How to remove 441 carb with throttle cable?

[Jkstihl]

You apparently had no trouble removing the piston pin. Mine was frozen (almost welded) to the piston. I should have built my own special tool with a C-clamp to press it out rather than try to pound it out. Fortunately, I was unable to get it 2/3 out without snapping the rod. The tool Stihl offered for removing it failed miserably. There are yet other difficulties awaiting a rebuilder, but I hate to list them all here on your thread.

Always always always put a wood block on bottom side of rod opposite of the side your knocking the wrist pin thru in between the rod and the case.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Always always always put a wood block on bottom side of rod opposite of the side your knocking the wrist pin thru in between the rod and the case.

I did that. I blocked off the entire base with special hardwood parts that I have saved for years. I have always done this to protect excessive jar to the rod and crank shaft.

Please understand that through the years I have rebuilt over 30 chainsaw engines. It made no difference this time. This piston pin might as well have been heat welded to the piston. Likely it was a bad production run at the factory. I also noticed that this pin was rather thin gauge steel. That did not help matters. The entire removal of this piston pin was a nightmare.

So, Stihl now has me designing a piston pin press-out tool that requires no tapping or knocking whenever you encounter this situation.

 

[Wazzu]

I don’t mean to derail this topic but I don’t see a lot of info on here about the 441 and lots of you guys seem to have 441 saws/parts. I am in the market for a 441 case, flywheel side. The previous owner of mine apparently was sick of this rubiks cube and took the dremmell to it trying to break it down enough to replace fuel lines. It still works ok but I would like to have a spare on hand when I need it.

 

[L34]

OK. Next time (If there ever is one) I will try braided nylon string, probably mason line. Frankly, I was afraid that force would tear off or damage the lips when pulled tightly. Once those are gone, the part becomes trash. This engineering design is absurd.

Yep I use builders line.

 

[TheWhiteLotus]

Im having a hell of a time with this damn 441c. The problem now, is putting it all back together, i cant seem to get it in the cold start position. It click to I and 0 fine but it won't stay on the up arrow. First pic is it in the 0 position...off is metal on metal right?

 

[L34]

Yes metal to metal off

 

[TheWhiteLotus]

Hmm im stumped then. I can click it down to the I no problem, but i cant get it to stay in the up arrow position for a cold start. even with pulling the trigger

 

[DND 9000]

Have a close look on the switch shaft. Maybe there is something broken or damaged or not fitted correctly (a nose or so). These parts can be delicate.