Grease hole on sprocket tip bars...

[old CB]

When I first began running chainsaws (1976) I greased that bar-tip sprocket every time I fueled up, because the manual said I should. For years I greased the sprocket, because the manual said I should.

Now, cutting full-time commercially, running several saws, I have not greased a bar sprocket in years. Never had a problem. The bar oil does the job quite well.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Some loggers have told me that they would like to have the option of adding grease to Stihl bar tips. Here's one that I replaced:

 

[Philbert]

Grease would not have helped that tip.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Grease would not have helped that tip.
Philbert

Any idea what would have? I could pass that info. along to the destroyer.

 

[Philbert]

Any idea what would have? I could pass that info. along to the destroyer.

Remember that this is a consumable / wear part: like tires on your car / truck. They will last longer if treated well, and not as long if you make a lot of fast starts and stops.

I see what looks like corrosion on the sides. Edges look like they have a significant burr.

Oregon trouble shooting guide suggests loose tension for the dished areas? Lots of cutting with the tip?


Philbert

 

[old CB]

@Wood Doctor: a lack of grease did not hurt the bar tip you show above. If lubrication was lacking, the bearing would wear out. But that's not does not appear to be the issue on your customer's bar.

In your photo you'll notice a dip between 7" and 9" on the ruler. That dip is on both sides of the bar tip, which tells you that the user rotated his bar occasionally so that the wear point was equal on both sides of the bar. That dip occurs because the chain is getting heavy use at that point. Nothing else could account for it.

In my work I do a lot of limbing, removing small limbs with the end of the bar, and over time my bars develop a similar dip (although my bars grow a dip slightly more elongated and a little further back toward the power head).

 

[old CB]

I just read Philbert's post more closely, and see that loose chain could also cause the dip. But in my experience (since I don't run a loose chain) it's heavy limbing that's the cause.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I must admit that what Philbert said is likely the case -- a loose chain. I have watched this experienced logger run 36" bars with big Stihls for years. I have warned him many times that his chains are running too loose. It is a common problem among loggers cutting big stock. The chains stretch, sometimes much faster than they realize. They do not pause to tighten them. Time is money. And, they often claim that a tight chain overheats and "freezes" up the bar sprocket. So, they would rather run it too loose.

So, the bar suffers, and the first part that suffers the most is the bar tip. One year, this same logger handed me seven bars that needed new tips. I fixed four of them with new tips. The rest were damaged so far beyond the tip that it was useless to replace the tip. They often are locked up tight, almost welded closed. You have to wonder if grease on the sprockets would have lengthened the life just a tad.

These bars run about $100 apiece, and loggers figure that's the cost of doing business. Running too tight and they lose, running too loose and they lose. Checking the tension from one cut to the next all the time on a 36" bar with a 114 drive link chain, and they lose time, and that's lost money also. Simple as that. Whoever said that logging was an easy business? Not me.

 

[Philbert]

Your experience with them still demonstrates the value of replaceable sprocket nose ('RSN') bars. 4 out of 7 bars returned to service.

Philbert

 

[mike-s]

Has anyone tried using antisieze? All my bars don't have grease ports so no test from me.

Anti-seize usually has metal in it (aluminum or copper), which isn't good for bearings. It provides some lubrication, but is made for anti-galling and anti-corrosion purposes, for use on fasteners which don't move.. I can picture it working somewhat on spring shackles, where only minor lubrication is needed (and where the thickest grease you can find would probably work better). But, not on anything with close tolerances which is spinning fast.

Anti-seize is water proof, can withstand high temperatures and clings well.

There are lots of greases with similar properties.

 

[mike-s]

Some loggers have told me that they would like to have the option of adding grease to Stihl bar tips. Here's one that I replaced:

Tip sprocket looks just fine, and nothing in that picture points to an issue with its bearing. The rails, OTOH... Bad bar oil, or not enough. (or loose chain, as already mentioned)

 

[The Lorax]

Running 36" bars the oiler would be working pretty hard,if there is no oil then there is no cushioning effect or lubrication.
You will always see wear at those points at the tip due to chain whip, and also at the heel of the bar where the chain first encounters the bar after passing around the sprocket.
These points of wear are accelerated if the chain is loose.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I have two new Stihl Rollomatic bars with out holes and am freaking out about it. I really want to drill some holes to put grease in them, but have not yet. Thanks

 

[CR888]

Don't drill into Stihl hole-less noses...I've tried it and its not as simple as drilling a hole. Their is thin metal sheet discs under the bar metal that seal the bearing. IMO its not worth it, I bought some NOS ES bars that are fairly old and they have grease ports. But Stihl did away with them, they do know a thing or two about saw bars and really the sealed noses work and last just fine. Grease ports DO introduce sand and other abraisive contamination into the bearing. I am a grease the bar guy but that's driven more by nostalgia of me liking to pump grease into a little hole with my little micro USA made grease gun, its not based facts.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Anyone ever notice that Stihl in fact does sell a little grease gun with a needle nozzle for bars that accept them? I guess they figure you will use it for something else.

 

[Philbert]

Don't drill into Stihl hole-less noses... Their is thin metal sheet discs under the bar metal that seal the bearing.

I was going to mention this! Aside from introducing drill chips into the bearings, the holes in those thin discs would have to align with the hole in the bar to let the grease through! Oregon has eliminated the grease holes in some of their newer, laminated bars too.



Philbert

 

[Ted Jenkins]

My grease gun is full and just anxious to put some grease into a bar. Thanks

 

[HarleyT]

I was going to mention this! Aside from introducing drill chips into the bearings, the holes in those thin discs would have to align with the hole in the bar to let the grease through! Oregon has eliminated the grease holes in some of their newer, laminated bars too.

View attachment 823953View attachment 823957

Philbert

Won't Stihl warranty that?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Won't Stihl warranty that?

Possibly not with drill chips....... but might be worth a shot if you snap the tip of the drill bit off in the nose tip after finally burning your way though the outer skin and the bit catches on the bearing?

 

[TheTone]

Grease holes are great for pumping in some bar oil. Also squirt some bar oil into the sprocket when the chain is off. I believe it softens up any crud and will help spin it out when the chain is spinning. Also, no chance of blocking the flow of oil to the sprocket.