RandyMac
Stiff Member
Certain models have a +5 advance flywheel, they can be tough to start, sometimes.
Hard starting reputation of McCulloch saws?
- Thread starter TheManOfStihl
- Start date
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cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
thubthubthubthub... POP!
#$%@, that hurts!!!
#$%@, that hurts!!!
Sir Charles,
Would you happen to have a spare 5° flywheel in case I need one? Seems the 101AA I am planning to put into a saw chassis did not come to me with the extra 5° advance.
Mark
Would you happen to have a spare 5° flywheel in case I need one? Seems the 101AA I am planning to put into a saw chassis did not come to me with the extra 5° advance.
Mark
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
If the needle/seat aren't holding well then the saw can flood when sitting hot. Pressure in the tank forces fuel past the needle seat. Seen that before.
The RK-44HL kit isn't really needed for the HL19D. RK-44HL was an old #. A common RK-88HL kit will work just fine in an HL19 or HL63 series carb. The majority of 'regular' 250's (meaning NOT Super 250's) were built with the HL63. Only the first year of the 250 had the flatback. I still have a box full of flatbacks that I have swapped out for HL63's and HL19's (and would still trade them for good complete HL19's and HL63's).
Sure the flatbacks can be good carbs. I have no reason to run them so long as I have the correct HL's to swap on however. Kits are easier to find and cost 1/3 as much. The welch plugs for those carbs are an odd size and not easy to find quickly if needed. Sometimes those carbs will NOT run right without removing the large welch plug, cleaning things out, and possibly replacing the 'check valve' or 'capilliary filter' setup (which are also sometimes tough to get).
The RK-44HL kit isn't really needed for the HL19D. RK-44HL was an old #. A common RK-88HL kit will work just fine in an HL19 or HL63 series carb. The majority of 'regular' 250's (meaning NOT Super 250's) were built with the HL63. Only the first year of the 250 had the flatback. I still have a box full of flatbacks that I have swapped out for HL63's and HL19's (and would still trade them for good complete HL19's and HL63's).
Sure the flatbacks can be good carbs. I have no reason to run them so long as I have the correct HL's to swap on however. Kits are easier to find and cost 1/3 as much. The welch plugs for those carbs are an odd size and not easy to find quickly if needed. Sometimes those carbs will NOT run right without removing the large welch plug, cleaning things out, and possibly replacing the 'check valve' or 'capilliary filter' setup (which are also sometimes tough to get).
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I like the Macs for other reasons than needing to cut wood with it, but from the stories I heard from people using them back them, they all had a reputation of bad starters, both cold and warm :msp_thumbdn:
I wouldn't like to count the numbers of Macs that have been flying through the forest because of loggers gone crazy....
Like Mark said earlier, you have to get used to methods overcoming the starting issues, but if you are not a redneck tech at minimum, stay clear from the Macs....
I wouldn't like to count the numbers of Macs that have been flying through the forest because of loggers gone crazy....
Like Mark said earlier, you have to get used to methods overcoming the starting issues, but if you are not a redneck tech at minimum, stay clear from the Macs....
Old Macs can still be made into good running saws if you check them out and make sure everything's okay. The points have to be clean and clearanced, timing correct and carb in good shape. These are old saws so compression should be checked as well as a vac/pressure test in the crankcase. If everything checks out it should run as new...
I like the Macs for other reasons than needing to cut wood with it, but from the stories I heard from people using them back them, they all had a reputation of bad starters, both cold and warm :msp_thumbdn:
I wouldn't like to count the numbers of Macs that have been flying through the forest because of loggers gone crazy....
Like Mark said earlier, you have to get used to methods overcoming the starting issues, but if you are not a redneck tech at minimum, stay clear from the Macs....
Never had a 250 but a have a 1-42 that starts as well as anything I have. I used to have some older Macs years ago that didn't start well, but then again I didn't know how to tune them back then...
Back in the days these saws were in being used daily most users didn`t know how tune them either. The .404 chain caused a lot of vibration cutting hardwood and the carb settings changed on its own. I was just a young mechanic back then and that was the main thing I found when dealing with chainsaws that were hard to start. I could keep my families saws starting and running fine but lots of others just put up with lousy running saws til I got to work on them.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry Mark. I do not. When I get back to building, I need at least one myself.
jeepyfz450
Addicted to ArboristSite
My CP is a hard starting b..... i thought that is how its supposed to be. these saws are big and mean and demand you be aswell. My boys really like hearing the saws run and they get quite a show when i fire up the CP. You guys ever drive anything with a detroit in it? you gotta be mad and run the living hell out of them. that how these saws are you dont want just any limp wristed fruit loop to be able to fire them up it would be too dangerous. starting my CP requires at least 5 swear words and sometimes throwing a sqrench.
all joking aside mine is a hard starting B..... i think i need to put a carb kit in it.
all joking aside mine is a hard starting B..... i think i need to put a carb kit in it.
Based on the title of the thread, I just jumped to the end. When my Dad went into business for himself he had already switched from Mac's to Homelites. I vaguely remember tying old Macs on his climbing line to send them up the tree. By the time I went to work for him our big saws were Super 1050's. We still had a few old Mac's in the barn, and they were as big as the 1050, no idea what model? I always wanted to build a twin engine cart with 2 of them. I'd start them up and they ran great. When I asked why he quit using them he said once they got hot they were a pain to start. One day I went down to play with them and all of the Yellow was Gone. Dad said he gave them to his cousins kids for cart engines. I'm glad I still have his DA211, Joe.
Yeah, they just need a little maintenance. My big old Macs all start as easy as any other saw when tuned up.
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Just all depends on which way you bite your tongue and which language you swear in works for me
McBob.
McBob.
Karl Robbers
ArboristSite Operative
I hope that's a joke! One stray splash of fuel and there go your eyebrows and rugged good looks.
Sprintcar
Chainsaw Slut
McCullochs were not the only saws where fuel mix was squirted in the mufflers. Just about all of them at one time or another were primed that way.
Mostly back in the days when they only had stacks over the exhaust port.
Sprintcar
Chainsaw Slut
And in some cases nothing at all. Most of the stack saws had the ends gone and it turned into a megaphone.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
You'd do well to spend some time on that. My 125c ran ok, but was a hard-starting sob with the fixed jet carb. Tore my hand off several times (they have 5deg flywheels factory). Switched it to an adjustable, and it's a docile starter and meaner in the cut than before.
Echojohnny
R.I.P. Richard Fullam & Mike Poppa #113
Also you may have a problem with the ignition condenser breaking down unless the ignition was converted to electronic. I have had that happen to me too many times. A nice blue snappy spark on the ignition tester looks great but wait till it warms up and the fun starts.
