Firewood cutting tips

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I cut and split all my firewood out in the woods and use the cut partway thru then roll the log method.

When my back starts hurting I will use the elbow on knee bracing method. Also try to stand evenly on both hind legs and not put stress on one leg. Also try to let the saw do the work and not press down.

Sometimes I get down on my knees to cut when the back starts hurting. Doing that for a few minutes takes the knot out of the back. At least it works for me.

Exactly.
Django
 
max2cam said:
When my back starts hurting I will use the elbow on knee bracing method. Also try to stand evenly on both hind legs and not put stress on one leg. Also try to let the saw do the work and not press down.


yuk yuk yuk yuk. :laugh:
 
firewood cutting

I cut and sell firewood and I use a Bow Bar. I bought mine while I was in Virginia in 1976. The Bow is designed to be used while standing up and is used by pulp wood cutters. Most people have never seen or heard of one, to see what I am talking about go to Bailey's and find a bow bar. Their's are for the Husky.

It has a "foot" at the bottom of the bow that holds the log in place as the chain pulls against it. The bar is sort of an elipical circle and once you learn the feel of it, you can cut through the log without hitting the dirt. I have used it long enough that I cut through the wood and without cutting through the bark on the dirt side.

One big advantage is that since the bar is circluar, the part of the bar that the chain travels on is only about 1 1/2 inches, that allows the bar to keep cutting even if the log above it pinches together.

I'm sure this sounds wierd, but once you see a picture of the bow bar, it will make sense to you. They are expensive, around $119 and they are probably more dangereous to use. The bar I have will only cut a 13 inch diameter log with one cut, the new ones will cut a 14 inch log. The 13 inch bar takes an 81 link chain, so it takes a saw that will handle a 24 inch conventional bar.

One thing I've added this year is to replace one of the bolts that hold the foot to the bar with one that is an 1 1/2 longer. I put a 1/4 plastic pipe over the bolt and cut it off at 16". That way I can make uniform length firewood which customers seem to perfer.

Jerry
 
Jerry Bratten said:
They are expensive, around $119 and they are probably more dangereous to use. Jerry

I've read somewhere on AS (I believe by Gypo) that these bow bars kick like mules. So be careful.
Never have seen one myself though.
Roland
 
Wolfcsm said:
My son called this morning - he is back on US soil!

Hal

Hal, you may have heard that many europeans do not agree with the US presence in Iraq. I however personally think you guys are doing a great job and deserve full respect. Glad your son is back.

PS. The french politicians now fully understand too what is meant by terrorist behavior !
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by max2cam
When my back starts hurting I will use the elbow on knee bracing method. Also try to stand evenly on both HIND LEGS and not put stress on one leg. Also try to let the saw do the work and not press down.

jokers said:
yuk yuk yuk yuk. :laugh:

Yeah, the front legs are holding the chainsaw. If they were down on the ground where they started out there wouldn't be all this back pain, etc. The 4 legged Centaur with arms (half-man/half-horse) ain't such a bad idea considering.
 
Bow Bar

I've read somewhere on AS (I believe by Gypo) that these bow bars kick like mules. So be careful.
Never have seen one myself though.
Roland

They will kick if you touch a limb anyplace around the top curve of the bow. You have to be aware of any overhanging branches or you could be eating the bar. However, it is the ideal bar for cutting firewood. It is much quicker than trying to lift a log or making a partial cut and then rolling the log

Jerry
 

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