somewhere.
Harry K
Sometimes I can get firewood out from my forest in the form of 6-7 meters logs and in home logs will be set into pile some ca 20m3 in the pile. It is convient to cut all the pile into pieces as it stands not using any sawbuck or another tool
16gauge
ArboristSite Operative
Wolfcsm said:
Having served about 15 years in Uncle Sam's Canoe Club I must add my thanks to you and your son, and add a comment: Your wife deserves a medal! :angel:
She sure does, thanks.
Hal
Hal
I made a bucking crib about a month ago. I had visions of perfectly cut firewood with less backache and longer lasting chains. The Crib worked ok but found it is really alot less work to just buck it up where it lays. I did install a 20" bar on my Husky and really like that. I plan on going to a 24" bar for my next bucking saw. One of the reasons I made the crib was to keep my chain sharper longer. In that respect it does work but for alot of wood just buck it up on the ground. Get one of those lifting spikes as seen on the first page.
SawTroll
Information Collector
max2cam
ArboristSite Guru
I cut and split all my firewood out in the woods and use the cut partway thru then roll the log method.
When my back starts hurting I will use the elbow on knee bracing method. Also try to stand evenly on both hind legs and not put stress on one leg. Also try to let the saw do the work and not press down.
Sometimes I get down on my knees to cut when the back starts hurting. Doing that for a few minutes takes the knot out of the back. At least it works for me.
When my back starts hurting I will use the elbow on knee bracing method. Also try to stand evenly on both hind legs and not put stress on one leg. Also try to let the saw do the work and not press down.
Sometimes I get down on my knees to cut when the back starts hurting. Doing that for a few minutes takes the knot out of the back. At least it works for me.
My son called this morning - he is back on US soil!
Hal
Hal
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