How do you maintain your saws?

[bearsfeat]

I just got a new MS250 - the dealer told me that I should run high test in all my small engines because of the additives "they" are adding to the gas these days and that fuel stabilizer does not work for as long now for the same reason. I asked about long term storage and he said "don't". Run the engine for 5 or ten minutes every month at least. Don't let it sit longer than that.

and...

fresh gas fresh gas fresh gas

I have heard also that running a 2 stroke out of (oil) regularly is not the best idea.

I also am of the belief that letting any diaphram carb sit dry for a length of time is asking for it to dry rot. Not sure about the elastomers "they" use for making those parts these days and if that is a real concern, but the thing is meant to be wet with gas, I think - so, if that is true, I would guess it is best to let it be that way.

Besides, if yer on here reading this, you should feel ashamed to let your saw sit for that long.

Lawnmowers, on the other hand...

my 2 pennies...

-bearsfeat

 

[wood4heat]

I usually just blow the air filter out after a days cutting. When I'm done for the season I'll pull the bar and blow everything out with an air gun including the bar groves and oiler hole. Wipe everything down, put it back together and flip the bar at this time. I'll run it till the chain is oiled up, dump the fuel and let it idle till it dies. I leave the chain loose when it's stored as well.

I don't buy the old tale that running out of gas will hurt a two stroke. Maybe if your running wide open under load but at idle it won't hurt anything. If you ever had one apart they're pretty well oil coated on the inside. I'm also not worried about diaphragms or gaskets drying out. I've got equipment over ten years old that I've drained every year and I've never had carb problems.

Never have greased the roller bearing though. I'll have to start doing that.

 

[BarkBuster20]

okay every 2 1/2 gallons of fuel i will flip my bar. at the end of every day i will remove the bar/chain and case and take the compressor to it and make sure everything is cleaned off, i will even run the air compressor down the bar (tip first) to clean the groove out really well.. and my mix is not to lean whatsoever when your saw is running out of gas it will usually always bog down a bit right before it dies it just dont go from full rev to dead instantly i would say if it did that it was prolly to lean. and ill also get the air filter with the compressor. tere my .2

 

[propliner]

My parts washer always has about 2" of varsol in it. I remove the bar cover, bar and chain and set the saw and parts in the tank. With a soft paint brush I wash everything out under the cover and around the cylinder area and add a few drops of oil to the clutch bearing after blowing everything dry. For the air filter, I just throw it in with the laundry... it comes out clean and white and smells spring fresh!

 

[BarkBuster20]

what do you mean you "put it in the tank"?

 

[GASoline71]

RTFM

Gary

 

[Rusty99]

I take mine to the car wash, i put a zip lock baggy over the air filer, tun the choke on and give her a high pressure washing, spotless rinse and hot wax treatment, u would be amazed how well this works. Only do this about 4 times a year tho

I'm cleaning up a really dirty MS 250 right now and was talking with the local dealer and he also suggested the car wash.

I've taken the muffler, pull start side cover, air filter cover, bar & chain, airfilter and airfilter holder off the saw.

I'm planning to close the choke and tape off the hole where the muffler mounts on. Then spray some "purple degreaser on the saw, then rinse at car wash.

Aside from spraying too close and hard at the car wash are there any other precautions I need to take before hitting the car wash? Do I need to block hole where the airfilter holder attaches?

The car wash has a compressed hose but I don't at home, should I be drying it off with some air in certain parts.

I just don't want to mess the saw up by getting water in places it will harm.

Thanks for your input.:greenchainsaw:

 

[JJay03]

Ahh man there is an 066 in the trading post I want to get that thing and clean it up.
^ Super clean does a great job of getting grease off also Rusty.

 

[thejdman04]

Personally I blow it off with the air compressor every now and then and thats about it.

 

[Rusty99]

After I have is degreased and given good wash, compressed air what I'll use for quick weekly cleaning.

But what I'm really interested in is what parts to block off not to get what in and wreck it.

Your thoughts

 

[AT sawyer]

Don't forget to set your little parts - screws, clips, bearings, etc.. - way to the side. If you leave them loose around the powerhead and cut loose with your air compressor, they'll be gone like a f@rt in a whirlwind.

 

[Rusty99]

Wow what a difference!! I just got back from the car wash and the saw looks a million times better. Got a little scared I got water inside the cylinder (or whatever you call it where the muffler bolts on?) when my duct tape blew off. So I asked the carwash attendant for a rag to stuff inside as someone else suggested.

I started the saw up when I got home and run pretty good. but super loud and seemed fast without the muffler.

great tips on cleaning your saws, thanks.

 

[Raymond]

Wow what a difference!! I just got back from the car wash and the saw looks a million times better. Got a little scared I got water inside the cylinder (or whatever you call it where the muffler bolts on?) when my duct tape blew off. So I asked the carwash attendant for a rag to stuff inside as someone else suggested.

I started the saw up when I got home and run pretty good. but super loud and seemed fast without the muffler.

great tips on cleaning your saws, thanks.

A carwash at this time of night in Canada...BURRR!

 

[Kemper]

Just got my new saw and want to keep it nice. What procedures do you guys do to keep the saw in good operating condition. How often do you clean the saw? How far down do you take the saw for cleaning? I just lightly used the saw last time I had it out so I just wiped it down a bit but didnt take off the b&c. Reading in the manual it talks some about cleaning the oil and gas tanks also. Just need some tips.

Remove bar and chain and use the air hose.

 

[Austin1]

Winter time nothing more than a blow off with the Compressor. Flip the bar lube the tip Yes I am a tip luber! Spring/ Fall They get the garden hose and a scrub with Dawn dish detergent then run at idle to make sure the water evaporates.Plus the normal bar cleaning and I do flush out my oil tank with diesel if they sit for a long time as I run Canola. Oh ya for a photo op they get the Turtle wax treatment and some air brushing and one of them little Pine trees hanging off the handle bar:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Philbert]

I'm planning to close the choke and tape off the hole where the muffler mounts on. Then spray some "purple degreaser on the saw, then rinse at car wash.

Check the purple degreaser bottle - probably contains lye (sodium hydroxide) which is pretty caustic. Probably don't need the high pressure wash either.

I use a water soluble, citrus based cleaner/degreaser sold in the the auto parts aisle. Swish it around with a cut off paint brush and old toothbrush. Cuts through the oil pretty well and wipes or rinses off easily. Also takes the oil out my hands pretty well, so sometimes wear thin nitrile gloves. Dry with rags and compressed air, if available.

Take a little extra care cleaning out the oil supply hole and blowing out the air filter from the inside out.

One of the advantages of cleaning your saw is that you are also looking for loose or missing fasteners, cracks, worn sprockets, frayed starter ropes, worn bar edges, etc.

Other than that, pretty much what the others said:
- Keep it clean.
- Keep the chain sharp.
- Only use fresh gas.

Philbert

 

[blsnelling]

Remove bar and chain and use the air hose.

+1, everytime I use them.

 

[JJay03]

Yeah I know Gary but, it seems that at the end of the day when I cleanerup that Needle ,Roller bearing looks and feels DRY. I'm not sure if it's the high R.P.M's of the saw. I know a guy who never greased the bearing and it was one of those all metal one's and when he went to replace sprocket it was like WELDED to the crank shaft, No **** MANG. I usually LET-R- RUN and GET-R- DUN.

Took off my bar and chain to clean her up today after I was finished. Took off the clip and the clutch housing and cleaned everything up. Also put a bit of grease on the roller bearing. I noticed there is a little notch in the side of the clutch cover not a special way it has to go on is there wouldnt think it matters? I got it all back together and will be putting my other chain on and sharpening the original. I took some pictures too so ill post those later.

 

[Philbert]

I noticed there is a little notch in the side of the clutch cover not a special way it has to go on is there wouldnt think it matters?

YES ! ! !

That little notch lines up with the little wire rod that drives your oil pump!

Do you just use regular wheel bearing grease?

I was told to use a high temp, lithium grease. STIHL sells a little toothpaste style tube of it for about $5. Not the cheapest solution, but very convenient for the saw tool box.

Philbert

 

[alderman]

Something I noticed

The compressed air doesn't remove all of the gunk from the bar slot so I still use a depth guage to scrape the slot clean.