How do you guys sharpen chains?

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I usually file sharpen my chains. Since my left isn't a strong as my right I normally make 3 or 4 strokes with my left and 2 with the right, which kinda keeps 'em a little more even.

When they get too far outta whack I put 'em on the grinder. I clamp a regulated air line to my stand and blow it on the tooth to keep it cool, makes alot of difference.

Mike
 
Grab a roller file guide for 10 bucks or so from your Husky-jred dealer.
pretty soon you'll be sharpening chains that will be faster than new.
00000155848da01.jpg

I use those as well. When NT was going to stop selling Husky stuff I bought their entire inventory at a buck sixty per. I use a grinder for rocked chains and a file for touch up.
 
Grab a roller file guide for 10 bucks or so from your Husky-jred dealer.
pretty soon you'll be sharpening chains that will be faster than new.
00000155848da01.jpg

I have seen this before. Tell more about it please. Thanks M P

This one sets right on the chain and I think it is quicker and just as accurate (with practice) as the Granberg. It grabs right onto the chain and keeps the file at the right depth. With the granberg the chain will rock a bit with a worn bar groove or the chain will ride up abit and your depth isn't as accurate.
It doesn't take long to use one of these. Wish I had a video to show.
I may have to work on that.
 
Grab a roller file guide for 10 bucks or so from your Husky-jred dealer.
pretty soon you'll be sharpening chains that will be faster than new.
00000155848da01.jpg

I have seen this before. Tell more about it please. Thanks M P

I used to flame people for using a filing guide, as at the time, I hadn't found one that didnt take 3 days to setup and use (granberg) or one that would cut as fast as my free-handed chains. Then I got one of these cheapy looking roller guides from the local home store. And well, they work, there fast, and admittedly keep the angles better than my free-hand filing, and so simple, that my 4 year old could do it. They also will fit in your pocket, unlike others (grandberg). I have a Grandberg, and it just sit's in the toolbox, unused. Same sad story for my grinder. IMHO, these are the Husky Roller Guide is the BEST filing guide out there. Period.
 
rakers?

I hand filed for years , then I found the granberg file system , it was a dream come true. it files the same all the time , I give it 3 stroaks and I move on, I have 2 Granbergs , 1 for each side.

TEDMI

--I see it does the cutters, but does that jig also hold a flat file for the rakers?
 
Oregon 511A

Here's a pic with the bench vise mount I made for it:

ChainsawSharpener06.jpg


I could also wall mount it:

ChainsawSharpener02.jpg


ChainsawSharpener03.jpg


This machine is very well made and really works. You can pick one up on e-bay for less than $200 these days. I believe the new models are close to $400.

A friend gave me a Harbor Freight grinding machine for nothing. I use it for lowering the rakers and that's about all. It's lousy engineering compared to the Italian-made Oregon. I found the learning curve for using it rather short and the results excellent. I have saved enough chains that loggers have thrown away to pay for the machine several times over. It's quiet, bulb lit, and a pleasure to use.
 
I secure my saw in a heavy bench vise and hand file with a filing guide. No complaints here.

If I had dozens of chains and a business depended on them, I'd probably get a nice electric chain grinder to save some time.
 
I can't use a file without my saw making a nice curved cut. That being the case, i used to use the dremel attachment which worked okay. I also brought them to my local shop to have them sharped by them to the tune of $7 each. Last spring I bought the Northern Tool grinder and couldn't be happier. Took me about 15/20 minutes to set it up and it works great. It takes me a couple minutes a chain and it's always sharp and consistent.
 
Northern Tool = Oregon

I can't use a file without my saw making a nice curved cut. That being the case, i used to use the dremel attachment which worked okay. I also brought them to my local shop to have them sharped by them to the tune of $7 each. Last spring I bought the Northern Tool grinder and couldn't be happier. Took me about 15/20 minutes to set it up and it works great. It takes me a couple minutes a chain and it's always sharp and consistent.
+1. Similar history for me. Started out file sharpening, moved to a cylinder grinder (Granberg), gave up on that after 10 years, and bought the Oregon (similar to Northern Tool's disk grinder).

Now I'm really satisfied. :blob2:

Hope you liked my bench mount. It works. (But, you need a 12v grinder or file at the jobsite if you forgot to bring two chains. I never do forget that.)
 
I learned / taught myself how to hand file this year...so far it's been working out well. Little bit more patience then when I was late teens / early 20s and used to cut curves when I tried :hmm3grin2orange: Watched some YouTube videos and read some stuff I found here and on Google.

I probably still push it one or two gas tanks too far before I sharpen.

Timed myself this morning at 10 minutes.
 
My Dad and Grandpa were loggers back in the mid 30's. I don't know what they used back then, but Dad taught me to use a file long before I ever heard of a Shop doing it commercially. Then last year I had a tempory case of 'Tennis Elbow'. I could to most anything but use a file. That's when I purchased a Northern Grinder and I sure like it.:msp_biggrin::hmm3grin2orange:
 
i use both the grinder and hand filing. as other have said the grinder keeps everything consistent, and the file puts the edge the cutters.

-matt
 
a file, pfred guide, $8 stump vise

Abolutely!
-Oregon 12v power grinder is in the truck for severe damage, only.
-I use a cheap Granberg type system, for recooping/aligning, when at home on the deck. (It is straighter than I THINK I am!)

-But when it just comes down to cutting on the job and touching up, 99% of the time, I am hand filing. ( round file, and the Pferd round & flat file Combo to keep the humps right.) You do ANYTHING long enough and you learn the right/best techniques and you get skilled at it.
- Lots of devices work. It comes down to your time to money factor. Losing time costs= something with less set up? - Time doesn't cost you much=more setup?
Either way, More practice/use= less time as you get better at that device.

Which is best? "The one YOU are best at! Can afford. While keeping the chain cutting properly, in the time you allow.", seems like a good answer.
:msp_smile: "4 Methods+ is just consumerism!" or a pro shop!:msp_laugh:
IMHO
 
roller

Grab a roller file guide for 10 bucks or so from your Husky-jred dealer.
pretty soon you'll be sharpening chains that will be faster than new.
00000155848da01.jpg

where can a guy fined these , and how do you know which one for your saw, would like to try them .

TEDMI
 
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