How much bar oil is correct?

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If I am the one selling you your bars and chains I say you need to use as little as possible. Keep adding a bit more oil until it stops getting hot. Also make sure your chain is nice and snug or really lose. Not in between.
 
Oiler at max just that simple. The advice you were given will save you thousands in the long run. As someone stated oil is cheap so why take the risk?
 
Because being wasteful and messy when there's no reason to is annoying. There's no benefit to running the oilier above the level necessary to actually do the job and that required amount is going to vary with bar length and wood conditions. I'd like to know how to actually tune the system properly to the work I'm doing.
 
Because being wasteful and messy when there's no reason to is annoying. There's no benefit to running the oilier above the level necessary to actually do the job and that required amount is going to vary with bar length and wood conditions. I'd like to know how to actually tune the system properly to the work I'm doing.

Dildo alert!

Wasteful? Messy? Annoying? Tune the system properly? What a steaming load of bullcrap there buddy! Do you actually run saws? Obviously not, and you are just trolling for another fight on AS, like a typical Brush Ape would. Good luck tuning your bar oilers to the exact proper amount given the bar, the wood that you are cutting, the temperature, the crud on the bar at any given time, and many other variables that you are likely not aware of or have ever worked in.

Why the fork would you care if you use more oil, as opposed to burning a bar and stretching chains? Crank the oilers all the way up and forget about it. Use Canola oil if you are worried about the environment. $5 a gallon at WalMart here. More oil does not matter one lick that way. I have yet to see any 'mess' as a result of any bar oil setting, save for my 026 non-PRO saws that pool when they sit at idle. But there is no oil setting on those saws, so it does not matter.
 
I like to turn my oilers up until oily sawdust is starting to clump up behind the clutch cover then I know it's a little too much. Your mileage may vary.
 
Do you guys not take and pride in your work, at being good at what you do and doing it the right way? It boggles my mind that you guys think the manufacturers would go to the expense to design and produce adjustable oilers if there wasn't a need to adjust the oil output.

My first saw was a 445 that had oiler problems life-long. At first, it didn't put out enough oil and burned things up so it went in for warranty service. After it came back, it puts out a flood of oil to the point that it makes your right foot and leg oily, sawdust clumps to everything, and it's an oozy dripping mess that makes a puddle under itself when it's put down for the day. So it's entirely obvious that there is such a thing as both too much and too little oil. My new 550XPG and 562XPG have adjustable oilers. I'd like to get them to put out the right amount of oil, but it's pretty clear that almost no one on here has pride in their work anymore.
 
Dildo alert!

Wasteful? Messy? Annoying? Tune the system properly? What a steaming load of bullcrap there buddy! Do you actually run saws? Obviously not, and you are just trolling for another fight on AS, like a typical Brush Ape would. Good luck tuning your bar oilers to the exact proper amount given the bar, the wood that you are cutting, the temperature, the crud on the bar at any given time, and many other variables that you are likely not aware of or have ever worked in.

Why the fork would you care if you use more oil, as opposed to burning a bar and stretching chains? Crank the oilers all the way up and forget about it. Use Canola oil if you are worried about the environment. $5 a gallon at WalMart here. More oil does not matter one lick that way. I have yet to see any 'mess' as a result of any bar oil setting, save for my 026 non-PRO saws that pool when they sit at idle. But there is no oil setting on those saws, so it does not matter.

Literally just spit my beverage out! It boggles my mind why you would worry about torching a B & C over a little extra oil!:sucks::baaa:
 
Pride?! Really?!

You are looking for a scientific procedure by which to adjust your oiler. I have just that. But I need to know some more specifics.

What is the hardness rating of the wood that is being cut? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

What is the moisture content on the wood to be cut? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

What is the ambient temperature at which you are cutting? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

What is the tensile strength of the metal n the chain with which you are cutting? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

What is the initial sharpness of the chain with which you are cutting? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

At what rate does the sharpness of the chain degrade in the wood being cut? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

What oil are you using? What are the properties of that oil? What standards are being used to determine the properties?

At what rpm will the saw run when making the cut? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

How does this rpm compare to max rpm of said saw?

What is the standard deviation on the hardness and consistency of the wood throughout the cut? In what units are you measuring that? How accurate is the device with which you are measuring this?

There are a couple more questions I need answered but cannot remember. I will ask when I get to the master list of variables.

Once I have these, I will send you the equation to determine the rate of oil needed for each cut.
 
If you don't know or understand how much bar oil you need, you should never buy $1,300 dollars worth of saws. Do them saws a favor and sell them now and go back to your 445.
Actually forget the above. you need to pm @SawTroll . he is the husky 562 expert and tell you exactly what to do. Ok now this thread is done.
 
If you don't know or understand how much bar oil you should never but $1,300 dollars worth of saws. Do them saws a favor and sell them now and go back to your 445.
Actually forget the above you need to pm @SawTroll he is the husky 562 expert and tell you exactly what to do. Ok now this thread is done.

I agree blow this one up!
 
Wow, you guys are an amazing shame to the tree working community.

God forbid someone should try to learn how to do things right.

You were told several times how to do it right. And by guys who have 1000s of hours running saws. You didn't like the answers you got, so you got disrespectful. At this point you might do yourself, and everybody else, a favor and go back under your bridge until the dust settles.
 
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