Help me design an electric log splitter

[cstamm81]

So I am contemplating building my own splitter. I found these made by TimberDevil, the single and double vertical models: Timber Devil - Hydraulic Wood Splitter Manufacturer
The design intrigued me, I really like the waist level work height and the vertical ram design. I might try to replicate either the single or the double, but use an electric motor vs a gas engine.
I am thinking a 230V single phase electric motor with 3600 RPM output. Not sure if 5HP or I think the next step is 7.5 HP. I need to be able to run it from a normal house electrical panel. I would like to use a 22GPM 2 stage pump, which calls for 12HP, but I know gas to electric HP ratings are not the same.
Has anyone here built their own electric splitter with a larger than normal motor and pump? I want to have quick cycle times and have this be a serious splitter, nothing rinky dink here.

 

[Hddnis]

Look into getting a super split and putting a motor on it, I think you can order them without the engine. Put a 1 1/2 or 2hp electric motor on it and it will split anything you can lift onto it and more.




Mr. HE

 

[blades]

You are looking at $700-1100 for the motor alone in single phase. another $200 or so for cylinder, $80 or so for plain splitter valve, $ 200 in hoses and fittings. Plus steel.
If you have a lot it laying around ok but other wise with current prices hard to get much leaner than the basics above.
I thought I saw an electric option for the super split. Speed wise can't be beat, possible to put a 4-way wedge on it depending on wood species.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

Log Splitter, Wood Splitter - Super Split(R)

You can buy a super split with electric motor.

 

[lakesideC1]

Log Splitter, Wood Splitter - Super Split(R)

You can buy a super split with electric motor.

Yes, you can !
Nice and quite with no smoke either.

And no DR does not offer this option.

 

[cstamm81]

I have access to good prices on new for some things via my work and others via a huge local industrial salvage yard. All that said I know I would easily get $1500 in this project. I had found motors cheaper, such as: WEG 00536OS1CCDG56HZ AC Electric Motor M00333 - Single Phase, 5 HP, 56HZ Frame, 3600 RPM, ODP, 208-230 Volts, 60 Hz, Compressor Duty

I am mostly looking for advice on the biggest single phase motor I can run from a dedicated breaker from my house that has 200A service. I can figure based on full load amps and motor specs, just looking for real world advice. Also advice on how big of a hydraulic pump I can run with say a 5 or 7.5 HP motor. I know there are commercially available options for close to the same price, but I do not believe there are with the same intended design or performance.

 

[blades]

Thumb rule electric vs gas, 1.5x electric hp = gas hp. so based on that 7.5 hp electric vs the gas 12hp per your opening statement. Electric need to look at starting amps as typically that is the peak point varies with motor. then you will need to size your power lines accordingly for the amperage and distance, I would guess that for any kind of distance you will need 4 gauge cables, don't want skimp here. There are charts for this amperage , voltage, distance I do not have my machinery handbook handy as I know its in there. There is a power loss factor per linear ft/cable gauge.

Speed in hydraulics is how fast you can transfer the oil under pressure, restriction points are valve and fittings,hoses. so recommend 1" lines and fittings, most of the cylinders I have seen have 1/2" ports, 1" or 3/4"ports exist you will need to dig for that. use Hi flow fittings and avoid 90 deg. corners. every restriction = friction= heat, so try to minimize. Tank size in gallons about the same or greater than pump flow rating so a 20gallon tank would be the starting point. your tank acts as cooling heat sink for the oil. Also the size of the tank has to allow for oil expansion from heat as well as breathing room ( these are open systems) therefore a 20 gal tank might only have 16 or gallon capacity in light of above.

Control valve, depending on what addition functions you want, like say a lift then it needs to be a power beyond type so you can stack valves. There is an auto cycle valve where when the ram hits end of stroke it auto retracts. Chris

 

[cstamm81]

Thanks for the info Chris. So according to the general rule of HP a 7.5HP electric should run this pump: Surplus Center - 22 GPM DYNAMIC 2-STAGE PUMP I have thought of running a variable freq drive as well, I could then soft start the motor and control speeds, set an overload to protect the circuit etc.

Good advice on the sizing of lines and use of fittings as far as restrictions. I will have a good bit of a learning curve as far as control handles, as I foresee it having a log lift and the idea of two splitting stations sounds cool, but definitely increases the cost and complexity.

I posted this on tractorbynet as well, and someone recommended running a 1750 RPM motor as he said it prevents pump cavitation and is overall easier on the system. I was under the impression these pumps are meant to be run at 3600 RPM to attain the rated output, and I would be slowing my system down by running a 1750 RPM motor. My thought on cavitation is if I size the lines and fittings properly this should be a non-issue.

If all goes as planned I will slowly collect parts from different sources. The main thing is to choose the main components properly so I do not regret sizing of cylinders, motor, pump etc.

 

[John_in_KS]

I'm doing an electric right now.

Recently scored a used splitter for 3 pt. tractor mount. Was gonna use it with my old tractor but decided to convert to electric instead.

Splitter has 4" bore x 24" cylinder
1.5 hp 56C frame 115/230 volt single phase motor $175 new on eBay
Will run on 115 v. because that's all I have at my splitting area. It's new service with 30 amp breaker and the splitter will be the only thing on it.
Haldex Barnes 11 gpm 2 stage pump and motor mount and coupling from Splitez $244 with shippng.
10 gallon reservoir and strainer from Northern Tool $161.00

I have the mount for the reservoir welded up. Just got the motor late yesterday from UPS and have it wired. The hoses that are on the unit are 10 - 12' long. I took them off last night and will take them to a nearby farm store to be shortened and get the suction hose.

With any luck I'll have it running very soon. Will post pictures.

 

[nathon918]

yes your right about the pumps being rated at the 3600 rpm, so going with a 1750 rpm motor will slow down the pump, and lower the pressure...
as for what you can run for a motor, what do you have for capacity left in your panel?, id figure that out first, because disconnecting something so you can hook something else up really is a :censored:.
typically for sizing a breaker/fuses, you go 125% of what the amperage rating on the motor is, so for a motor needing 100 amp, you'd go with 120/130 amp breaker/fuses, that way you dont trip the breaker when you start it, or theres a heavy load on the motor...

 

[blades]

Rpms stay at 3600 of the electric motor, Cavitation only occurs if tank ports are improperly placed tank improperly located in relation pump. What this means, output of tank needs to be higher than input of pump , return line from valve needs to be below the the minimum level of fluid in tank preferably with a deflector or fitting inside tank to direct the flow away from the surface in the tank. You will need or should have a return line filter assembly between the valve and the tank rated at or exceeding the pump rating in gpm. Your outboard additions such as the lift will need flow restrictors and the line can be 1/4", don't want to hit the lift valve and fling a 150lbs round clear into the next county.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Sounds like an interesting project. Different needs and situations lead to different solutions. Interested in seeing this one. I made up a 110 model a while back for my Dad. I thought the 220 version would be to involved to do

 

[blades]

110v version 220v version:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Fred Wright]

I dunno... commercial grade splitters are available with electric motors for less than it would cost to build one yourself, taking into account your time to build it.

A 2-hp motor wired for 120 volts will split wood all day on a 15 amp service. I've been using an electric motor equipped Ramsplitter for two years. Plug & play anywhere there's an outlet. Getting into a 240 volt service, remember it may not be readily available if you need to use the splitter elsewhere.

Can't imagine trying to build one when they can be got already made for under $1500.00. But if you've got yer heart set on constructing one, I wish you the best.

 

[blades]

Hey Fred its the style that puts the kink in the works, Waste high work table, rams above that in vertical mode. I know I have seen some aussie versions of this arrangement plus he wanted twin rams and a lift, not sure what else he has in mind, plus quick cycle time The other thing on the electric motor sizing is load, if you are constantly running at max or very near max they build up a lot of internal heat, enough to cook your windings.

on yours- thumb rule, 5hp gas on a 11gpm pump is about an avg set up so that equates to apx 3.3hp electric. Then there are a bunch of variables that come into play, motor rpm torque rating, efficiency rating, tefc or not, duty cycle, heat rise time and more. Amperage draw on 110v is apx twice what it would be on 220v 1 phase, 1/2that again if 3 phase 220v.
A properly selected or custom 110v ,2hp motor is just fine for your application. I am no hot shot electrical eng. so we are winging it somewhat here. He likely could get away with a 5hp motor depending on its specs. I will bet if he were to ask the pump mfg that they would give a recommendation as well.

 

[cstamm81]

I appreciate the honesty and you are right for a normal duty horizontal / vertical model I am not gaining much by building my own. But remember I am looking at building one similar to the TimberDevil, waist height table with a vertical ram. Those cost upwards to 10K plus if reports on here are correct.
The use of 110V is a consideration, but I won't be able to get fast cycle times unless I go with a small cylinder. Again, I appreciate all of the input and it is a huge help, I am taking all of this info into consideration. Just looking for something different, I have run normal homeowner type splitters for years and what they will do is impressive.

 

[cstamm81]

We must have been typing at the same time blades!

Just watched some supersplit videos, very impressive and tempting. I just don't know if it could handle some of the 36" plus diameter knotted maple I get at times. Alost not sure how I could get wood that big on there to even try to split it. Keep the suggestions coming, I really appreciate all of the angles.

 

[blades]

Super big stuff, I have a separate lift or the lift on the back of the truck ( HF) or Skid Steer ( when using ss I have to have a helper as I can't be in 2 places at same time)

 

[pdhowell]

I have to say, that having an electric splitter, I have to agree with all the information here.

My needs were limited to working with a 10 gauge/ 30 amp outlet, and wondering what the best splitter arrangement would be with this system. I needed about 100 feet of mobility, and a 10 guage extension cord was at hand. If you had 50 amps or more, or three phase, you would come to different conclusions.

I started out with a 110 motor, but could not get the splitter going in cold weather because the start up drag and amp draw would blow a 20 amp breaker. Hence the simple rewiring to 220 volts and half the amp draw and then using the mig welder, or clothes drier receptacle.

I think that I am the one who mentioned using a 1750 rpm motor. That is what I have on my splitter. Performance wise, to my surprise, there is not an easily perceptible difference than the 3600 rpm motor I had used originally. However I rarely extend the ram the entire distance.

I did note that the hydraulic oil does not heat up, the internal friction of the oil and fittings would seem to be less, and I am thinking that there is likely less wear on the pump and the lovejoy coupling, all boding well for reliability. I read a discussion about oil "shear" in the pump, causing cavitation at high rpm, but cannot vouch for the reliability of this information. (Thanks, someone, for pointing out my error.)

I do use a 3.5 inch ram, and since the components are all rated to 3000 psi or 3500 psi (hoses) set my relief pressure to 3000 psi, since that pressure is only intermittent. This gives me the same splitting force as a gas engine/four inche ram at 2000/2250 psi valve.

Again, I roughly modeled on splitter on a neighbor's Ramsplitter, also using box beam, but found this to be the best combo I could manage on my 30 amp circuit.


Maybe useful

 

[Hddnis]

Couple thoughts here...

Looks like for the price you can get your parts that getting a supersplit would almost double your budget and I think with the direction you're headed you will get good performance for your target price.

If you go with a slower motor, 1750 instead of 3600 for example, you can increase the size (displacement) of the pump to get the higher flow and thus higher splitter speed. Instead of getting a 22gpm pump you could get a 28 gpm pump and with the slower motor you'll put out less than the 22gpm pump at 3600rpm, but at least you won't be cutting yourself back to 11gpm like you would if you ran the 22gpm pump on the 1750 rpm motor. I think most the faster electric motors are in the 3400rpm range.

The 5hp motor you are looking at should safely run a 13gpm two stage log splitter type pump as long as the high pressure stage didn't exceed 3gpm. According to the picture of the label the service factor is only 1.15 meaning you can get a max hp rating of 5.75. Basically that motor is close to maxed out at a 5hp load.


Mr. HE