Great deal on a Craftsman Riding Mower

[Okie]

I backed out the brake tensioner nut, thinking that might slacken the clutch engagement. Will it work? Don't know yet. The mower is up on jacks and it has been raining something fierce all morning and is likely to continue into this evening. Lots of Thunder&Lighting. Quite the show.

I briefly also noticed that brake spring and the brake and clutch rod all the same rod with the spring on the rod with jammed locknuts for the brake adjust ONLY.
The brake on this one will slide the rear tires if going fast and thromp on the brake, then just slightly release the brake/clutch pedal and it pops the neck and just going from memory as the brake is let off that same rod engauges the transaxle on the pivot lever on side of transaxle. (therefore no clutch adjustment other than weaken the spring or hope for some eventual motion drive belt slippage.

Might be a critical adjustment between having a brake and getting a softer clutch. When I seen only brake adjustment mentioned in the manual and no clutch adjustment I was also working on another mower and never went back to try and back off on the spring or find a weaker spring or ??????????

 

[user 122190]

I briefly also noticed that brake spring and the brake and clutch rod all the same rod with the spring on the rod with jammed locknuts for the brake adjust ONLY.
The brake on this one will slide the rear tires if going fast and thromp on the brake, then just slightly release the brake/clutch pedal and it pops the neck and just going from memory as the brake is let off that same rod engauges the transaxle on the pivot lever on side of transaxle. (therefore no clutch adjustment other than weaken the spring or hope for some eventual motion drive belt slippage.

Might be a critical adjustment between having a brake and getting a softer clutch. When I seen only brake adjustment mentioned in the manual and no clutch adjustment I was also working on another mower and never went back to try and back off on the spring or find a weaker spring or ??????????

Yeah, I'm being lazy on this mower. Selling season is about over. Also this mower is really nice. Best of the bunch. Haven't had but one other that was a V-Twin (the John Deere), and this one is in excellent condition, engine wise.

Leaking tire is pissing me off. Might have to order a couple of fronts. Looks like this one maybe a keeper. I'll put it to work in helping me get my firewood ready for winter, then come spring time, I'll see about what to do with this mower.

 

[Okie]

Slow leaking dry cracked lawn tractor tires. I quit using slime in my own lawn tractors.
They would usually still leak when the mower is stored for awhile and then a mess cleaning the tire and rim to install a tube after slime is used. Fix a flat will rust rims fast..
One good straight stem inner tube 15x6x6 such as Carlisle is pushing the $20 area. Lots of inner tubes now days that are not any good mostly the lesser priced China versions.
I repair my own tires, installing tubes and fixing flats. Just got through installing two 20x10x8 and one 15x6x6 on one mower to stop leaks. tires had good thread, just dry cracked due to previous owner letting the tires set on ground flat. Almost $60 not counting the sweat labor of installing.

Them 6 and 8 inch tires can be a bugger to break down the bead for installing a tube on the deep dish rims.
I made my own break down tools for 4 inch to 14 inch rims.

 

[djg james]

....
I made my own break down tools for 4 inch to 14 inch rims.

I'd like to see them.

 

[user 122190]

Slow leaking dry cracked lawn tractor tires. I quit using slime in my own lawn tractors.
They would usually still leak when the mower is stored for awhile and then a mess cleaning the tire and rim to install a tube after slime is used. Fix a flat will rust rims fast..
One good straight stem inner tube 15x6x6 such as Carlisle is pushing the $20 area. Lots of inner tubes now days that are not any good mostly the lesser priced China versions.
I repair my own tires, installing tubes and fixing flats. Just got through installing two 20x10x8 and one 15x6x6 on one mower to stop leaks. tires had good thread, just dry cracked due to previous owner letting the tires set on ground flat. Almost $60 not counting the sweat labor of installing.

Them 6 and 8 inch tires can be a bugger to break down the bead for installing a tube on the deep dish rims.
I made my own break down tools for 4 inch to 14 inch rims.

Tires are inexpensive enough, but installing them can be a pain. Did all four on another machine back in May(?). No fun.

https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Tur...6&qid=1661433977&sprefix=tire+,aps,281&sr=8-3

 

[Okie]

I'd like to see them.

Just a hint. About making bead breakers for small lawn tractor tires/rims 4 inch to 12 inch area.

I used my cutting torch and welder and sacrificed some donor rims (cut out the center of the donor rim, for example a 8 inch deep dish rim to break down a 6 inch rim tire, 10 inch rim for a 8 inch rim tire. Welded some 1 inch heavy wall square tubing and 1/2 inch plate on top of the opened up rim and use a jack to press this down down against the smaller tire rim. It just fits over the edge of the tires rim so as to press on the tire.
On some of the small rims that are of the deeper type (tire needed to be pressed further to break the bead I took some 3/8 steel plate a cut the circle just little larger than the rim/tire and welded square tubing and 3/8 plate on top of the cutout circle.
On the tough ones I sometimes have to apply little bit of ATF around the rim/tire while in the press and just let it set about couple minutes for the bead to break down. Also sometimes have to massage the tire with a large hammer while in the press if the rim is rusty inside and the tire is old and cold.

I also have a air/electric (old model) John Beam that I can use on 12inch through 16 inch rims if the center hole of the rim is 1 1/4 inch dia or more so as to mount to the machine.

Not a fun job, especially when the rim is found to be rusty inside and needs cleaned/re-painted then new tube or tire installed. (and I only do the tire flat fixing for myself. (so I can have more money to spend on my hunting and fishing equipment)

"Hunting and fishing is not a matter of life and death, It's more important than that"

 

[Okie]

Tires are inexpensive enough, but installing them can be a pain. Did all four on another machine back in May(?). No fun.

https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Tur...6&qid=1661433977&sprefix=tire+,aps,281&sr=8-3

Right about better off cost wise/ labor wise just to install new tires vs inner tubes. Old tires that are dry cracked or have thorns will sometimes just ruin new tubes fast.
AND Carlisle is a good brand of both tires and tubes.

I can sometimes find 12 inch ATV tires for less price than Lawn tractor tires. (but usually have to settle for a aggressive tread pattern)

 

[user 122190]

Right about better off cost wise/ labor wise just to install new tires vs inner tubes. Old tires that are dry cracked or have thorns will sometimes just ruin new tubes fast.
AND Carlisle is a good brand of both tires and tubes.

I can sometimes find 12 inch ATV tires for less price than Lawn tractor tires. (but usually have to settle for a aggressive tread pattern)

Yeah, and here is Walmarts price of 2 for $34. The Hi-Run is a brand I have used before, not junk... --

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hi-Run-L...QYv9oh&athancid=null&athena=true&athbdg=L1100

 

[SS396driver]

Was going to sell our old lawn tractor but I ended up giving it to a kid my neighbor knows . He works 40 hours a week and does a side hustle of mowing lawns he is using a push mower now. He does this to pay for community college. He doesn't want debt so he works his butt off . So I gave him the tractor should make his life easier .

 

[user 122190]

Seems that the grabby clutch symptoms are going away. Or maybe my foot work is better. IDK.

It is now up for sale. Wrong time of the year to be selling a rider, but who knows. I haven't bought a mower yet that I wasn't willing to keep as my own. Maybe it will sell next spring, or maybe the market's supply and demand will stabilize and this Craftsman will be my keeper.

I've been putting it to work, so lots of driving it around with the dump cart.

 

[Okie]

Thanks for the come back info.

Mine looks as clean or cleaner than that one but has a really good original L-head Briggs twin cylinder. The engine is like new. starts easy and fast.

I'll loosen the brake spring off on this one and pull my dump cart around with heavy loads and see if it loosens up.
Yes after few neck poppers the clutch foot work is a heads up. It's the surprise neck pop that is aggravating. (forgot to let the clutch out slow)
A new Operator will catch on fast to the whip lash clutch.

 

[grizz55chev]

Seems that the grabby clutch symptoms are going away. Or maybe my foot work is better. IDK.

It is now up for sale. Wrong time of the year to be selling a rider, but who knows. I haven't bought a mower yet that I wasn't willing to keep as my own. Maybe it will sell next spring, or maybe the market's supply and demand will stabilize and this Craftsman will be my keeper.

I've been putting it to work, so lots of driving it around with the dump cart.

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Just fixed a major oil leak on this model for a friend. Turned out to be a blown gasket where the engine splits, a relatively easy fix. He got it for $200, and it runs like new now, smokes a little on first startup, so probably a valve seal, gonna have him run it for a while and see if it clears up. Nice mowers, and parts are easy to find. When I split the motor, I found half of a push rod in the sump!

 

[Okie]

Keep a heads up if it's a Briggs Intek with a momentary smoke on start up. If it gets worse and a running issue they have a habit of a leaking head gasket usually going into the push rod galley. Sometimes can even see such with the valve cover off doing a leak down test while looking into the push rod galley.

Leaking sump gaskets is depressing to see when still on the tractor. Also attracts lots of dirt and grass clipping on a mower engine. No need in trying to snug up the bolts once they start leaking. Just a waste of time and oil.

I started using K&W copper plus or equiv permatex gasket sealer to the crankcase side to securely GLUE the paper gasket in place then a thin coat of Yamaha Bond on the sump side of the gasket so as to make sure the thin paper gasket stays in place as it ages.

Using the Yamaha Bond allows me to wiggle the sump little bit W/O distorting the paper gasket when installing the sump. I let the sealers dry for about 24 hours before adding oil.

Even more depressing to see a sump gasket leaking again after awhile. I've seen them only leak hot oil. (no leak when the oil is cold)

Also keep a heads up, some of them crankshaft seals now days do not even have the spring inside the lip. (China type crankshaft seals usually)

 

[grizz55chev]

Keep a heads up if it's a Briggs Intek with a momentary smoke on start up. If it gets worse and a running issue they have a habit of a leaking head gasket usually going into the push rod galley. Sometimes can even see such with the valve cover off doing a leak down test while looking into the push rod galley.

Leaking sump gaskets is depressing to see when still on the tractor. Also attracts lots of dirt and grass clipping on a mower engine. No need in trying to snug up the bolts once they start leaking. Just a waste of time and oil.

I started using K&W copper plus or equiv permatex gasket sealer to the crankcase side to securely GLUE the paper gasket in place then a thin coat of Yamaha Bond on the sump side of the gasket so as to make sure the thin paper gasket stays in place as it ages.

Using the Yamaha Bond allows me to wiggle the sump little bit W/O distorting the paper gasket when installing the sump. I let the sealers dry for about 24 hours before adding oil.

Even more depressing to see a sump gasket leaking again after awhile. I've seen them only leak hot oil. (no leak when the oil is cold)

Also keep a heads up, some of them crankshaft seals now days do not even have the spring inside the lip. (China type crankshaft seals usually)

I found it really easy to work on, had the motor out and on the bench in no time, despise all the oil slathered all over everything. I usexthe Right stuff to seal the sump gasket, worked like a charm. Good to know about the head gasket, I'll let him know to keep an eye on it. The thing runs well, never even touched the carb, fires right up and good throttle response, don't fix what ain't broke! I did service the mower deck while I had it down, nice machines!

 

[Okie]

Oil all over the work bench:

Something I've found really handy to help keep the work bench top from getting oily and greasy when flogging chainsaws and small engines is a large metal tray, like a cookie tray. Has about 1/2 inch sides. Look at wal mart for the different sizes.
OR
for small engines I use the round plastic lid from a molasses tub (like the ranchers use as feeder for their cattle) These plastic lids are tough, have about a 1 inch lip around the edge and will catch oil grease and also any small objects that want to get to the floor that you did not see fall off the engine plus hold any tools within reach w/o have to look for such.
I just get them molasses tubs (approx 25 gallon tubs with lids) given to me by ranchers and I also use the tubs with lids to store small engines and other parts outside the shop. They are waterproof when the lid is secured. I'm referring to the really heavy made black plastic type. Really handy when placed the the waterproof tub outside the shop to store engines waiting on parts. (all the parts in one place off the work bench and out of the shop)

The right stuff sealer you mentioned plus others such as Yamaha Bond, K&W, Permatex copper Plus gasket maker storage of un used tubes. I've got an old working fridge in the shop and I store gaskets makers/sealers, etc in the fridge placed in zip lock bags so as the un used portions will not dry out in the tubes/cans. (extends the storage life of the gasket sealers)

 

[user 122190]

I found it really easy to work on, had the motor out and on the bench in no time, despise all the oil slathered all over everything. I usexthe Right stuff to seal the sump gasket, worked like a charm. Good to know about the head gasket, I'll let him know to keep an eye on it. The thing runs well, never even touched the carb, fires right up and good throttle response, don't fix what ain't broke! I did service the mower deck while I had it down, nice machines!

Did you have to remove the drive pulley to pull the engine? I don't have a good way to lift the front of the machine beyond a few or more inches. I've seen plenty of videos where the pulley is taken off before yanking the engine, and they sometimes don't come off easy, requiring an impact hammer. Not sure about fussing under the machine with limited space to work with power tools underneath.

 

[grizz55chev]

Did you have to remove the drive pulley to pull the engine? I don't have a good way to lift the front of the machine beyond a few or more inches. I've seen plenty of videos where the pulley is taken off before yanking the engine, and they sometimes don't come off easy, requiring an impact hammer. Not sure about fussing under the machine with limited space to work with power tools underneath.

Yes, the pulley did have to come off, no, it wasn't stuck, and I just lifted it to one side and proped it up with 2x4s. It's not rally that heavy. I did drop the mower deck first, again, not that hard, and it was impacted with old clippings and needed service anyway. It's been a month or so, but if memory serves, I pulled the spark plug and stuffed rope into the cylinder to get a good bite on the bolt holding the pulley.

 

[Okie]

You say:
I don't have a good way to lift the front of the machine beyond a few or more inches.

Couple ideas:
To make life little easier when working under the lawn tractors.
I first started out with floor jacks and safety stands, few times under a shade tree with ratchet cable winches and a truck bed mat to lay on. Also have a large A frame hoist outside with a 5 ton chain hoist but prefer to work inside shop over a concrete floor and piece of old low nap carpet on the floor especially when weather is bad.

For inside shop:
I now have a little 1 ton rated chain hoist in the shop and the support for the hoist is a 1 1/2 inch schedule 40 pipe about 12ft long across several of the ceiling joists. I also have a ratchet cable hoist to connect to the machine as a safety back-up after the lawn tractor is lifted and safety stands as a back-up safety. I work by myself so I work safely so as I'm not going to be supporting any falling machinery. most generally I have to remove the tractors hood and then can hoist the machine by looping a lifting chain around the front axle or by attaching to the front frame. I do not use chain hooks, I bolt the chain securely to the frame or bolted chain loops. hoist lifting makes things such as removing and installing decks and removing engines more user friendly for me.

I can easily hoist a lawn tractor straight up vertically if desired so as to get at the under side with impact drivers, both electric and air type. I've tried cherry pickers and lawn tractor floor jacks but their support arms are not user friendly to work around. I can also lift the transaxle end of the tractor with the chain hoist if desired.

The PTO pulley most generally has to be removed before removing the engine from the frame and I've seen them pulleys rusted on severely and had to sacrifice the pulley to get them off. I have a large gear type bearing puller that I can use to remove the rusted on ones. Sometimes heat cool is required.
I clean the shaft good and apply anti-seize before re-installing PTO pulleys and the slip on type rear rims.. When impact tightening or removing on or off I use the torque limiting extension drivers.

 

[user 122190]

Really really the wrong time of the year to be selling a mower. My latest cannot even get a single hit, and I've been moving the price all around to no effect.

That's not stopping me though, and I've got another coming soon. A free one. Guys dealing with a HUGE amount of stuff that has to be hauled out, due to a death. Guy says something is wrong with it, but has no idea what is the problem. My thought is it don't run for all the usual reasons, and the guy just doesn't have any time to look into it. Hell it might just be out of gas.

 

[Okie]

Same in this neck of the woods about selling mowers.

Severe drought, grass not growing plus cooler weather and hunting season coming.
People thinking about getting wood, gas and groceries.

Time to get them mowers ready in spare time for next season. (and keep the batteries trickle charged)