For you guys that trailer your splitter...how in the heck do you get it secured?

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Quick background, I have hauled all manner of equipment as a profession truck driver. I have had to take special classes and get special certification to haul certain things in order to prove that I know how to secure a load.

The real trick with securing something on wheels is triangulation. What I mean by that is rather than simply throwing a strap over and cranking it down till it is tight like you can with hauling lumber or pipe you must create triangles with your straps that squeeze the load to that it can't roll. Car haulers have it easy because they can simply throw a web over the tires or chains over the axle so that it cant roll, thus loosening the straps. If you have anchor points on your trailer right below the tires of your splitter you could do the same thing, but the chances of that are not good. So what you need to do us strap around the axle pulling it forward and to the tongue pulling it backward. This creates at triangle because if the load tries to move forward the tongue straps pull it back and down into the floor of the trailer. Same thing happens if the splitter tries to roll back, the axle straps pull it forward and down so that it can't go anywhere. In order to prevent lateral movement (side to side) use 2 straps on the tongue pulling back and to opposite sides. This will triangulate the lateral movement as well. Using this method you will need four straps but unless a strap breaks or an anchor point snaps your splitter will never move.

This was the point I was trying to make earlier. It doesn't matter whether you use cheap or expensive straps if you don't imobilize the load. If one strap is longer then the other then vibration or bumps will cause the load to find its center which will loosen the longer strap.
 
Oh, you've started a fight. We are talking about a #500 pound (maybe) splitter not a piece of heavy equipment. Chains and 5 ton rated straps are WAAAAY overkill. Working load limits for straps are 1/3 of their break strength so a #10000 2" strap is good for a 3500# load. a 1" inexpensive strap is plenty for tying down a log splitter, especially if you are using Two or four of them. Even the cheap HF straps have a 1200# break strength and a 400# working load

I would never haul anything that I didn't consider secure. I tie stuff down that most people wouldnt even worry about because I'm thinking about what might happen in a panic stop or evasive manuver. The recommendations to tie down a log splitter like it was an excavator are ridiculous. You safety nazis can feel free to tie things down however you like but don't try to tell me that a log splitter in a trailer needs $500 worth of tie downs to be safe.

Drive safe:msp_razz:

The recommendation to mount a receiver in the trailer is a good one. I could see that being useful for more than just tying down a splitter. Winch mount comes to mind.

The vitriol in that statement is astonishing. I'll refrain from commenting further.
 
TSC here sells Erickson 2'x27' heavy duty straps on sale every few weeks for $10.00. If you think these are expensive straps and overkill then please stay off any roads my family or I travel on. I use 2 to secure my ztr mowers. 4 to secure my bike. Today on my car hauler I hauled 15 wood trusses that were 24' long, they were secured with 4 of these straps. Never moved and I never endangered other people on the road.
 
The vitriol in that statement is astonishing. I'll refrain from commenting further.

You should have seen it before I edited it. I took exception to you implication that the way I chose to secure loads in my trailer is implicitly unsafe. A little math shows that to be untrue.

Saying "I'm not trying to start a fight" doesn't exempt you from having somebody call BS.

If you're really not looking to start a fight then you might try phrasing your statement more like: while 1" straps might technically be ok I feel more comfortable with something a little more heavy duty. Moralizing somebody's actions,on the other hand, is a good way to start a fight.

See, I don't really care about starting a fight. I'm more concerned about being right :msp_rolleyes: it is hard to tell online with text but most of the "vitriol" is tongue in cheek.
 
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And according to the MTO here, I'm not properly securing my load the way I do it. Have to tie off 4 points, even loader buckets if not attached to my hoe have to have 4 straps, chains on the trailer. I lost a 16' ladder off a trailer one time, when I turned around and went back I kept dreading seeing it sticking out of a windshield, lucky for me some 75 year old guy and his wife were trying to stuff it in the back of their minivan to take it home.
 
Oh, you've started a fight. We are talking about a #500 pound (maybe) splitter not a piece of heavy equipment. Chains and 5 ton rated straps are WAAAAY overkill. Working load limits for straps are 1/3 of their break strength so a #10000 2" strap is good for a 3500# load. a 1" inexpensive strap is plenty for tying down a log splitter, especially if you are using Two or four of them. Even the cheap HF straps have a 1200# break strength and a 400# working load

I would never haul anything that I didn't consider secure. I tie stuff down that most people wouldnt even worry about because I'm thinking about what might happen in a panic stop or evasive manuver. The recommendations to tie down a log splitter like it was an excavator are ridiculous. You safety nazis can feel free to tie things down however you like but don't try to tell me that a log splitter in a trailer needs $500 worth of tie downs to be safe.

Drive safe:msp_razz:

The recommendation to mount a receiver in the trailer is a good one. I could see that being useful for more than just tying down a splitter. Winch mount comes to mind.

noone said the cheap straps wouldnt work, the whole chain+binders, 2inch straps thing came from a durablity stand point! i useto own some 1 inch straps also, but they dont last! why would i want to keep buying something that i know doesnt last?? i use 2 inch straps because i know theyre going to last and i know when i need them theyre going to work, and because most of the stuff i haul is up over 3000 lbs., but i use them on everything regardless of weight, unless its too heavy then i pull out the chain and binders
 
I take safety and secured loads very seriously. I lost a load of lumber pulling onto a state highway from a rural side street once when I was 16. There was a little grade leading on to the state road and out went the lumber. I never loaded a truck so fast in my entire life. Nobody was hurt or even close but it taught me a lesson.

A little common sense is usually enough to keep you out of trouble. A couple extr straps never hurts either.
 
noone said the cheap straps wouldnt work

That's not entirely accurate. The OP thought the cause of his loose load was cheap straps. My post that you quoted was more in response to Camr's suggestion that using 1" straps was likely to cause property damage or bodily harm.

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with using heavier duty straps. I suspect that switching to heavier straps won't solve the OPs problem though. A 1" strap should be sufficient to hold a splitter in a trailer. If they are getting loose it is probably how they are being used, not a defect with the straps themselves. If that is the case then switching to heavier straps won't help.
 
You should have seen it before I edited it. I took exception to you implication that the way I chose to secure loads in my trailer is implicitly unsafe. A little math shows that to be untrue.

Saying "I'm not trying to start a fight" doesn't exempt you from having somebody call BS.

If you're really not looking to start a fight then you might try phrasing your statement more like: while 1" straps might technically be ok I feel more comfortable with something a little more heavy duty. Moralizing somebody's actions,on the other hand, is a good way to start a fight.

See, I don't really care about starting a fight. I'm more concerned about being right :msp_rolleyes: it is hard to tell online with text but most of the "vitriol" is tongue in cheek.

You call it BS. I call it being prudent. If that qualifies me as a "Safety Nazi", then I guess that's a badge I'll wear with pride.
 
I didn't intend to cause a fight here guys. I don't have chains and binders as I don't haul anything that needs it. Better straps will happen...but that shouldn't be my problem. This last time I just cant figure out how they loosened. I had 4 straps on it all pulling toward the trailer corners. Makes no sense to me.
 
Pull up, secure to 2"Ball and Receiver..
Yes, safety chains do get hooked before departure..
 
Its not really fighting, more spirited discussion. :msp_biggrin:

Go back and read post#20 because I think that's where your problems are coming from. Four straps are tough to get right. If the triangles you make with the straps aren't equilateral then it will seem like everything is immobilized but when you hit bumps the load will shift diagonally in the trailer loosening up the longest leg of the strap. Heavier straps or chains won't change this.

That's why I like using one strap in a V shape because as you tighten it has no choice but to be equal. You might try fastening the front with two straps loosely and then pull it straight back with one strap to tighten everything up. This should give you equal length legs in the front. Then you could strap the back corners for safety.
 
If the straps are are attached at the top of railings at four corners the straps will be horizontal and will not do a good job of securing the load. The straps need to be pulling downward at an angle to the floor.
 
If the straps are are attached at the top of railings at four corners the straps will be horizontal and will not do a good job of securing the load. The straps need to be pulling downward at an angle to the floor.

DING DING I think we have a winner. I have hauled things countless miles with cheap straps (including splitters) I have never had one come loose. I have had stuff shift because I didn't do my part but I can't blame that on the straps.
 
Pull up, secure to 2"Ball and Receiver..
Yes, safety chains do get hooked before departure..

i just have a hitch ball on my trailer but i like the idea of having a receiver to make it more versatile with a winch, vise etc......
 
If the straps are are attached at the top of railings at four corners the straps will be horizontal and will not do a good job of securing the load. The straps need to be pulling downward at an angle to the floor.

I had them running down to the sides of the trailer to my stake pockets.

Will need to figure out how to get a ball or receiver on this thing.
 
PowerTyes

But I don't think the strength is the issue. Stiffness and stretch of cheapies may be contributing, but I +1 on the comments above about rigging directions. I think the load is moving and releasing tension.

If this is a commonly hauled splitter, then make it a bit more set for hauling. Weld some single chain links at appropriate points on the trailer and on the splitter. Eyebolts can work, but get goot lifint eyes with shoulders, not the cheap threaded hardware store ones. They cannot take a bending load at the threaded body.
Slip a carabiner or snap chain link through the webbing loop on each end of the tie straps. Clip those to the chain links on the splitter and trailer, instead of using the hooks. Then they can't come off the rings like a hook can do.
Each tie point needs to be a triangle as noted above,. Even better is a pyramid of three straps pulling in all three directions at the same point. Triangles don't change shape, but rectangles can move all over with the straps still tight.

Many miles of hauling motorcycles and lawn care equipment where quick on or off is important.
 
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