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ive tried rope strops but i find they tangle round my main line easier when they're hanging down
 
Chronic said:
I don't like the idea of relying on one lifeline, and I don't like having to re-position the lanyard every 2 foot. Does that make sense ?
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Sure does, except I'm more prone to just trust the rope, apply the flipline for positioning and always when making a cut.

Dan mentions the swivel snaps as a good feature, I consider the swivel snap a MUST.

KF is set up almost exactly like I am, except where he has an oval link, I have a delta. Where he has a Gibbs I have a micrograb. Also, that twisted clevis... i can see the reason you use that, but for me, I want to be on or off in one flat second with one hand without even having to look. That means a biner in that position.

Chronic has eliminated the semi-permanent steel link, making him able to remove the flipline instantly and altogether from the saddle, a feature of versatility I always enjoyed when using the dual-snap version.

Chronic is using a triple lock Petzl Am'd. Right now I use the William, same biner pretty much, but more pear-shaped than oval and a little bit bigger. I'm sure you've noticed, Chronic, how it flips around backwards, and you have to turn it back around to apply it. A leather or steel trap for all of 50 cents will solve that minor annoyance. I've used a dozen different biners in the adjuster position and don't have a view on which is best, though if I had to rate one and one only, it would be the Kong aluminum triple lock with the captive end, with the thimble removed and a stainless steel trap installed. That one was really nice.
 
KentuckySawyer said:
Why do you want a steel core line anyway? If you're climbing once a week, you're probably not getting into situations where you really need a steel core. A regular piece of rope is a lot cheaper and I would think, easier to climb around a tree with.

I've never used a steel core, but think I might aquire one someday. Do any of you other guys use a steel core FL often?
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I didn't want to own up to this initially... but I've just gotten into using a Silky Zubat-which I think is a GODSEND- and I've nicked my flipline twice, not while cutting but while manuevering the saw, and I've got to nicks in my line that I'm not very happy with. My intent with the steel flip line is to buy one flip line and be done with fliplines for years.
 
RedlineIt said:
rnd,


The closest I'll get to flaming you, you lousy ????ed hobbyist, is to insult your intelligence with an obvious statement - I hope you are not spurring trees for pleasure!



Tell me again why you want one?



RedlineIt
Click to expand...

Spurring trees for pleasure? HA! No no, it may be a measely sum but I get paid and its usually a "We don't want this tree to fall on our _____" type of job. So not so much for pleasure.

As owned up to... my Zubat keeps making not so happy fuzzies on my rope flip line.
:)
 
I'd like to say in a cursory statement that you guys rock. I thought that I was gonna get flammed for being a amateur climber or something to that degree. I appreciate all the insite with the lines, and now I've got some stuff to think about. But the more I read about this, I'm definitely going to spend the money on the steel core flipline. As I said before I'm using a rope with a prusik and three quick links on it. I can't stand that thing. As soon as you put pressure on it the prusink cranks down on itself and it takes an act of congress to adjust it.

Sorry for calling it an ascender, I've got a slight bit of background in using this type of gear for rope rescue in the Fire Department.

As far as the type of harness I use...

One Floating Dee Extra Wide Back Saddle

0801036
Size


This saddle provides easy maneuverability and back support. Features an extra wide 6" waist back. The waist back is foam filled and lined with soft brown oil tanned top grain steer hide leather to increase back support and comfort. Two nylon utility straps (each with a chrome brass snap and a 2" nickel plated ring) help keep tools close at hand. Features 2" nylon leg straps with slip-on pads that provide extra comfort. Also available in a 2-Dee style. Saddle backs feature five rounded nylon loops that hold up to 15 lbs. of accessories and two nylon utility straps with chrome brass 200 snaps and 2" nickel plated rings that keep tools close at hand.

Thanks again for all of the help!

P.S. If you're wondering the sn is random acts of broccoli. I think I may have been breathing too many saw fumes that day...
 
This saddle provides easy maneuverability and back support. Features an extra wide 6"

Are you sure that you are not Vanna White????
 
c'mon Eagle, be nice to the newcomers.

Welcome to the site, Broccoli man.

And you, TreeTom. Glad to have ya around.
 
So with all the guidance of you grizzled types.... here's what I'm looking at. Thoughts?




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Petzl Tri-Action AMD

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Aluminum Medium D

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10' U.S. Rigging 5/8" Steel Core Flipline

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Petzl Macrograb - 5/8" & 3/4" Rope

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I like 1/2" flipline. Lighter in weight. Micrograb, also lighter in weight. 8-foot, also lighter in weight.

8 foot because it goes around my waist twice, terminating on the left side, keeping it wound around my belly and upper hips, and out of the array of biners, slings, devices and lanyards below it. An 8 footer goes around most anything you'll climb in Pennsylvania. For something bigger, like blocking down a monster trunk, you can clip a sling onto the end of the flipline to extend the length for that unusually large and juicy period of excellent tree cutting in a tight and challenging zone. Consider being on an extension ladder for this part. Just know that the very infequent time when you need a full 10' length of flipline, it's that easy to extend it.

If you're big around in the middle, a 10 footer may be the better choice. If you're the size of John Paul Sanborn, you may want the custom length 26 foot flipline.
 
Tree Machine said:
I like 1/2" flipline. Lighter in weight. Micrograb, also lighter in weight. 8-foot, also lighter in weight.

8 foot because it goes around my waist twice, terminating on the left side, keeping it wound around my belly and upper hips, and out of the array of biners, slings, devices and lanyards below it. An 8 footer goes around most anything you'll climb in Pennsylvania. For something bigger, like blocking down a monster trunk, you can clip a sling onto the end of the flipline to extend the length for that unusually large and juicy period of excellent tree cutting in a tight and challenging zone. Consider being on an extension ladder for this part. Just know that the very infequent time when you need a full 10' length of flipline, it's that easy to extend it.

If you're big around in the middle, a 10 footer may be the better choice. If you're the size of John Paul Sanborn, you may want the custom length 26 foot flipline.
Click to expand...


Eight footer I can live with.... everyone keeps talking about weight... is the steel flip line really THAT much worse? Granted I've never been in a tree for longer than six hours, but even then it was other parts of me that were tired, and I don't think the weight of the stuff I had with me had anything to do with it.
 
I use a 10' (us safety) steel core with a non-swivel snap. I like it. Having a non-swivel snap is not a problem at all. Also use a petzl micro grab. Its a good set up. For me having that extra 2' is nice.
 
Flipline

My flipline is a double locking williams biner with a friction hitch and micro pulley.Another double locker instead of a snap on the other end.Lent my wire core to a "hacker" some time ago...havent asked for it back .My flip is about 6meters long and can be easily moved to my centre malion and double as a short climbing line. I likr that kind of versatility.

" To climb the Tree of Life you have to get past the big guy with the flamin sword"
 
Horses for courses as the Brits say. I like a 12-14 foot 1/2 inch hard lay 3 strand for my lanyard. Stiff enough to flip but not so stiff and heavy as wirecore. Rig it wit a V.T. and a brass swivel slack tender and the whole thing is cheap, long wearing and adjustable with one hand.
 
Just make sure that there is somewhere in the system that can be cut with a knife if ever you need rescue! Don't hard connect a micrograb to the wirecore with a karabiner only, use a short nylon strop in there or use a friction hitch instead. Can you imagine needing rescue and someone has to bring bolt cutters to get you out?
:cool:
 
As I was sitting in my intro to theatre class this morning, and as I had nothing better to do, I was thinking about the set up. If I use a beaner on the micro/macrograb, and a locking snap and or beaner on the eye hook... can I not use it as a two in one much like this POS?:



" 10' 2-in-1 Lanyard

The 1/2" 2-in-1 lanyard is a useful alternative to carrying a secondary flipline. The three clips allow the wearer to move safely over branches and obstacles without ever being unattached and without the burden of carrying a second flipline. Three-strand construction adjusts with built-in prusik loop. Pretty slick. "


And I noticed that of those of you that were nice enough to furnish pictures didn't have any sort of nylon strap to "cut" like Bermie suggested. I would assume (no disrespect meant, Bermie) that you could meerely undo the beaner. Comments?
 

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