How do you guys sharpen chains?

[fields_mj]

I've often wondered if it's worth sharpening a chain. Would you be better off just getting a new chain everytime youj need one. If you buy a spool of chain and make your own you have around $11 in a 16" chain. If I don't hit anything I can easily cut 3-4 cords with a chain before it gets to dull. I have thought about just cutting until a chain is dull then swappiong a new one. Once you have 5 dull ones sell them on e-bay. I bet they would average $7-8 a piece. If that is the case it only costs you about $1 a cord to have a new chain everytime you cut. Now if you rock one it will cost you a couple dollars more. Has anyone else thought about doing this?

Scott

A brand new chain doesn't last that long for me. I cut Oak, Hickory, Locust, and some Ash. Even in perfectly clean wood with a brand new chain, after the 3rd tank, it really needs touched up, and after a 4th tank, it's just plain dull. If you're cutting 3 cords with out sharpening, you're cutting some pretty soft wood, AND you are working at it a lot more than you need to.

Personally, I don't have any need for a grinder. The Granberg jig allows me to file a rocked out chain back into shape. Sure, it takes me 20 min or so to file a really messed up chain, but compaired to the price of a decent grinder, and considering that I only do it to each chain once a year, the idea of a grinder just seems like a complete waste of my $$. At that point, I'd rather either pay to have them sharpened once a year, or toss the chain and replace it.

As far as the rakers go, I check them about once a year and they rarely need anything done to them.

 

[memory]

I may look into that Granberg system. What kind of stores would carry them? Would TSC have them, what about Harbor Freight? I looked at them on ebay and noticed you have to buy the file seperate. How do you find out what file size you need?

 

[CTYank]

I may look into that Granberg system. What kind of stores would carry them? Would TSC have them, what about Harbor Freight? I looked at them on ebay and noticed you have to buy the file seperate. How do you find out what file size you need?

It's called "File-n-Joint" and you can get one from Bailey's, for one. I'll bet Granberg can list vendors, at least.

Been using the same one for over 30 yrs. Simplest way I've found to keep nice consistent razors, and remove minimal metal. Makes life easier for bar, engine, etc. too, of course.

For .050" gauge 3/8" -> 7/32" round file, for low-prof .050" gauge 3/8" or 1/4" -> 5/32" round file. I got some "laser" files long back, and they seem to last forever in this guide. (Do NOT use rat-tail file.)

One poster mentioned having (2) of these guides, one for each side of cutters. Totally unnecessary- takes a few sec to flip the guide from side to side.

 

[memory]

Can you get the files at any hardware store or do they need to be a certain kind?

 

[RPrice]

Can you get the files at any hardware store or do they need to be a certain kind?

They are round files specifically made for chain saw cutters, see post above yours. You DO NOT use "rat tail files"

Any Chain Saw supply will have the correct files for the pitch of your chain. Take your saw to the dealer and get the right ones. You'll need a flat file for the "rakers" (depth gauges).

 

[memory]

Can you give me an example of a rat tale file and a chain file? According to the box the chain came in, I need a 3/16 file.

Would this be what I need?
Bailey's - Husqvarna 3/16" Single Cut Round Files - 2 Pack

Would this work as well?
Chainsaw Files 3/16" - .325" Pitch Chain (6 pack) - eBay (item 250780957244 end time Mar-29-11 18:16:53 PDT)

Does the brand really matter that much?

 

[RPrice]

Can you give me an example of a rat tale file and a chain file? According to the box the chain came in, I need a 3/16 file.

Would this be what I need?
Bailey's - Husqvarna 3/16" Single Cut Round Files - 2 Pack

Would this work as well?
Chainsaw Files 3/16" - .325" Pitch Chain (6 pack) - eBay (item 250780957244 end time Mar-29-11 18:16:53 PDT)

Does the brand really matter that much?

Yes, either would work if the pitch of the chain is .325, they are round files, not rat tail files. I don't think the brand matters that much.

 

[pacman]

Grab a roller file guide for 10 bucks or so from your Husky-jred dealer.
pretty soon you'll be sharpening chains that will be faster than new.

I have seen this before. Tell more about it please. Thanks M P

 

[RPrice]

Rat tail files taper along their length, just like a rat's tail! You don't want to use this for chain saw cutters, you need a round file.

 

[jackstock394]

lots of good advice in the above post

How do I sharpen my chains?It all depends on the conditions.And it should for you as well!
Grinders are fine, but if you want maximum life out of your chains, then you need to buckle down and learn to hand file.I dont care how careful you are with a grinder,its going to take more meat off than a file.However, there are times when a grinder is the tool for the job.

Learn to hand file.Its quicker to file a chain than to swap it out unless you are running a long bar.I can still file a 28 inch chain faster than I can swap it out.File often, dont wait until the dang thing isnt cutting anymore, the bar is smoking, and you are wearing your arms out pressing the thing through the wood.Keep the tip out of the dirt,watch for metal when you can, and dont lend the dang thing to a co worker.
Eventually, you are going to kiss the ground, hit some barb wire,or your wife will lose her mind and loan it to her sisters boyfriends best friend who lives in a rock pile,and you will be faced with a rocked out chain.Good time to turn to the grinder.

First off, get rid of the wife.If you are scared of her rolling pin, wait until she goes to sleep.No point in sharpening your chain just to have her loan the thing back out. For a small fee several freight companies will pick up a box even if its kicking and screaming.PM me if you need their contact number.

The idea with a grinder is to restore a chain back to its profile,so take it easy.Remove no more metal than necessary,and take your time.blue teeth are a great way to spruce up your saw,but they dont cut very well for very long.Let the chain cool a second or two between swipes if you need to.Any time you grind a chain, you also need to look at your rakers.Chances are, you will need to lower them if you want any production out of them.Get a gauge, dont just count on the "three swipes per raker" method because a file does not always take the same amount per file.Rakers that are set an uneven depth will cause the chain to surge in the wood, and make for a very jerky cut.Again, precision is what you should strive for.Speed will come later as you learn.

Any questions?

The above info is great.Drill into your head "DO NOT RUN A CHAIN TO THE POINT WHERE IT WILL NOT CUT" i did just that the first 3 seasons i cut firewood. Lots of sore muscles and chains trashed to the point of only a pro quality grinder is gonna staighten it out.find an old timer who cut timber lots of years, have them teach you to hand file. It will amaze you what you can learn ,and it will become alot easier to get the firewood in without destroying your body.

 

[TMFARM 2009]

well i had some poulan chains left over, so i took rakers almost off. this was a trick i learned a while back, i wouldn't run oregon - carlisle or a good stihl chain this way. poulan s chains dull quickly (softer metal). so if you drop rakers drastically it will cut longer per sharpening.
i file sharpen, i have a grinder but it takes me too long per chain. i haven't got the hang of it, and my time is at a real premium now days. i can hand file one razor sharp in minutes it will last usually four tank fulls or so. i dont use guide tools i have tried a few didn't like them. so i kept practicing freehand.

 

[Sagetown]

This method is probably the best teacher a chain filer can have. It gives you precision cuts on the Cutter teeth. With experience your eyes begin to pick up on the Rakers height in comparison with the Cutters. Using a Depth Gauge and flat file also helps.

But after getting adjusted to the electric Disc grinders, once set-up and ruining a few old worn out chains ~ they're pretty much a no-brainer (that's what I like).

Hey; TMFARM ~ how in the world do you get 4 tanks to a sharpening?? Wish I could. I'm cutting mostly elm and red oak, so that's part of my problem. I've filed a few chains rakers close to 0.30" and they'll sure take a bite out of those logs, but I don't know about going any deeper. lol........:msp_biggrin:

 

[TMFARM 2009]

if you lay a gauge on the bar and chain it shows two lines one is i believe 30 deg. the other is 25 deg. i run 25 deg. .325 50 gauge chain.lpx to be exact. but rakers are set at 25 not 30. now on the poulan chains i take the ramps clear off.safety chains i believe... still has a small raker too but i drop them a little more, you literally have to hold it up off the wood at first it bites deep and hard.i cut hedge oak walnut elm maple what ever i get in a fence row.heck even metal posts some times...lol
i wouldn't get too radical if you dont cut a lot. it can and will hurt you quick....i have had some ground by a dealer here but only if they are torn up real badly.he evens them out pretty nicely...it seems to me the straighter you file the edge across the quicker it dulls.. but thats just me.i have done this for a long time. it works for me.
the chains are so sharp you want to wear gloves when messing with them, or you get cut. thats when i know the chains sharp....i usually sharpen setting at the table. i clamp on a portable vise lock down the saw and file while watching tv. i will do 6 chains at a time usually. bag them three to a bag zip lock sandwich bags and label them for size. ( due to having three sizes in the box) i am looking at getting the power sharp for one of my cs370's to use and see if its worth it.
if it can hold up to cutting fence rows it will pay off for me.
i dont sharpen while out in the field i change out chains while fueling saves time for me.for me time is money and daylight....if i grab a chain and it doenst cut right i change it out right then. i dont fight it. i tag it with black tape and re bag it. sharpen it again later.hardest part is keeping each side equal on the teeth so it doesn't cut crooked in big logs. i hope this helps

 

[StihlKiwi]

well i had some poulan chains left over, so i took rakers almost off. this was a trick i learned a while back, i wouldn't run oregon - carlisle or a good stihl chain this way. poulan s chains dull quickly (softer metal). so if you drop rakers drastically it will cut longer per sharpening.

Grinding the rakers down low will greatly increase the chances of bad kickback and can also put a lot more strain on the clutch, damaging it in some cases

 

[Sagetown]

I take extra chains to the woods also, and they are extreemly sharp, but there is no way mine can hold an edge, on oak and especially hedge, through 4 tanks of fuel. Two tanks and I'm ready to change out the chain . I could probably stretch it some, but I don't like my saws screaming and spitting sawdust. I want them making chainsaw music and throwing chips.:msp_biggrin:

 

[EXCALIBER]

Learn to hand file.Its quicker to file a chain than to swap it out unless you are running a long bar.I can still file a 28 inch chain faster than I can swap it out.

I would love to see a video of anyone sharpening that fast! Even if you run a full skip and only two or three strokes of the file, its gonna take a few minutes at least. I can take the two bar nuts off, clean the Bar groove, and flip the bar over, install new chain in under a minute or so. I usually just carry five or six chains with me, or as many as are needed to cut all day without sharpening, then file the chains at home, watching tv, drinking a cold one. I find I end up doing a better job in a more controlled environment, and when I am not in a huge hurry to get back to cutting.

Like Avalancher said, there are times to use a grinder. The rule of thumb is to use grinder after a rocked chain, or when your hand grinding gets uneven, just to get length or angle back on track to factory specs. Usually every 6 to 10 sharpenings tough it with the grinder. I will warn many people NOT to take your chain to the dealer or anyone else (unless you know they will do a top job) as I have found they tend to cut way too much off your chain, and overheat it.

 

[atvdave]

I was wondering how do you sharpen your chainsaw chains? Do you sharpen them by hand or with a machine? Whenever we have ours sharpened, we take them to somebody we know that has a machine that sharpens them. His machine is similar to this: Carlton 510C 510B Chainsaw Chain Sharpener Oregon 510A - eBay (item 170606196851 end time Mar-22-11 10:41:00 PDT). It is not that same brand but same concept.

We just had to buy a new bar and some new chains for our saw. I have noticed that the new chains are a whole lot sharper than the ones we have sharpened. Maybe the machine is not sharpening the chains just right.

I just got that grinder from Edge & Engine. The Carlton 510C. (it's $169 if you buy from his web sight, Oregon [ORE 510C] Carlton Bench Chain Grinder (Same as Oregon 510A, Carlton 510B) - $169.00 ).

There is a learning curve for sharping a chain on a grinder. It takes time, and you don't want to try to grind the chain too fast.

In the field I to touch-up work with a hand file, but if it gets too far gone I use the grinder.

 

[dingeryote]

I would love to see a video of anyone sharpening that fast! Even if you run a full skip and only two or three strokes of the file, its gonna take a few minutes at least. I can take the two bar nuts off, clean the Bar groove, and flip the bar over, install new chain in under a minute or so. I usually just carry five or six chains with me, or as many as are needed to cut all day without sharpening, then file the chains at home, watching tv, drinking a cold one. I find I end up doing a better job in a more controlled environment, and when I am not in a huge hurry to get back to cutting.

Like Avalancher said, there are times to use a grinder. The rule of thumb is to use grinder after a rocked chain, or when your hand grinding gets uneven, just to get length or angle back on track to factory specs. Usually every 6 to 10 sharpenings tough it with the grinder. I will warn many people NOT to take your chain to the dealer or anyone else (unless you know they will do a top job) as I have found they tend to cut way too much off your chain, and overheat it.

Avalancher is missing three fingers, wears an eye patch, and has a sponsorship from Red Bull.

He files with the chain moving at a high idle, using a file in each hand, to save time..

SaveEdge is consulting with Avalancher on the design of the worlds first water cooled files.

He ain't blazing fast, you're just NASCAR pit crew fast swapping a chain.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[EXCALIBER]

Avalancher is missing three fingers, wears an eye patch, and has a sponsorship from Red Bull.

He files with the chain moving at a high idle, using a file in each hand, to save time..

SaveEdge is consulting with Avalancher on the design of the worlds first water cooled files.

He ain't blazing fast, you're just NASCAR pit crew fast swapping a chain.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

LMAO now that is some funny stuff:msp_lol:

 

[GeeVee]

I use a Dremel tool and only have one spare chain for each saw at this point.

I had a truck stolen in 2008 and lost eight (yellow) Stihl chains, two pair of chaps, two hearing protection w/radio, a collection of gloves, Two hard hats, pruning saws and shears, and a rechargeable Dremel- which I never bothered with. .

At the time I would dull them all and take them to a friend in the rental business and he'd sharpen them all over a six pack of beer with his Oregon Grinder.

Now I have to find other reasons to take beer to his place.

Chains are cheap.

I had always done them myself in my former business life, and when I sold and got out of the Poverty class- I amassed a significant Stihl collection and needed a reason to hang with my friend. I suplussed everything and settled on just three saws, and it significantly reduced my shelf inventory of parts and supplies.

Using the Dremel is very fast- on the saw in the field. I grind often, and am unconcerned about how small the teeth get. As long as they are all there, all the same "length", and produce chips, the chain will stay on the saw.

I do NOT make saw dust.

I do flip the bar over about every three days of cutting.

Often here I hear argument about chains and sharpening, like they cost a ton of money, kind of like the cost of Gas/oil and fuel consumption....

Pshaw. Tools don't cost- they pay.

Whichever way you choose, just sharpen more often than you think you need. Me? I don't do anything by hand I can get done with power. The Dremel means I don't have to have a million chains or work on them at home.