Hand filing chain

[Chris-PA]

The one thing that I have found makes the most difference in hand filing is a good chain vise and good lighting. I use no guides other than for depth gauges. I find that when I think I've done a decent job touching up a chain on the bar, or that it looks pretty good yet, when I put it on the vice and get a real good look at it there is almost always improvement to be had.

This is one I made, and it isn't fancy. The angles are marked off for the chains I use:

one file one sharpen an throw the file in the trash

Unless you are filing huge full comp chains that have been rocked then something is wrong. My files last much longer than that. I buy the 3-packs of Stihl files at the local hardware store.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

My goal is to be hand filing with out a guide sooner than later.But we will see how that work's out.So far I actually enjoy hand filing,well maybe not the depth gauges so much.

I free hand all my chains. I use a sand paper wheel or a grinding stone on a dremel to do the rakers, though. They just take to long by hand.

To the OP, if you only tried free handing once, keep trying. Maybe it's hard to perfect, but it's not difficult to make a workable chain. Remember which part of the cutter you're sharpening, take a few strokes, feel it with your thumb, repeat.

When I was learning sharpen knives, I bought a loupe, a magnifying glass with a light on a eyeglass frame. Makes it really easy to inspect your edge. Might be a worthwhile investment. Should be less than $10.

 

[p61 western]

What about when the chain is at about half life,do you still use a depth gauge.Or do you go a little deeper and use a feeler gauge and straight edge.

 

[Chris-PA]

What about when the chain is at about half life,do you still use a depth gauge.Or do you go a little deeper and use a feeler gauge and straight edge.

I find feeler gauges to be too slow. I use those cheap Oregon Gauge-It tools, but I have one I ground out a bit so it's set a bit further than 0.025" for use on old chains.

My biggest problem with those tools is that on full chisel chains it dings the point after you set the depth gauges, so I end up going back and doing a swipe on all the cutters afterwards.

 

[p61 western]

I find feeler gauges to be too slow. I use those cheap Oregon Gauge-It tools, but I have one I ground out a bit so it's set a bit further than 0.025" for use on old chains.

My biggest problem with those tools is that on full chisel chains it dings the point after you set the depth gauges, so I end up going back and doing a swipe on all the cutters afterwards.

That's the problem I'm having with the depth gauge tool.My chains are all full chisel.Thank's for the tip on grinding down the tool a little bit,even after going back to touch up the tip still faster than feeler gauge.

 

[jakethesnake]

Set your gauges first then file the tooth .... Under normal circumstances that way you're not dinging your point

 

[Boomer 87]

Well I ordered the grandberg file-n-joint. I was at my local rural king tonight getting some bar oil and looked over the sharpeners. They had a bar mount file guide but it had too much plastic on it for me. I did however pickup two files one for .325 the other for 3/8 that have the flat steel on the file to help keep it straight I'm gonna try another chain with those tomorrow. Then I'll try it out again once i get my file-n-joint

 

[Philbert]

Was contemplating getting more acquainted with hand filing I was looking at the grandberg file-n-joint G106b. Anybody have or use one are they decent?

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

The one thing that I have found makes the most difference in hand filing is a good chain vise and good lighting.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-tech-filing-vise.245004/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-er-tech-filing-vise.277258/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/i-made-some-chain-vises.240935/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/my-new-saw-chain-vise.120500/#post-1935099

Philbert

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

True, but aquiring that skill level requires running through quite a few dozen high quality files, something that most homeowner firewooders will not achieve in 40 years firewood cutting. So I do see the file guides as well as the grinders, irrespective of quality level, as absolutely having their place in the field. Better a semi sharp chain than a completely dull chain.

7

+1

If I started with hand filing, I'd likely end up with a dull chain or breaking something in frustration. I just want a reasonably sharp chain that doesn't take long to accomplish, so I'm more inclined to do it after every tank or two.

 

[p61 western]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/



http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-tech-filing-vise.245004/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-er-tech-filing-vise.277258/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/i-made-some-chain-vises.240935/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/my-new-saw-chain-vise.120500/#post-1935099

Philbert

Thank you for the links. I definitely want to make a chain vise.

 

[Festus]

I use the File-n-Joint. Don't get frustrated if it doesn't seem to go well at first. My first time, I took quite a bit of life out of that chain, but after a few, it works very well. Mine must not be perfectly concentric, because when I switch from one side to the other, I have to readjust the stop screw so the cutters are filed to the same length. I get a couple sharpenings out of a file, but when in doubt, throw em out. A dull file waists time and energy, and you are more likely to get a lip on the edge. Have files to spare so you won't be inclined to save a dull one.

 

[Tenderfoot]

There is for sure a learning curve on the file n joint. Its slow and tedious but once you get the hang of it and set your gauges just so you will have a chain that will cut head and shoulders above any factory chain I have used. It is good enough I have two, one for my truck tool box, in case I rock all my chains, and one for my at home tool box for all my at home filing. I also found 5 or 6 very light strokes cuts far better then three firm ones. A gentle removal of material seems to be the best recipe for me. Only with depth gauges am I firm. Another thing I got in the habit of it rapping the file tip on something handy to clear the filings after every tooth. I tend to tap it on my stump vice.

And, for absolutely every one I have ever met who runs a saw, you can file better with a guide then without. They can produce good results without, but no body can be as precise as a clamped down piece of steel. Get lots of files too, I go through a lot. They are under $1.50 each and a fresh file is an enjoyable tool to use. I would happily spend $100 extra a year on files if it made the job more enjoyable.

 

[merc_man]

Heres a chain vice i made. Nothin fancy but holds the chain real good.

 

[merc_man]

I also use a echo file handle like this one. Cant really see in pick but the wing looking things are marked at 25 and 30 degrees which helps for a quick angle refrence for free hand filing.

 

[Big_Wood]

Biggest problem with new filers is not filing down while filing back. Need to keep that overhang!


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Biggest problem I've seen with new filers is the opposite. They tend to file down and create a nasty hook on the tooth. It's easy to confuse a chain that cuts with a chain that cuts perfect if a guy has never ran a perfect cutting chain.

 

[jackjcc]

Biggest problem I've seen with new filers is the opposite. They tend to file down and create a nasty hook on the tooth. It's easy to confuse a chain that cuts with a chain that cuts perfect if a guy has never ran a perfect cutting chain.

I get arborists who know trees and not saws. So my experiences may vary.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jet47]

Been hand filing since I was 11 (man that was a long time ago)...have owned 4 top notch grinders, all were for round ground. Not even close to my freehand filing. They are all gone and will never be replaced. Hand filing is where its at as long as you're good at it. All the jigs/guides they are selling won't be needed with a guy that knows how to file.

Agreed!
The first thing I do when I put a new chain on a saw is file it. I guess it helps when years ago fellow workers would have me file their saw during dinner break. Lots of practice.

 

[hatfield]

You can buy a Sthil FG2 filing jig new from the UK or Germany, or try to find a used one on Ebay or Craigslist. They are expensive, but they are by far the best jig ever made.

 

[farmer steve]

iv'e been using these handles for my files from stihl. they lock the file in to prevent wobble and don't come loose.like the echo handles they have degree angles on the wings,

 

[Boomer 87]

I hate to admit this. But since I've been grinding chains with an electric grinder. When it comes to setting the Rakers I got lazy,I quit using the depth Guage and just mounted the sharpened chain back on saw took a flat file and just gave it 1 or 2 swipes each and went on. I guess I just get lucky bc they cut good. They don't jump around either. But since I'm gonna go back to doing it by hand I'll pull out the depth Guage and do it right.

Another question how important is making the teeth the same length. I've heard find the shortest or most damaged tooth, sharpen and set that one then do all the rest the same length. Seems like a waste of chain to me, if you sharpen each tooth and set the raker off that tooth I don't see why length would matter.