How to remove a Husky 345 clutch?

[scotchguy]

Hi Guys, A merry Christmas to you all.

I was just trying to change the sprocket on the Husky 345 I've been running for years ... there is a first time for everything. I aslo thought I would lubricate the needle bearing at the same time ... another first! Just let me say that the old sprocket is well worn.

Anyway, I was digusted to find that it was not obvious how to remove the clutch and that this appears to be necessary to change the sprocket and lubricate the bearing. There is a little raised bit with an engraved arrow marked 'off'. However, it is not clear wheather I should use a special tool or just use a screw driver or a hammer. Any advice would be gratefully received.

Thanks.

 

[HiOctane]

You can use a flat screwdriver and a hammer and hit in the recessed slot of the shoe(direction of the arrow ) wit a quick and sharp blow,sholud unscrew after few blows.Or you buy the special tool from Husky.And replace your sprocket with one with a floating rim,will last much longer,you replace only the rim when worn,and your chain will derail less often.The Oregon part # 1028215X.

 

[skwerl]

I've never seen a 345 but I'm guessing it's an external clutch just like my 346XP.

First thing is to pull the plug and insert a piston stop or the end of a piece of rope to stop the piston. Be careful not to get the rope stuck down one of the ports, the piston can cut it off like a pair of scissors and then you'll have a mess.
Then I use a beaterdriver (old sturdy screwdriver) and hammer on the indicated notch. These Husky's are surprisingly difficult to spin off compared to other saws I've done. Don't be surprised if it takes several smacks.

 

[scotchguy]

Thank you gentlemen for the excellent advice as usual. I've got the rim sprocket ready to go on.

All the best, Ronnie.

 

[scottr]

excellent advice

Schotchguy , the free shop manual has excellent advice on page 26 . http://www.gardening-tools-direct.co.uk/content/husqwm266_hwen2003_1140147-26.pdf

 

[scotchguy]

Thanks Scott, I just downloaded the workshop manual.

Although I have not checked, I doubt whether it tells you to follow the advice of HiOctane which is what worked for me ... ie. I put a screw driver in the slot and gave it a smart hit with a hammer.

 

[hydro2]

I've never seen a 345 but I'm guessing it's an external clutch just like my 346XP.

First thing is to pull the plug and insert a piston stop or the end of a piece of rope to stop the piston. Be careful not to get the rope stuck down one of the ports, the piston can cut it off like a pair of scissors and then you'll have a mess.
Then I use a beaterdriver (old sturdy screwdriver) and hammer on the indicated notch. These Husky's are surprisingly difficult to spin off compared to other saws I've done. Don't be surprised if it takes several smacks.

Why do I have to remove the clutch springs first? Shouldn't the clutch just spin off springs or not?
Thanks,
Mark

 

[SmithEC]

I don't know anything about the saw in question. I downloaded that service manual because I just had to see what you are talking about.

Is that where you are getting this from? Seems to me that what the manual is illustrating is removal of the springs after removal of the clutch.

This is the first that I have seen of that kind of saw construction. I have to say that the idea of that part of the engine being essentially a reversal of how my Stihl is put together seems very strange to me. But then again, if I owned that saw I might think the Stihl is strange.

 

[hydro2]

I don't know anything about the saw in question. I downloaded that service manual because I just had to see what you are talking about.

Is that where you are getting this from? Seems to me that what the manual is illustrating is removal of the springs after removal of the clutch.

This is the first that I have seen of that kind of saw construction. I have to say that the idea of that part of the engine being essentially a reversal of how my Stihl is put together seems very strange to me. But then again, if I owned that saw I might think the Stihl is strange.

Thanks for responding. The clutch on my 353 does not have a nut like the one in the illustration, but has the indentations metioned above for removing it. The directions are not real clear in the manual, at least not to me. I would think that you would not remove the springs until after the clutch was off. Yea it is kind of stupid. I think my Stihl just has a nut and removal is pretty straighforward on it. With an impact gun, you don't even have to worry about keeping the piston from moving. I don't like the design of the 353 clutch. You are supposed to grease the needle bearing frequently, but what a pain.
Mark

 

[HiOctane]

Thanks for responding. The clutch on my 353 does not have a nut like the one in the illustration, but has the indentations metioned above for removing it. The directions are not real clear in the manual, at least not to me. I would think that you would not remove the springs until after the clutch was off. Yea it is kind of stupid. I think my Stihl just has a nut and removal is pretty straighforward on it. With an impact gun, you don't even have to worry about keeping the piston from moving. I don't like the design of the 353 clutch. You are supposed to grease the needle bearing frequently, but what a pain.
Mark

You can replace your springs with the clutch still on.To remove the clutch,you unscrew clockwise and Husky sells a special tool #5025 416 02 to remove it,not expensive.