Hi-Lift Jacks for Downriggers?

[Moss Man]

I have a firewood log trailer with a grapple loader and when it isn't hooked to the truck it can be a little unstable. The rear of the trailer is all rugged tubular steel and I was thinking if I mounted one Hi-Lift jack on each back corner they could be dropped down for downriggers, you could lightly lift a small amount of weight off the rear and have more stability when loading and unloading while not depending on having the truck hooked up at all times. I load the firewood deck with 2/3rds of a cord at a time and the truck needs to be hooked to the dump trailer under the conveyor while we are running the processor.

Just wondering if anyone has a Hi-Lift and if so, would there be a practical way to mount the jack mechanism to the tube frame of the trailer? I might buy just one jack to look it over, I've been wanting one to have around the farm for some time now.

The trailer looks alot like this one, but it's slightly larger;

 

[kevin j]

how about fulton trailer jacks at each corner? They have ones with telescoping tubes, with a spring loaded pin, so it drops quickly close the the ground or the cribbing, then crank on the handle for the fine adjustment. They are made to weld or bolt on, tilt out of the way, often using the round pipe stub type of mount. Search Northern Tool or similar.

 

[Garmins dad]

Your Highlift jack idea would work.. BUT.. you need to build a sleeve to cover the lift plat so it can be securely fastened to the trailer. I prefer the weld on jack as mentioned above.. Or if you really want to go nice.. add two more ports off your hydro system and add a hydro ram at each back corner. :msp_w00t: truth is.. for the few bucks.. i would prefer that.

 

[GeeVee]

Why stop at two? Go big and put one on all four corners.

 

[Moss Man]

Why stop at two? Go big and put one on all four corners.

The loader has hydraulic downriggers on it already, but when the trailer isn't hooked to a vehicle and you swing a large log over it the tongue wants to lift up.......the rear downriggers should stop that for the most part.....I hope.

 

[ponyexpress976]

I thiny you'd have a tough time mounting the hook portion of the jack to the trailer. The lift hook is cast iron so I'd think drilling and bolting would be out. Plus the jack will have a lot of it's post sticking up above the deck of the trailer which could get in the way. Thirdly, they aren't all that stable to begin with. As mentioned previously, a trailer tongue jack at each corner would probably work much better and be tons safer.

...but since it already has hydraulics?

 

[Moss Man]

I thiny you'd have a tough time mounting the hook portion of the jack to the trailer. The lift hook is cast iron so I'd think drilling and bolting would be out. Plus the jack will have a lot of it's post sticking up above the deck of the trailer which could get in the way. Thirdly, they aren't all that stable to begin with. As mentioned previously, a trailer tongue jack at each corner would probably work much better and be tons safer.

...but since it already has hydraulics?

You'd have to plumb it to the back, 16'+ and the price of two rams and a control valve. The trailer and loader together were $26,000., so I hate to toss too much cash at it. I think the drop down tongue jack mentioned above is the best option, the ones that the mount welds on would be excellent, that way you can take the jacks off when you want to load lumber from the side or whatever. The steel tube uprights are all removable for that reason. I'll look around for the tongue jacks in that size.

The trailer and loader are of a good design and most people wouldn't have any issues with it as long as you have a dedicated truck for it. With the firewood deck constantly needing to be loaded, we need the trailer to work by itself.

 

[brokenbudget]

I thiny you'd have a tough time mounting the hook portion of the jack to the trailer. The lift hook is cast iron so I'd think drilling and bolting would be out. Plus the jack will have a lot of it's post sticking up above the deck of the trailer which could get in the way. Thirdly, they aren't all that stable to begin with. As mentioned previously, a trailer tongue jack at each corner would probably work much better and be tons safer.

...but since it already has hydraulics?

there isn't any 'cast iron' on these jacks. it's called nodular steel. very tough.

 

[Moss Man]

there isn't any 'cast iron' on these jacks. it's called nodular steel. very tough.

I'm not that familiar with "nodular" steel, is it readily weldable like mild steel?

 

[Whitespider]

Might be different in different parts of the country... but, 'round here "down-riggers" are deep water fishing gear and "out-riggers" are the stabilizer legs on cranes, lifts, bucket trucks, trailers and such.

Just sayin' (and I'm not sure why).

 

[brokenbudget]

I'm not that familiar with "nodular" steel, is it readily weldable like mild steel?

:msp_smile: yeah it should be weldable. i've welded a couple, but i aint a pro, so i don't do anything that is going to put somebody in danger.
the snout should have an eyelet or hole under the lift pad. you might want to think about utilizing that and making the jack removable instead of welding it solid. i don't think you need to modify the jack.
keep in mind i don't have any experience with the 'hi-lift' brand, just the 'jack-all' brand, but i don't think there is much difference.
everybody should have atleast one jack-all (or hi-lift) around. they ar so useful for so many jobs.
well worth $75-$100 bucks for one.:msp_smile:

 

[Moss Man]

:msp_smile: yeah it should be weldable. i've welded a couple, but i aint a pro, so i don't do anything that is going to put somebody in danger.
the snout should have an eyelet or hole under the lift pad. you might want to think about utilizing that and making the jack removable instead of welding it solid. i don't think you need to modify the jack.
keep in mind i don't have any experience with the 'hi-lift' brand, just the 'jack-all' brand, but i don't think there is much difference.
everybody should have atleast one jack-all (or hi-lift) around. they ar so useful for so many jobs.
well worth $75-$100 bucks for one.:msp_smile:

I read some reviews on the Tractor Supply site on the one they carry, the Reese brand, and most said it is a cheap knock off off the Hi-Lift brand. So, I'm thinking they vary a bit from brand to brand quality wise.

 

[brokenbudget]

I read some reviews on the Tractor Supply site on the one they carry, the Reese brand, and most said it is a cheap knock off off the Hi-Lift brand. So, I'm thinking they vary a bit from brand to brand quality wise.

i would stick to these 2 brands nothing but quality.

 

[CJ8Ted]

I was reading this thread and will throw my two cents in. I would get two jackstands and put them under the end of the trailer at the corners. Then lower the hyd. out riggers to put preasure on the jackstands, thats it. I love my Hi-Lift but, I think they will get distroyed welded to the end of a trailer. You would also have to pin them somehow to keep them from dropping down (when not in use)


Ted

 

[Patrick62]

I was reading this thread and will throw my two cents in. I would get two jackstands and put them under the end of the trailer at the corners. Then lower the hyd. out riggers to put preasure on the jackstands, thats it. I love my Hi-Lift but, I think they will get distroyed welded to the end of a trailer. You would also have to pin them somehow to keep them from dropping down (when not in use)


Ted

Second that notion! Except, use what you got on hand. Whip out the saw and make a pair of blocks. Then raise it against them.
-Pat

 

[redheadwoodshed]

I was reading this thread and will throw my two cents in. I would get two jackstands and put them under the end of the trailer at the corners. Then lower the hyd. out riggers to put preasure on the jackstands, thats it. I love my Hi-Lift but, I think they will get distroyed welded to the end of a trailer. You would also have to pin them somehow to keep them from dropping down (when not in use)


Ted

That's almost what I was thinking.I'd put some 3" Square tubing collars with a hole drilled all the way through and get 2 pieces of 2 1/2" sqaure tubing that would slide freely in the 3". Drill several holes in the 2 1/2" tubing equally spaced in both pieces.Weld some 8"x8"x1/4" pads to one end.These would slide inside the 3" tubing.
When you get ready to unload or load, pull the pin, lower the 2 1/2" tubing as low as it will go and be able to get the pin back in.Raise the front outriggers, the back out riggers should take some of the load,too.

 

[kevin j]

Now that I can see the picture, it a lot nicer trailer than Ii was thinking. Not a cheap trailer, and I assume time = production = money.
So I'd go with the hydraulic operated ones. The money will be a lot more, but in relation to the cost of the rig not so bad, and in relation to the production time saved. Just pull the storage lock pins, then deploy everything from the valve operating station and go to work.

I'd use the wood blocks for now, but they may get stuck under there as the trailer loads and settles on springs (if it has them).

The nice thing here is that aparently you don't need the outrigers to slide way out and give you stability, you already get that from the front jacks. So the rear only has to go up and down. Makes the construction a lot easier as there are two less motions, and the remaining motions don't have to be sliding/extending ones, just up and down. Much esier to build.
I'd use about 8 feet of tubings, say 3x3 or 4x6 depending on the trailer size. Salvage some old agric tool bars if you can find them. One for each jack. Pivot one end, say on the right side, to the frame. The left side would have the cylinder mounted to move it up and down. run a support rod/pipe from the left side maybe 4 feet towards the front to take the front/rear forces when the trailer on the jack. That might not be necessary. Mirror image another tube, pivoted left side, for the right jack.

Hydr, if you have the extra valve sections (not likely) great. If not, just cut in manually operated 6 port selector valve into two of the existing functions. Commonly available and cheap, they have two lines in from the original valve, and four output ports. Lever to the left (also push pull models) oil goes out two ports to the original function. Lever to the right, oil out to the new rear jacks. Manual, easy to do. Run some steel tubing or sched 80 pipe (not sch 40 pipe) or hoses to the back and done.

Sounds like a lot of work, but mostly saw drill weld, not machining.
I think the production would be worth it.

So there are two extremes from my original jack idea: free wood blocks, to hydraulic operated system.

Really nice setup, sure beats hand labor into a pickup box.

k

 

[Moss Man]

That's almost what I was thinking.I'd put some 3" Square tubing collars with a hole drilled all the way through and get 2 pieces of 2 1/2" sqaure tubing that would slide freely in the 3". Drill several holes in the 2 1/2" tubing equally spaced in both pieces.Weld some 8"x8"x1/4" pads to one end.These would slide inside the 3" tubing.
When you get ready to unload or load, pull the pin, lower the 2 1/2" tubing as low as it will go and be able to get the pin back in.Raise the front outriggers, the back out riggers should take some of the load,too.

Now we're really talking about cost saving and an idea that should really cover the wanted result, I think this will work.

 

[redheadwoodshed]

Now we're really talking about cost saving and an idea that should really cover the wanted result, I think this will work.

I'm glad you can understand my rambling, I could do much better drawing it out, but it is really simple and fairly inexpensive especially if you have welding capabilities and a drill press or are patient with a hand drill.

 

[Moss Man]

I'm glad you can understand my rambling, I could do much better drawing it out, but it is really simple and fairly inexpensive especially if you have welding capabilities and a drill press or are patient with a hand drill.

I do have a welder and a drill press and on top of that I love a good metal fab project!