How to Sharpen a Chain

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LNG24

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Chain Saw Sharpening:

I have always sent my chains out to be sharpened, but now that I will be cutting a lot of wood (about 40 cords) I am thinking it is time to learn how to properly sharpen a chain.

1) Should I start off with a Hand File or use that to touch up between sharpening?

2) Should I spend the money on one of those $200 chain sharpeners?

3) Just how do you properly sharpen the chain. I have a Chain Saw File, but no instructions on its use.

Thanks in Advance
 
i took the easy way out....i found a guy who sharpens them for $4.00 per chain. so, i gave him 10 of my chains.
 
at the high school that i attend in our harvesting class they tought us how to hand file all of our chains with hand files. Its really quite easy to do. Although for doing it the first time you should really use a file guide. Im sure you could find some article on here or on the web on how to hand sharpen chains, its the cheapest and easiest way to go. plus you can do it in the field without having to go too far.
 
I think a simple file guide is quite helpful.

I recently started filing, one stroke per tooth, every time I gas up. I have been very happy with the results. The old saying for all saws is file "little and often."

I have a grinder but only use it if my chain really gets off angle or the teeth on the two sides are getting way out of balance or if I hit something that really puts nicks in the teeth.
 
It's a good thing to know if you're cutting firewood on/near the ground. I always seem to find a rock [especially with this snow] as soon as I get done reloading and touching up the saw!:censored:

I help another logger occasionally and always have him work on my chain so I get a refresher course. He's got a small vise mounted on a rig that slips into his receiver hitch, it gives him a solid bite on the bar and it holds the vise at the perfect height for him to file!
 
Theres a huge thread somewhere here [chainsaw section?] about those cheap import grinders, those that bought them seem to like them.

I though there was a CHAINSAW Section, but could not find it. Maybe the moderators could move this there.
 
I got a small cheap import sharpener that is almost new I only used it once or twice that I am willing to sell for 40$ Pm me if your interested.
 
Sharp file with a good handle. A guide with angles marked on it helps if your not accustomed with filing. Every ca. 4 sharpenings I take a flat file to the rakers, a gauge to check this helps. If I'm home I mount the blade in a bench vise, if I'm in the woods I cut a groove in a stump to hold the bar.

Don't forget to wear gloves in case the file slips, OUCH!!!
 
Saw files

That brings up an interesting point, what brand of files have you guys found that are a little better than others? I have been totally disgusted by the ones that I have bought at the shops around here. They last for maybe a day of serious cutting, 5 or 6 sharpenings. I usually sharpen when I stop for a break, and consider myself lucky if one file lasts a day. I thought about ordering some from Baileys and a few other places, but wondered if they are any better.
 
That brings up an interesting point, what brand of files have you guys found that are a little better than others? I have been totally disgusted by the ones that I have bought at the shops around here. They last for maybe a day of serious cutting, 5 or 6 sharpenings. I usually sharpen when I stop for a break, and consider myself lucky if one file lasts a day. I thought about ordering some from Baileys and a few other places, but wondered if they are any better.


There was just a thread about this in the chainsaw forum
 
I've always sharpened all my saws by hand. By putting the saw in a vise keeps it sturdy and straight. to file down the rakers I use a high speed dremmel tool, it works wonders and its quick...Eugene
 
once you get a handfile and the guide your really all set, you dont NEED to have a grinder although it does help if you do make large nicks, or get one side of the chain smaller than the other (like me:censored: ) but you could still file them out with a hand file, although it would take a longer time, but still possible.
 
If the cost of a 511A is hard for you to justify then consider a Harbor Freight model , lower quality but will get the job done.. picture below..

I personally have never sharpened a chain in the field, I take four of each chain for my 440 and 20" bar and a 066 wearing a 25". When I go to cut wood I don't want to be messing with files , when it gets dull I replace it.When my chains in rotation start getting worn I sit in the basement , watch a football game and grind away.

I have 3/16 and 1/4 radius wheels and a flat profile wheel for rakers, bought these and a lightly used 511A for $143 on Ebay.... best money I ever spent!
 
Chain Saw Sharpening:

I have always sent my chains out to be sharpened, but now that I will be cutting a lot of wood (about 40 cords) I am thinking it is time to learn how to properly sharpen a chain.

1) Should I start off with a Hand File or use that to touch up between sharpening?

2) Should I spend the money on one of those $200 chain sharpeners?

3) Just how do you properly sharpen the chain. I have a Chain Saw File, but no instructions on its use.

Thanks in Advance


Buy A Northern Tool Chain Sharpener for $85 and get the "washer and shim" upgrade for a wopping $3. They have awesome reviews over on the chainsaw forum. I just ordered one the other day. I can't wait to try it out.
 
Keep it sharp, keep it in the wood.

Always carry a file. Always keep atleast 1 spare chain for each saw.
A minor touch out in the woods is quicker, and it don't hurt ti know how to get it cutting again. With care it will cut like a champ!

When back home that is when a decent grinder comes in handy.
I use a 511A with a reversing switch cobbled on. Works pretty well.

The best position for hand sharpening? Vertical. :jawdrop:
Helps keep the angle correct.

-Pat
 

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