Fixin up not that old saws-Saw Gurus

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clearance

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Long time poster, first time asker....I have run saws for over 20 years, Husky and Stihl mostly, 020 size to 100cc. I can clean them, change plugs, starter cord, and sharpen pretty good. I have always got new saws and kept the old ones for parts, not even all the old ones. So, I now have a few, 2-266XP, 1-371XP, 1-2101XP that I have ran and 2-2100s I got at garage sales for $10, not running, I just couldn't leave them. I was thinking of rebuilding the 371, the 2101 and one of the 266 saws. Haven't torn them down, they are just old and lack power after years of work. My mechanical skills are not great, I have changed water pumps and starters in trucks, simple things like that. My questions are, how hard is it to rebuild these saws, how much special equipment would I need, and is it better just to use these saws for parts?
 
Long time poster, first time asker....I have run saws for over 20 years, Husky and Stihl mostly, 020 size to 100cc. I can clean them, change plugs, starter cord, and sharpen pretty good. I have always got new saws and kept the old ones for parts, not even all the old ones. So, I now have a few, 2-266XP, 1-371XP, 1-2101XP that I have ran and 2-2100s I got at garage sales for $10, not running, I just couldn't leave them. I was thinking of rebuilding the 371, the 2101 and one of the 266 saws. Haven't torn them down, they are just old and lack power after years of work. My mechanical skills are not great, I have changed water pumps and starters in trucks, simple things like that. My questions are, how hard is it to rebuild these saws, how much special equipment would I need, and is it better just to use these saws for parts?


It's not hard. The only tools needed are a screwdriver and allen wrenches. Buy a P/C kit, make sure it has a new base gasket and tear into it!!!
Take most of the plastic off the saw, I think on my 350 I just took the top (airfilter cover off). Pull the muffler, loosen the carb tube from the cyl, and take out the four bolts holding down the cylinder. When reassembling the pro saws cyl. is tappered so no ring compressor is ussually needed.
Seriously, it's that easy.
 
Clearance, in most cars, changing a water pump is harder than redoing a saw. You have all the skills you need. All you have to add is a whole bunch of ziplock baggies to put parts in, and a Sharpie marker to keep track of what they are. A digital camera can be handy too so you can keep track of what its supposed to look like.

Saws are incredibly simple. I'm still waiting to finish one up, and thinking of the next one.

Mark
 
You will have no problem. The most important thing you can do is to take your time, which I am sure you have already learned. I have broken more parts trying to rush a job, and then takes longer to fix my additional problem.
 
Really depends on what the saws need and how much $$$ you want to put into them. Not familiar with Husky but Stihl is very proud of their parts and charges for it. I would guess if you purchased a ms200t as individual parts it would probably cost 3 times the price of an assembled saw. If the saws are simply worn down and have a worn piston/cylinder but a good crankcase, Baileys can sell you an aftermarket piston and cylinder for about $100 and it is not that hard to change over. If you have to start replacing seals and bearings and crank shafts the cost and time and skill can go up. Really have to figure out what the saw is worth and how much parts are needed. There are a few sources of good used parts available also and that can make the job worthwhile also. I like to tinker with the saws during the winter months when work slows down, I find it theraputic.
 
not that ive finished any of the saws ive started fixing up, or ever changed a water pump... but saw tinkering isnt that hard. expecially on the (not that old) saws you have. plenty of used, and a fair few new parts available.

good place to start would be the husky website, you can search for ipl's for most of their saws made in the last 25years.

there are also a fair few workshop repair manuals available online, some linked from the links sticky at the top of the chainsaw page. posted by everyones favourite nordic troll if my memory serves.


get on it!
 
Saws are pretty easy*. Tear the top end off of one (about 20 minutes if you aren't cleaning as you go) and see what it looks like. Assess the parts situation and make the decision.

By "easy", I mean the mechanics of it all. Sure, there can be a lot of little gotchyas, but there's a bunch of people at AS willing to help you out along the way. A digital camera goes a long way in this regard... If you've replaced a water pump, you are ready for spinning wrenches on chainsaws.
 
As the others have mentioned "it's not hard", but... the complexity rises when "throwing parts" at it doesn't solve the problem.

On old saws like the 2100, first check the ignition.. If it's bad, find one at a decent price before putting money into the saw.

If you really want to fix saws.. Invest in a good vac and pressure testers, an ultrasonic cleaner, two torque wrenches, some decent tools for pulling cranks, bearings etc, a nice convection oven for pizza and case heating, and above all, get some good technical resources.... on an old saw, don't ever assume that how you received it was correct...

Oh .. and... some skills and tools to fix all the messed up threads... Got two 2100/2101's on the bench right now - 7 bad threads.. three requiring plugging and re-taping (the rest took timesert - not cheap for the kit - inserts).
 
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HUH??????? which ones? Certainly not Stihl... In any case, a ring compressor is less than $4.00

Well.................. I have been corected on this more than once tonight already!!!
I used two small screwdrivers and made it work with the tapper I had.
What a long strange trip today has been!!! Bear with me a bit, OK?
 
Clearance, you got an eye for the fixer uppers. All the saws you mentioned are really worth the attention. I find that I've had the most consistent enjoyment bringing a few projects along at once... I tend to use more discipline in waiting for good prices on parts and I've always got a little somethin' to do in the workshop.

Two 2100s for $10! That is STUNNING good luck.:clap: :clap:

As far as skills go, it sounds like you've got the right stuff. I'm pretty average in terms of skill and I've done ok so far. Its VERY satisying running a saw you built up yourself!

Keep us posted!! :popcorn:
 
Clearance, you got an eye for the fixer uppers. All the saws you mentioned are really worth the attention. I find that I've had the most consistent enjoyment bringing a few projects along at once... I tend to use more discipline in waiting for good prices on parts and I've always got a little somethin' to do in the workshop.

Two 2100s for $10! That is STUNNING good luck.:clap: :clap:

As far as skills go, it sounds like you've got the right stuff. I'm pretty average in terms of skill and I've done ok so far. Its VERY satisying running a saw you built up yourself!

Keep us posted!! :popcorn:

Actually they were $10 each, a very common saw in these parts back in the day, how could I go wrong. Thank you to all who helped here, I kept seeing people here who fixed saws up, all the shops tell me the same "It costs $500 to rebiuld that saw, why not get a new one" So I will give it a try.
 
As the others have mentioned "it's not hard", but... the complexity rises when "throwing parts" at it doesn't solve the problem.

How unusual, but I have to agree with Lake ;) . Fixing small problems can be very easy, but there can be a lot of issues with these elder saws, such as ignition problems, bad crank seals, etc. And then it takes quite some experience and time to get the problem solved, not to mention the difficulty to find decent replacement parts.


If you really want to fix saws..

1. Invest in a good vac and pressure testers,
2. ultrasonic cleaner
3. two torque wrenches
4. some decent tools for pulling cranks, bearings etc,
5. a nice convection oven for pizza and case heating,
6. and above all, get some good technical resources.... on an old saw, don't ever assume that how you received it was correct...
7. some skills and tools to fix all the messed up threads...

I unfortunately have not all the above (only 3, 4, 6 most of the time ,7) but am looking for a good vac tester, which is very difficult to find over here.

would like to add also :

- a carb pressure tester (which I use all the time)
- an impact screwdriver (to loosen up wacked or tight screws)
- a multimeter (V,A, Ohms).
- some discipline to keep parts together while dismantling a saw ; it makes reassembly much easier.
 
not that ive finished any of the saws ive started fixing up, or ever changed a water pump... but saw tinkering isnt that hard. expecially on the (not that old) saws you have. plenty of used, and a fair few new parts available.

good place to start would be the husky website, you can search for ipl's for most of their saws made in the last 25years.

there are also a fair few workshop repair manuals available online, some linked from the links sticky at the top of the chainsaw page. posted by everyones favourite nordic troll if my memory serves.


get on it!

Here is the website with the workshop manuals.

Sorry to say, the 2100 link contains something totally different.......:confused: .

The IPL library on some of Huskys websites (at least the US, UK and Norwegian ones) goes all the way back to the early 1970s - about 35 years.
 
it is simpal as pie

You sound pretty mechanical it wont be too difficult . also take photos and use the baggie trick it works better than hunting for misplaced parts. i know i am missing parts for severals saws:hmm3grin2orange: go too Baileys and buy a set of Wiha tools they will make the job go easier. also buy a good compression tester and a spark tester. Take your time and read up on the saw reapair book info it will save hours of head scritchin:dizzy: :help: :chainsawguy:
cheers mate
 
you CAN do IT

I've been a mechanic for a highway dept. for over 25 years and work on everything from chainsaws to plowtrucks, pavers, loaders & dozers. What do you think I like to work on best? chainsaws & small engines. Easy, lightweight parts, & work at a bench with a stool if you want. Sometimes (most times) it does take some patience. Sounds like you easy have the ability fix up your old saws.
 
Clearance, if I can woods port a Husky 350, drinking heavily, in the middle of the night (1am-3am) put it back together and make it run better than it did. I think you can handle this. Good point?
 

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