Handle Savers???

[nctacoma]

Anybody found any way to make good homemade handle savers?

I haven't found the store bought ones to be that great.

I will be the first to admit it, I miss my mark sometimes (I am sure we all have) and it really hurts my ego on my nice tools.

I was thinking of wrapping the first few inches closest to the head with a used mountain bike tire and securing it somehow.

Any other ideas that have worked well

 

[ericjeeper]

Not so much of a handle saver but....

I was at our loc FD the other day and noticed one of their axes. Someone had taken what appeared to be 1/4 inch rope and wrapped it in a fashion around the grip part of the handle then covered it with friction tape.. Made it rather gnarly. But with large overstuffed firefighting gloves on I am sure it would make controling the axe a much easier task. It was not wrapped one coil against the next. But maybe 3/4 -1 inch apart, then covered with friction tape.

 

[ents]

If it's a splitting maul handle you're talking about, just go buy a Monster Maul. I went thru dozens of wooden handled mauls, tried this and that to save the handles and nothing worked. Finally broke down and bought the monster. I've had that maul for 20 yrs. now, many, many, many, many cords of wood and still has more life in it than I do.

good luck

Fred

 

[Industry]

Wish I had a pic of the one my grandfather gave me. Steel Pipe for a handle, welded to the head. Never break that baby!

 

[chowdozer]

Metal handle... hmmm... puts the weight in the wrong place. A metal handle transmits alot more vibration too.
To save your wood handle, just put an old piece of radiator hose over it. You can probably get them for free at the wrecking yard.

 

[kevinj]

Handle saver !

I posted this a couple weeks ago in a different forum.
This was my dads idea and it works great.
Cut 4 pieces of a 3 in. section of bicycle tire innertube.
Slide them up the handle 1 at a time.
then roll each one the last few inches,
then push them towards the head.
You can add more if you wish.
They'll look like 4 rolled up condoms.
It works great for protection.

 

[ents]

Metal handle... hmmm... puts the weight in the wrong place. A metal handle transmits alot more vibration too.

I'm not sure where the weight should be but with the monster it's in the head. Swing that thing straight over your head, not from over your shoulder, and whatever you hit pops open. Hardly ever gets stuck due to the aggressive angle on the head. Transmits vibration -- never felt any.

just my 2 cents

Fred

 

[turnkey4099]

Anybody found any way to make good homemade handle savers?

I haven't found the store bought ones to be that great.

I will be the first to admit it, I miss my mark sometimes (I am sure we all have) and it really hurts my ego on my nice tools.

I was thinking of wrapping the first few inches closest to the head with a used mountain bike tire and securing it somehow.

Any other ideas that have worked well

I see you haven't drawn many replies. All of them come down to adding rubber thingies. That is the same thing the storebought ones are.

Just what is it you don't like about the storebought ones? I find them quite effective.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Wish I had a pic of the one my grandfather gave me. Steel Pipe for a handle, welded to the head. Never break that baby!

Yeah, we had a hammer fixed that way when I was a kid. Clumsiest thing to use I ever saw. Weight in all the wrong places, poor grip, shock transmitter...

I use wood handles on both the sledge and the maul. Figure to replace one of the handles every 2 or 3 years. I find the 'sit in the shade with a beer and some broken window glass' excercise relaxing and enjoyable.

I installed a storebought handle protector on my sledge handle last year. Think it has already saved that new handle once already.

Harry K

 

[ents]

I guess we have digressed from the original question and that is handle savers. Since I have not bought a handle saver or a new handle in over 20 yrs. since I bought the monster I guess I can not comment anymore. I will say one thing, the monster would make a mighty clumsy hammer. Watch out for your fingers when nailing (there's a right tool for every job and the monster is not a hammer).


Fred

 

[BIG JAKE]

I'm with ents. Got tired of a loose head on my maul so I welded on a round pipe handle-won't go back to wood.
I have an axe with a store bought rubber handle protector. Works ok, but I split with my maul mostly.

 

[babalu87]

My father took some pipe, cut it in half and welded about 6 inches to the maul. Put on a new hickory handle and called it a day.
My father did this to his maul about 20 years ago, I think he is still on the same handle.

 

[SmokinDodge]

I have seen people take ten inches of angle iron and use hose clamps to clamp around the handle close to the splitting head. I think I would rather learn how to swing the damn thing properly.

 

[turnkey4099]

I have seen people take ten inches of angle iron and use hose clamps to clamp around the handle close to the splitting head. I think I would rather learn how to swing the damn thing properly.

Speaking of that...After my carpentry accident resulting in 50% vision in left eye and practically no depth perception...That was fun learning to swing a maul/sledge again and hit the target. It still takes a few practice swings if I haven't been at it in a couple weeks.

Oh yes, WEAR THEM SAFETY GLASSES. I wasn't and they were laying right in arms reach at the time.

Harry K

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Speaking of that...After my carpentry accident resulting in 50% vision in left eye and practically no depth perception...That was fun learning to swing a maul/sledge again and hit the target. It still takes a few practice swings if I haven't been at it in a couple weeks.

Oh yes, WEAR THEM SAFETY GLASSES. I wasn't and they were laying right in arms reach at the time.

Harry K

Thats a good tip I think

 

[babalu87]

I have seen people take ten inches of angle iron and use hose clamps to clamp around the handle close to the splitting head. I think I would rather learn how to swing the damn thing properly.

All hail the perfect wood splitter

 

[SmokinDodge]

All hail the perfect wood splitter

Why thank you.

Being serious though, Do you aim before you swing or are you just dropping the maul from over your head and hope it hits the wood? No ones perfect but instead of looking for a super duper handle wouldn't it make sense to work on the swing? It's kinda like beating your head on a wall everyday and looking for a softer wall.

The best exercise in hammer swinging in the world is driving some track pins from a Cat, after that everything else is easy.

And Turnkey is spot on, eye protection is paramount.

 

[babalu87]

I am on my 8th cord of Red Oak with the same Hickory handle. My maul has no such device on it, just a Collins axe , stock. Some people need a little assistance , why bash their methods of creating a better "mousetrap"

I am sure you are very highly regarded in the world of wood splitting.

 

[SmokinDodge]

I am on my 8th cord of Red Oak with the same Hickory handle. My maul has no such device on it, just a Collins axe , stock. Some people need a little assistance , why bash their methods of creating a better "mousetrap"

I am sure you are very highly regarded in the world of wood splitting.

Not bashing anyone, and I was one of the few people that actually offered a steel option for saving the wood handle. I simply stated what I would do,which would be identify what the problem is and act to resolve it. Not develop band aid.

 

[stihlgoin]

What I use.

I also belong to the missed-target-splitting club. All these ideas sounds good so far however if you're already in the market for something different... let me recommend the splitting maul made by Fiskars. I got mine at Menards for just under $40 and I love it. I also know you can find them at Lowe's and Home Depot.

http://www.fiskars.com/US/Garden/Cutting+Tools/Axes/Product+Listing1.html

Features: Virtually unbreakable handle made of Nyglass®, fiberglass reinforced composite. Head will not loosen due to insert molded design
Sharp & durable fully hardened blade (HRC of 41-45) and edge (HRC 50-56)
Includes sheath for storage and transportation
Non-stick coated, forged carbon steel blade cuts with less effort
Let me know if anyone else has one of these. I love mine so far and would like to hear others feedback.