How do I become a chainsaw mechanic

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Schmams

ArboristSite Lurker
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Grew up helping my dad with his saw at the cottage. Now have my own cottage and recently purchased 2 saws. The Jred runs great and the little Homelite XL1 auto (super ez?) needs a carb kit. All fine thus far...lately I have joined this site and surfed the net about all things chainsaw, here is when all the problem started.

Seems like overnight I have decided I want to work on some saws. Gonna be a zen thing! BTW the little Homie sounds great.... So where do I start? Buy Clymer 600 page manual and purchase a beaten xl1? I heard they would be easy to work on... Are there DVDs available to get me up and running. Does someone want to mentor me via net/ AS?

All ears, any help appreciated.:rock:

Thanks
JC

Ps - given my reference to Homie xl1 the observer likely figured I am Canadian hey?
 
If you want to do it for a job I recommend running now before this mob convince you that you need to buy a new saw every week, I ain't got time to fix all mine now! This addiction has lasted for a while usually I get over things but not this!
 
If you want to learn about saws just take one apart a little, then put it back together. Then after that tear into it a little farther, and put it back together again. And again. And again. And over and over until you can do it in your sleep. Don't go so far that you can't put it back together again and make sure that you don't strip any bolts or threads or anything. This is what I did and I recently put new rings in an 044 turned 046 and it is now pushing 160-170 lbs compression cold. Make sure to take your time so you don't break stuff. In a little while if you keep at it you will have about 12 saws all taken apart spread all over your shop, trying to find the right one to practice port work on. Like me.
 
Get familiar with the search function of this site and just sit back and take it all in. This site is the best and most current resource for anything chainsaw that can be found anywhere. Best guys and most helpful guys hang out here too. Don't be afraid to ask questions if you cant find it in a search. Lots of guys here found this site with little knowledge just like you did and now they can take a saw apart and put it back together with their eyes closed. Have fun and enjoy. You will be up to speed in no time. :wink2:
 
Just start with some junk saws,tear into them ! That is how I got started.

Look through the threads on this site,ask questions even if they are dumb ones ! We all did that,and stihl do ! LOL These people on here will help in most any way they can !

Be warned CAD will get you !! I started with 3 saws bout 2 years ago , its over 200 now ! :D
 
Thanks for the advice guys. So it looks like I will own 4 saws soon. Guy near me wants 75 for a homelite and mcolluck. Will offer him 15 each, pretty sure he just wants to get rid of them. Wait now, maybe I should just wait for the Dolmar 115 auction to end for which I am the high bidder.

Should I bother getting the Clymer manual so I can identify what I am looking at or just get the I.P.L. For the model in question?

CAD is short for chainsaw addiction? I see it everywhere on AS, figure to make sure. If so, early signs definitely present! No Stihl or Husky yet planned. I'll leave that to you pros.

Thanks again all :msp_smile:
 
Thanks for the advice guys. So it looks like I will own 4 saws soon. Guy near me wants 75 for a homelite and mcolluck. Will offer him 15 each, pretty sure he just wants to get rid of them. Wait now, maybe I should just wait for the Dolmar 115 auction to end for which I am the high bidder.

Should I bother getting the Clymer manual so I can identify what I am looking at or just get the I.P.L. For the model in question?

CAD is short for chainsaw addiction? I see it everywhere on AS, figure to make sure. If so, early signs definitely present! No Stihl or Husky yet planned. I'll leave that to you pros.

Thanks again all :msp_smile:

It is not absolutely necessary, but...man, get an air compressor. Clean saws as you are taking them apart. Makes it much easier to work on and clean saws run better and sell better.

The above other advice is right on, just get junkers and start fixing them up. It doesn't take long, people are handing you saws for freebie, you get them cheap, etc and next building 10,000 square foot addition to hold saws and work benches..well, maybe, but it does happen...

This site is BIG, goes back years, you would be hard pressed to not find threads on this or that saw model or repair or modification. Way more information here over some book I think.
 
If they could contain this site between the bindings of a book, it would be the chainsaw bible bro. The guys here are super cool people and will help with anything. You'll find out that there are people here for every brand of saw who can help with problems. From husky or stihl all the way to power products engines or mall saws. Enjoy yourself man and... Welcome to the matrix.

Loco
 
Start spinnin' wrenches, get stumped, ask questions, read, fix problem, repeat as required. Most problems aren't that difficult to solve and the machines themselves aren't very complicated either.
 
Paul Dempsey wrote a very useful book on troubleshooting and repairing 2-strokes. 2-strokes are quite unlike 4-strokes, so it helps to have insights to their behavior. Even their carbs are weird, but can be gotten to work.

Mine's loaned out right now or I'd give you the exact title.

The Clymer book is very helpful too, since so many design aspects of chainsaws are different. Helps to keep you from running afoul of their many quirks.
 
Do all of the above...then Get a camera and figure out how to post here. Be humble in your requests, be honest when asked and offer help when not. Pay it forward. Someone will help you in ways you never imagined. Most of us here treat each other better then family. We all got some strange attraction to really loud dangerous stuff that can kill you when not paying attention.
Welcome and best of luck.
 
if you want to be a certified small engine mechanic in Canada you need to take the small engines coarse. it is 4 years of schooling with work credits at a shop on time off. first year is 8 months and the next 3 are 6 weeks. if you get a job at a shop you can work a certain amount of hours then skip the first 3 years jumping to the 4th right away. then all you have to do is challenge the test. if you choose just to work on saws with no certification fix old junk till you got it down like the others said. they are very simple machines compared to others. enjoy your time with saws :cheers:
 
CAD - Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder?

That would cover what I'm feeling having "technically" bought the last saw I need.

One might break so I'll need a spare, for all of them :)
 
Started rebuilding saws last year. Youtube vids gave me the initial confidence to get deeper into a saw's mechanicals. Some very well informed members here and to a lesser extent the shop manuals have done the rest. It's just a fun hobbie for me and for some reason I'm left in peace when the work bench is covered with bits and I start talking about saws...

It's also been satisfying helping friends with their small engine issues as well. Started with Dad's dodgy old Ryobi line trimmer and now it's moved onto saws and commercial mowers. Usually get paid in beer or cake :)
 
Last edited:
here we go ECHO 302

So it started last night..I was looking for a good starter saw to get going on and didn't want to take it to my Homelite...so I went to check out an ECHO 302. Guy wanted $50 for it and wasn't negotiable. Kid who showed it to me got it to idle after two pulls but saw would die out when he gave it gas...probably explains why he was selling it...."wasn't working". Tried to get it to run a second time and broke the starter rope....walked away with it for $20 and a project to boot!

Couldn't believe I basically had to strip both outside covers and remove the handle assembly to get into the starter housing...fixed the rope which was good for the confidence and then cleaned around where I could with carb cleaner....boy was the multiple suggestions to get an air compressor spot on. If there is one thing I have told myself is that I will buy myself some tools now before another saw....

Cleaned the exhaust with carb cleaner, let dry and reassembled....Question. Is it OK to use carb cleaner and if there is a better overall cleaner/degreaser I would appreciate the input. While I had the muffler assembly off I noticed the intake base gasket was basically caked on...Didn't try to remove it, but should I be changing this gasket? If so, how am I going to pry it off (don't want crud to make its way to the cylinder...)

Lastly, the chain tensioner is somehow bent inward. How am I going to get it out of there to replace it?

Overall a great first night on a saw....carb next :msp_sneaky:
 
So it started last night..I was looking for a good starter saw to get going on and didn't want to take it to my Homelite...so I went to check out an ECHO 302. Guy wanted $50 for it and wasn't negotiable. Kid who showed it to me got it to idle after two pulls but saw would die out when he gave it gas...probably explains why he was selling it...."wasn't working". Tried to get it to run a second time and broke the starter rope....walked away with it for $20 and a project to boot!

Couldn't believe I basically had to strip both outside covers and remove the handle assembly to get into the starter housing...fixed the rope which was good for the confidence and then cleaned around where I could with carb cleaner....boy was the multiple suggestions to get an air compressor spot on. If there is one thing I have told myself is that I will buy myself some tools now before another saw....

Cleaned the exhaust with carb cleaner, let dry and reassembled....Question. Is it OK to use carb cleaner and if there is a better overall cleaner/degreaser I would appreciate the input. While I had the muffler assembly off I noticed the intake base gasket was basically caked on...Didn't try to remove it, but should I be changing this gasket? If so, how am I going to pry it off (don't want crud to make its way to the cylinder...)

Lastly, the chain tensioner is somehow bent inward. How am I going to get it out of there to replace it?

Overall a great first night on a saw....carb next :msp_sneaky:


it sounds like the saw just needed the low-end fattened up a touch.

if it's able to idle thats a good thing that means 95% chance theres no air leaks

theres a lot of saws outthere you have to split the "shell" a mini mac is like the matterhorn..

the chain tensioner you'll have to cut out save the nut with the tab i think you can replace it with a 10-24 screw

hope that helps
 
I have to ask the OP: do you want to do this for a living or just as a hobby/extra income? I've enjoyed working on mechanical things since I was a kid and was a car mechanic for my first career. When you have to depend on an activity for a living the fun factor goes way down and the stress and BS goes way up. Learning on the job is a pretty rough way to start out. You'll either be doing busywork and mopping the floor or struggling to turn out finished jobs because you don't yet have the experience or training. Yeah, I've been there and it SUCKS.

If you are seriously thinking about doing this for a living I would advise you to see about getting a part time gig with a small engine shop. Work at it awhile and see if you like it. Be sure to have an honest talk with fellow techs about what kind of income you can expect and what kind of responsibilities you'll have. Be advised that, at least here in the states, your job benefits such as health insurance and vacation are going to be very modest and many small shops offer none at all. Finally (as if I haven't rained on your parade enough) you will be expected to work on anything that comes through that door, not just chainsaws. This may include trucks and ag equipment.

I'm really not trying to talk you out of it, I just hope you will carefully study this before you decide to change careers. After 10-1/2 years working on cars, mostly as a Toyota dealership tech, I hung it up and got an office job.
 
it sounds like the saw just needed the low-end fattened up a touch.

if it's able to idle thats a good thing that means 95% chance theres no air leaks

theres a lot of saws outthere you have to split the "shell" a mini mac is like the matterhorn..

the chain tensioner you'll have to cut out save the nut with the tab i think you can replace it with a 10-24 screw

hope that helps

super, thanks for the input. I will get my metal saw out tonight...it would be great if I didn't need to rebuild the carb.
 

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