How much bar oil is correct?

[windthrown]

You were told several times how to do it right. And by guys who have 1000s of hours running saws. You didn't like the answers you got, so you got disrespectful. At this point you might do yourself, and everybody else, a favor and go back under your bridge until the dust settles.

REP for that!

 

[Barcroftb]

This about as strange a thread as how long does a file last or how often you sharpen.

Or what brand of handlebar polish do you prefer? Good god how did I get sucked into an oil thread!

 

[Chris-PA]

 

[Chris-PA]

 

[Donnarshmr]

You were told several times how to do it right

No, I was told how to do it the lazy assed way that works well enough to avoid mechanical damage. That's not the same things as actually doing it right. Again, if there were no need to ever run at anything other than max pump output, the manufacturers would not spend the money on adjustable oilers.

 

[Chris-PA]

No, I was told how to do it the lazy assed way that works well enough to avoid mechanical damage. That's not the same things as actually doing it right. Again, if there were no need to ever run at anything other than max pump output, the manufacturers would not spend the money on adjustable oilers.

See post 33 above, which pretty much covers it. It's a full loss oil system that pees a little cheap oil of widely varying properties out into the bar groove, and is dependent on a whole bunch of other variables. If you can see oil on the drive links after a cut it's good enough, and there's an adjuster so you can compensate for all those variables. And if you use inexpensive biodegradable oil then turn it up more because it doesn't matter. The excess gets blown out with the air hose when you're done.

It's really not that hard.

 

[windthrown]

You get the BA die-hard award.

See post 33 above, which pretty much covers it. It's a full loss oil system that pees a little cheap oil of widely varying properties out into the bar groove, and is dependent on a whole bunch of other variables. If you can see oil on the drive links after a cut it's good enough, and there's an adjuster so you can compensate for all those variables. And if you use inexpensive biodegradable oil then turn it up more because it doesn't matter. The excess gets blown out with the air hose when you're done.

It's really not that hard.

MORE REP! From one engineer, to another engineer, to boot.

 

[Barcroftb]

No, I was told how to do it the lazy assed way that works well enough to avoid mechanical damage. That's not the same things as actually doing it right. Again, if there were no need to ever run at anything other than max pump output, the manufacturers would not spend the money on adjustable oilers.

No, I was told how to do it the lazy assed way that works well enough to avoid mechanical damage. That's not the same things as actually doing it right. Again, if there were no need to ever run at anything other than max pump output, the manufacturers would not spend the money on adjustable oilers.

Fee, figh, foe, fum.... blah, blah, blah. Don't you have goats to go harass?

It's really a personal preference thing. There is no right way to do it. Most of us like maximum protection. You clearly prefer it dry.

If you already knew the answer to the question, then why did you even ask?

 

[merc_man]

Tank oil to tank of gas.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

[x308]

<Thread hijack> As the oil is pumped into the top of the bar, instead of the bottom where it would do most good; has any manufacturer made a bar that directs oil to the bottom rails? By the lack of such bars on the market today, I would assume it is impractical.

 

[derwoodii]

<Thread hijack> As the oil is pumped into the top of the bar, instead of the bottom where it would do most good; has any manufacturer made a bar that directs oil to the bottom rails? By the lack of such bars on the market today, I would assume it is impractical.

huh,,, i's never looked at it that way tis true the oil should go to bar bottom rail 1st,,,, but perhaps as chain rotates away then back under it maybe a tad hard to engineer,,, must ponder this

nice Heinlein quote too

 

[derwoodii]

oh i always have my oil adjustment wicked up as far it can go typically 3/4 tank oil to tank gas

 

[Stowe Boy]

Donnarshmr. I got the equation to do it right. Just need to have the questions answered.

Please tell me you are not one of these people that pretends to be a perfectionist and wants to do things right, but does not want to to do the work. I don't think this site takes kindly to entitled folks who don't want to do the work.

 

[Bwildered]

No, I was told how to do it the lazy assed way that works well enough to avoid mechanical damage. That's not the same things as actually doing it right. Again, if there were no need to ever run at anything other than max pump output, the manufacturers would not spend the money on adjustable oilers.

A good way to gauge whether you're getting an over the top answer is to find out what fuel oil ratio they run, on a scale the 16:1 runners are usually excessive thinking a chain should be visibly wet with oil after cutting, through to the 50:1 ones who are don't think excess is anything more than a false economy & only would worry about running out of bar adjustment before the chain is sharpened away or the chain getting smoking hot, usually one would start at the mid point of the oil adjustment then go + or - until you see a light spray on a surface from the tip before cutting, different oils & dryness of the timber mean different settings.
Thanski

 

[MnSam]

No, I was told how to do it the lazy assed way that works well enough to avoid mechanical damage. That's not the same things as actually doing it right. Again, if there were no need to ever run at anything other than max pump output, the manufacturers would not spend the money on adjustable oilers.

Adjustable oilers are overrated.

 

[mohick]

In fact my favorite go to saw with hundreds of hours on it is a sears-poulan with manual- auto oiler combo auto dosen't work. and I love it, I can use as much or as little oil as needed according to what I am cutting. Otherwise cranked wide open as stated before. This clown sounds like the guy on another site that changed his valve cove gaskets every 50,000 miles just for kicks and grins. "YOU JUST CAN'T FIX STUPID"..................

 

[A10egress]

I gotta say this went way out of hand. Perhaps a call to a engineer at Husqvarna or Stihl is in order?

 

[Chris-PA]

Adjustable oilers are overrated.

LOL - my 38cc Earthquake has one (so did the original RedMax G3800 I think). I mean, it's gonna have a 14" or 16" bar, how much is it going to vary?

On the other hand I like the design of the RedMax G621 (and my clone of it) with the oil adjuster knob on the top. That saw may have a 20" or 25" bar on it and the chain load (and heat) can vary a lot. Nice to be able to just turn it up or down as needed. Perhaps I should mount a calculator on the top cover so I can figure out where to set it?

sears-poulan with manual- auto oiler combo

That's another way to do it - my McCinderblock has an adjustable pulse auto oiler (which does work), but I leave that set on max as it's not too aggressive. When I'm pushing it and think I need more oil I can just give the manual oiler a pump.

 

[c5rulz]

Brush Ape, He's back.

 

[windthrown]

Adjustable oilers are overrated.

Back in the day my Mac and Homelite saws all had thumb oilers. I never could get the oil on the bar just perfect. These auto oil saws are all a dream come true for me. Never mind chain brakes, light weight and AV on all of these new saws.