homemade pex run

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I ended up buying the black split foam 6 foot pieces of pipe insulation and I picked up the solargaurd to wrap it up with. All should squeeze into my 4 inch pvc, 60 foot run. Thanks for all the help. Oh, almost forgot. Lowes wanted 77.99 for 100 foot of 1 inch pex. Home depot wanted 44.99 for the same exact item...same brand and everything. The 4 inch pvc was 4 bucks cheaper per piece at lowes, though. Lots of running around, but for those kind of savings, I'll run. Thanks again.

If you are using a closed system you need a o2 barrier pex not potable water pex lines from lowes or HD Just a FYI
 
It's an open system so keeping oxygen out isn't possible any way. You bring up a good point, though, about the labeling. I noticed that it says in circulating systems, temperature should not exceed 140 degrees. WTF? I see all these people on here saying how the o2 barrier isn't needed...so is there a non-o2 barrier pex for higher temps?
 
Now I'm really confused. The label states like above..."circulating potable system temp should not exceed 140" but printed on the pex itself, it lists the max temps per psi...up to 200 degrees at whatever pressure. So it looks like 180 should be no problem according to the printing on the pipe itself. ugh
 
Now I'm really confused. The label states like above..."circulating potable system temp should not exceed 140" but printed on the pex itself, it lists the max temps per psi...up to 200 degrees at whatever pressure. So it looks like 180 should be no problem according to the printing on the pipe itself. ugh

Potable water is your domestic water in your house, the "plumbing." It should never exceede 140*F because if it did you could scald or burn yourself, spouse, children, etc. Its a saftey issue, not a pipe limitation.
 
I used Zurn pex, rated at 200 deg. Insulated each line with Armaflex, ran it thru 6" corrugated pipe, buried 38". gravel above/below...but, I had 160' total of 2 runs, 1 each to shop/house, cost of Thermopex was too much for my taste..has worked well,but...I'd use T-pex if I had to do over due to the PITA it was to assemble.... no thawing issues.
 
how about pressurizing the outside pipe?

Seems to me that you could seal up the ends of the outer pipe where the inner pipes exit, put it under 3-5 psi of air pressure and that would be double insurance keep out the water. A "T" with an inlet valve and a pressure gauge on one end would allow filling and pressure monitoring. Might sound like a belt and suspenders approach but it works for waveguide transmission line. They use inert gas because it's dry.

>>>not trying to negate anybody else's advice. Just suggesting something to go along with<<
 
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