Hello from new member

[Ian Rogers]

Guys

My first post and I hope I'm going about it the right way but any feedback on site protocol welcome.

I've been milling for a few years now using a Husky 385 and 24 inch alaskan type mill. I have the luxury of having a ready supply of cypress pine and iron bark trees on my farm as well as a tractor with front end loader and a truck. I make my own chains from bulk using Oregon skip tooth chain and sharpen them using an Oregon chain grinder.

I've uploaded 7 photos into an album under my user profile as per the instructions on the site but I've yet to work out how to put them into a post.

My original inspiration came from Will Malloff's book and I've now seen quite a few good ideas from posts on this site.

I won't ask questions until I've thoroughly researched the site but my main areas of interest are:

chain types particularly for Australian hardwoods like iron bark.
making the job easier - elevating the log, winches etc

Anyhow enough for the moment and I look forward to learning a lot from many of you.

 

[Ian Rogers]

Photos attacghed now

 

[BobL]

chain types particularly for Australian hardwoods like iron bark.
making the job easier - elevating the log, winches etc

Firstly welcome - it sounds like you will fit in just right here.

RE: chain types particularly for Australian hardwoods like iron bark.
I've tried various skip, semi chisel, full chisel and square ground and my conclusion is if you have enough power then full comp semi chisel is the best chain for Aussie hardwood.
If you don't have enough power then skip helps.

RE: Elevating the log.
If you have a tractor you are already better off than most.
Here's what I use when I don't have access to a loader.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=55860
Here is an interesting website with what they call an AJ log lifter.
http://www.swing-set.us/tips.html

 

[mtngun]

Maybe there's a better way but here's how I embed attached photos.

First, you use the paper clip icon to attach them to your post, which you have already done.

Then "PREVIEW" the post and click on the attached photo. It opens in a new tab, at least on my browser. Select and Copy the attachment's addy.

Then return to your PREVIEW and click on the photo icon -- the yellow icon with a mountain. It'll ask for an addy and you PASTE the addy.

Repeat for each photo.

By the way, you are not considered a vetted forum member until BobL has inspected your CSMing ergonomics. The only way you will get a pass for this pose will be if you are a double amputee. Otherwise, prepare for the lecture.

 

[BobL]

By the way, you are not considered a vetted forum member until BobL has inspected your CSMing ergonomics. The only way you will get a pass for this pose will be if you are a double amputee. Otherwise, prepare for the lecture.

:deadhorse:

One reason why I didn't comment because I guessed that's why he's asking about how to lift logs.

 

[splitpost]

That cypress sure smells good when your sitting down having a cold drink admiring your days work ,welcome to AS

 

[Ian Rogers]

Thanks for the responses and encouragement. To head off a lecture on ergonomics can I note that the kneeling option has long been discarded in favour of using the tractor to lift the logs onto the posts I buried in the ground using the posthole digger on the tractor.

Also see attached (now that I know how to do it thanks) photos of my Will Malloff inspired hand winch. I have not used his saw throttle trigger arrangement as I've yet to work out how to do this with a full plastic hand grip that also has a fuel ank inside it (Husky 385).

Ignorant question for BobL if I may - what is a "full comp semi chisel" chain. Do I presume it means a normal (full complement) tooth spacing not skip tooth and that semi chisel means 10 degrees? Do you buy this in Australia or do you modify chain? I've previously used my Oregon chain grinder to take 35 degree teeth back to 10 degree but haven't yet concluded that this is the best solution for cypress and ironbark.

Thanks

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the responses and encouragement. To head off a lecture on ergonomics can I note that the kneeling option has long been discarded in favour of using the tractor to lift the logs onto the posts I buried in the ground using the posthole digger on the tractor.

Great idea - now what you should do is make one end higher than the other so you mill on a slope.

Also see attached (now that I know how to do it thanks) photos of my Will Malloff inspired hand winch. I have not used his saw throttle trigger arrangement as I've yet to work out how to do this with a full plastic hand grip that also has a fuel ank inside it (Husky 385).

Ah yes - that's a bit of a nuisance. but there are other options around, do a search for "remote throttle" or "hand throttle"

I've tried using various winch arrangements, including a totally hands free operation of trying a rope to the mill and draping the other end over the loader forks and hanging my tool box on the end, but I'm not a big fan of winches on logs because I like to maneuver the mill around obstacles and have at least one hand on the saw to feel what's it happening. However, I can see that they would be useful on straight cants etc

BTW your mill will run a lot smoother with a winch if you add wheels to it.

Ignorant question for BobL if I may - what is a "full comp semi chisel" chain. Do I presume it means a normal (full complement) tooth spacing not skip tooth and that semi chisel means 10 degrees? Do you buy this in Australia or do you modify chain? I've previously used my Oregon chain grinder to take 35 degree teeth back to 10 degree but haven't yet concluded that this is the best solution for cypress and ironbark.

Yep - normal tooth spacing not skip
Semi chisel is what the manufacturers call it - Full chisel or just "chisel" has a square shaped outside cutter corner, semi chisel has a rounded corner. I find that in Aussie hardwood the pointy end is lost very quickly. I buy most of my chain from Aussie member, Rooshooter, and buy either 10º, or 30º and file back to 10º.

 

[Ian Rogers]

BobL

Re your comment "Great idea - now what you should do is make one end higher than the other so you mill on a slope."

I put my posts on a fair slope so that I didn't have to have them at different heights. Prevailing wind is an issue though - a fair bit of the time it is in my face frm the east hence saw dust and fumes also in my face - another reason to be interested in a hand winch. It won't be a problem in winter though when the wind comes from the west.

I've already come across the wheel idea on this forum and will seriously look at this.

Ian

 

[mtngun]

Looks like nice country. I didn't realize you had hills down there ?

 

[BobL]

BobL
Re your comment "Great idea - now what you should do is make one end higher than the other so you mill on a slope."
I put my posts on a fair slope so that I didn't have to have them at different heights.

Even better ! - but see comment below

Prevailing wind is an issue though - a fair bit of the time it is in my face frm the east hence saw dust and fumes also in my face - another reason to be interested in a hand winch. It won't be a problem in winter though when the wind comes from the west.

I agree about the wind and that's where level ground works because then you could have two sets of supports and then mill from either set end depending on the wind. Where I mill is a couple of miles from the coast so mornings the breeze is offshore and then in the afternoon it blows the other way.

I've already come across the wheel idea on this forum and will seriously look at this.

Look out for my new wheel designs coming soon!

Looking at your setup I can see a lot of powder like sawdust. My guess is the log is dry but what raker depth setting are you using, and a how do you set your rakers?

 

[billstuewe]

I use a winch system but have my hand on the saw/throttle so I can guide the saw as Bob does. Works pretty good on long cuts. Short ones I don't bother. A single pully is at the far end and I now have a hook on it that just hooks on to the edge. (The first picture was my trial run.) I also hang an old hydrolic jack that weighs about as much as the saw motor on the far end to balance things out. The jury is still out on that one but it seems to make it easier except for the stop once I get into the cut to hang it on (no, I do not lift the mill with that hanging on there!) If any of you wonder where I got the materials, ask BobL--I think we are kindred spirits at improvising with what we can scrounge up. The parts were in that pile of junk I never throw away.

 

[Ian Rogers]

BobL

Re your question "Looking at your setup I can see a lot of powder like sawdust. My guess is the log is dry but what raker depth setting are you using, and a how do you set your rakers?"

This has been on my mind from the start as I have always got fine dust rather than chips like Malloff said I should. I eventually put it down to Australian wood being harder. Certainly the wood in my photos here is very dry being old logs. We are also in a relatively arid area with an average annual rainfall of 25 inches. I set them using the standard tool that comes in all chain sharpening kits. I've also with quite some trepidation gone another file stroke. Your advice on this would be particulalry appreciated.

Billstuewe

I thought about doing it your way but decided to try the Malloff way first as I had his plans, was in a hurry, and was also attracted by the idea of being away from the saw. I now think I will try it your way so I can retain control of the way as BobL suggests, avoid the hassle of the remote throttle, and mitigate the dust and fumes by wearing my full face respirator helmet.

Mtngun

Yes we have hills here although our hill is only about 300 feet high and over looks the nearly dead flat alluvial plains of Queensland's darling Downs, probably the richest agricultural soil in Australia and rivalling the best of the US Prairies, not that I've ever been there.

Attached a few photos that show a better view looking across our houses and Olive trees, some of the wildlife literally with 50 metres of my mill site (not while the saw is running of course) and a secondhand bandsaw I've got visions of using to cut cants produced by the CS mill.

I'll post separately some photos of my building projects if anyone is interested. I'm assuming we all mill for timber for a purpose!

Ian

 

[splitpost]

help ya out

 

[splitpost]

 

[mtngun]

Thanks for the pics, Ian. I wish I had roos in my yard ! ! ! Do you get along with them, or are they considered a nuisance ?

My take on rakers is that it depends on the saw and wood, etc..

Malloff used a hi-torque, low rpm saw. You are using an high rpm saw. The high rpm saws take lots of small bites while Malloff's saw took a few big bites.

BTW, racing saws run at very high rpms and use shallow raker depths.

If the rakers are too short, the saw will bog down easily.

If the rakers are too high, the chain won't bite (unless you push it forcibly) and you get dust.

Ultimately you may have to experiment with different raker heights and see what makes your saw happy. And, the optimal raker height may change over the life of your chain, as our resident nuclear physicist will probably explain in more detail.

I tried using the file-o-plate to set rakers and it was too aggressive for my lame 066. But, I suspect the FOP would work fairly well with your Husky.

 

[Ian Rogers]

Mtngun

Thanks for the detailed response. I'll experiment with raker height starting with being a bit more aggressive than I have been.

The roos are now protected but are harvested commercially by licensed shooters for an export game meat trade. The place is literally overrun with them now but now that our olive trees are big enough they are no longer a problem. When the trees were young I had to get a "damage mitigtion permit" that allowed me to shoot them. Shooting and reloading by the way is another of my lifelong hobbies cum occupational tool necessity for feral wildlife control.

I'm off to the farm now for a fortnight and may be on less frequently although we now have reasonable 3G wireless internet there now.

Ian

 

[BobL]

This has been on my mind from the start as I have always got fine dust rather than chips like Malloff said I should. I eventually put it down to Australian wood being harder. Certainly the wood in my photos here is very dry being old logs. We are also in a relatively arid area with an average annual rainfall of 25 inches. I set them using the standard tool that comes in all chain sharpening kits. I've also with quite some trepidation gone another file stroke. Your advice on this would be particulalry appreciated.

By standard tool do you mean the standard oregon depth raker? They work OK when the chain is new but the shorter the cutter gets the worse the chain will cut. Chain cuts much more effectively using what is called progressive raker depths.

If you can post a close up of your chain like this

I can assess if your raker depths are well set up to give chips

. . . . . . .and a secondhand bandsaw I've got visions of using to cut cants produced by the CS mill.

That bandsaw looks like a real beauty. If you are interested I can provide you with links to a Queenslander (PJT - same guy I got my latest wheels ideas from) who has set up his bandsaw to resaw cants.

I'll post separately some photos of my building projects if anyone is interested.

Please do!

I'm assuming we all mill for timber for a purpose!

It surprises people when I say this, but I often find I am not milling for a specific purpose. I do it because I like it and I like making and modifying mills. If all my milled timber was to disappear it would not upset me all that much

 

[lumberjackchef]

Thanks for the pics, Ian. I wish I had roos in my yard ! ! !

I agree That would be very cool!

I tried using the file-o-plate to set rakers and it was too aggressive for my lame 066. But, I suspect the FOP would work fairly well with your Husky.

Do you know how far it takes them down?

I have experimented a little with my rakers as well. I've gone down to about .035 - .040, with 10 degree top plate angle, using full comp chisel on my modified 066. Even in hard woods, using this method, have had very good success. Not sure about the FOP having never used one but it is very important to get them uniform in height.

Oh BTW welcome to AS. Glad to have you on board!

 

[mtngun]

Do you know how far it takes them down?

The FOP will take the rakers down more as the chain wears and as the cutter length shrinks. It's not a constant height raker guide, but rather a semi-progressive guide, that attempts to maintain the correct angle as the cutter wears.

On a used chain, the FOP will take the rakers down more than the typical 0.030" or 0.035" raker guide.

Baileys ripping chain starts out at 0.025". My lame 066 seems to cut better at that raker height. The FOP was taking them down more and, while it didn't cut badly, finesse was required to avoid bogging.