Helping a family member pick out a new saw

[04titanse]

Your getting closer I personally have never run one, but understand they are pretty strong. Especially once they get the extra cc's of a big bore. You can also find 044's for around 250-400 in perfect running condition, they will happily wear a 24" bar.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

Ok, what about running a 24in bar on a Makita 6401?

I am thinking about getting the Makita 6401 and putting a BB kit on it later.

The 6401 runs a 24" bar a lot better than a 361,362 will. It has the torque. There is a video of I believe wiggs gtg from 2010 or 11 of Mike's (rms61moparman) 6400 running a 28" bar and it pulls it no problem.

 

[tallguys]

Forgive me but what exactly is a BB kit, what does it consist of and where do you buy them?

BB refers to a big bore kit, a larger piston and cylinder. Most site sponsor's like Bailey's have them available.

 

[memory]

I looked on Baileys and did not find any for the 6401.

 

[vegaome]

I would advise to buy the best saw you can afford and a size bigger than you think you will need. I spend more time splitting, hauling and stacking than I do cutting. The faster I cut the more time I have to get it in the shed. I don't know if new saws are worth the high prices any more, probably to a pro they are. If you know how and the seller will permit you to inspect the saw I have no problem buying used. I wish you luck.

v/r

Mike

 

[tallguys]

I looked on Baileys and did not find any for the 6401.

You've gotta stay current buddy, the newest version is the 6421.

 

[memory]

I could not find any piston and cylinder kits for Dolmar/Makita saws on Baileys.

 

[tallguys]

I guess that they're not carrying them anymore, or at least not at the moment. That's OK, here is one from another site sponsor:

Chainsawr dolmar / Makita 6400 to 7901 series chainsaw 54mm bore piston and cylinder kit new replaces 038 130 030 (Dol Bulky 2)

 

[SawTroll]

I don't understand that, I see people on here saying you can run a 25" bar on a 361 or 362 on occasion all the time. I realize it would not be good to run that all the time but 98% of the time, I would be using a 20" bar.

Well, that much bar will always pull the lighter 60cc saws out of balance. Regarding the cutting, it depends on a lot of factors, including your expectations.

There are really no universial answer, but a 20" usually is a better option, and personally I prefer to keep them even shorther....:msp_wink:

 

[memory]

I have also thought about getting some work done on my JD CS56. Do they make BB kits for this saw? I have looked but could not find anything. If I decide to do anything major, I will have someone that knows what they are doing work on it. I am not too experienced with working on saws. Is there anything minor I could do that would improve this saw?

 

[AJGross]

Check the indy Craigslist. There is a Stihl MS460 on there right now for $550. That saw should do everything you want it too.

AJ

 

[mstang1988]

Check Home Depot regularly for the 6401 and you can usually find one after looking for a while. Runs $200 used. It's a good value and you can always put the Bailey's Big Bore on later. I'm currently in the process of doing that but liked the 6401 stock just fine. I just wanted more power in a small package vs my 90cc thus the upgrade.

What do you cut that you want a bigger saw?

As for the original post, yes, Echo makes good saws. Their 500P and 600P have been rated well and have been mod friendly (no big bores). I love my 600P.

If you are an Aussie cutting super hard wood you might be running a 20" bar on a Stihl 660 but if you just cut pine you might be able to get away with running a 24" on the 6401 or 60cc class saws saws.

 

[zogger]

I have also thought about getting some work done on my JD CS56. Do they make BB kits for this saw? I have looked but could not find anything. If I decide to do anything major, I will have someone that knows what they are doing work on it. I am not too experienced with working on saws. Is there anything minor I could do that would improve this saw?

Muffler mod and retune the H screw a little richer. is the easiest. That and maintain a real sharp chain.

Tons of pics of various saws and muffler mods on the site. Basically, you are opening the final exhaust hole in the muffler to around 80% of the exhaust opening in the cylinder. If it goes through an internal baffle with holes, drill them out another drill bit size larger to help this endeavor. No idea on your saw but the saws with catalytic converters, the guys usually lose that noise. Plugs it up and makes the saw run just too dang hot.

Sometimes muffler mods are really easy, they just open up with the screws and bolts (most older saws), etc., other times requires cutting them open and rewelding them after modding, just depends(a lot of newer saws).