How to Sharpen a Chain

[LNG24]

Thank for all the advice I have gotten so far. In woodworking (I am a pretty good cabinet maker) I was taught to learn with hand tools first and then power tools. Of course thats when I was a kid. Only hand tools I have now are Hammer, Screwdriver, couple of Hand Saws and a Coping Saw. In excavating, I learned with a shovel before I ever got on a machine. SO it seemed to be a trend, learn the hard way before the easy way. Thats why I figured I might be best learning with a file before a grinder.

I see the point of keeping a file in the field though. Better to do some touch up than to heat up a dulling chain. Since it takes about 4-5 days to get chains sharpened around here, I have 5 chains.

So I think I will hold off on a grinder until I see how many times I will need to get them ground while doing firewood. Here is a pic of a file I inherited with this house. It says Homelite and 5/32 on the handle. However, I have a Jonsred 2065. Bar says Sandvik STA 375 3/8 P. Chain says A2. I am thinking this is the wrong file, am I right? I am also not sure what the V shaped guide? is above the actual file. There are also marks on that V.Looks like an X

 

[Geez]

Quote {I am also not sure what the V shaped guide? is above the actual file. There are also marks on that V.Looks like an X}

Boy, it's been a long time since I used one of those, Larry. I wonder if they still make them like that? The flat of the V shaped part is designed to ride on top of the saw tooth. It makes it easy to keep the file in proper position relative to the top of the tooth. The X's are to help you align the file at the proper angle to the bar.

 

[Billy_Bob]

Get the Stihl "Chain Saw Safety, Operation & Maintenance" DVD. (Internet or Stihl dealers.) This will show you...
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/info_lit_video.html

 

[clawmute]

Thank for all the advice I have gotten so far. In woodworking (I am a pretty good cabinet maker) I was taught to learn with hand tools first and then power tools. Of course thats when I was a kid. Only hand tools I have now are Hammer, Screwdriver, couple of Hand Saws and a Coping Saw. In excavating, I learned with a shovel before I ever got on a machine. SO it seemed to be a trend, learn the hard way before the easy way. Thats why I figured I might be best learning with a file before a grinder.

I see the point of keeping a file in the field though. Better to do some touch up than to heat up a dulling chain. Since it takes about 4-5 days to get chains sharpened around here, I have 5 chains.

So I think I will hold off on a grinder until I see how many times I will need to get them ground while doing firewood. Here is a pic of a file I inherited with this house. It says Homelite and 5/32 on the handle. However, I have a Jonsred 2065. Bar says Sandvik STA 375 3/8 P. Chain says A2. I am thinking this is the wrong file, am I right? I am also not sure what the V shaped guide? is above the actual file. There are also marks on that V.Looks like an X

Used one of these type file holders for over 30 years. Filing all my own chains

 

[logbutcher]

Pferd

Once you get hand sharpening down it's fast, simple, easy.
Pferd makes a tool (Husky calls it SharpForce) that does the cutter and raker in one pass. Sized for the chain under $20 also @ Baileys. Just follow the witness line on most chains.
With a stump vise that holds the bar in the field you don't need all those extra chains. Hand sharpening-except for those times when you kiss a rock or dirt or barbed wire --is fast and simple. Even the "expert" :censored: sharpeners at the dealers sometimes burn chains; can't do that by hand.
I can touch up a chain in the field by hand, or in my bench vise close to the time it takes to set up the power whell grinders.
Yes, wear gloves.

 

[xjer]

Get the Stihl "Chain Saw Safety, Operation & Maintenance" DVD. (Internet or Stihl dealers.) This will show you...
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/info_lit_video.html

Thanks for the link. I got one coming.

Mike

 

[LNG24]

There's actually a chain sharpening forum.. just a little tricky to get to.

http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74

Ian

Mine should be here before the New Year.

Thanks Billy Bob and all the others.

Looks like the file I have is not correct for my saw though. Anyone need a Homelite File 5/32? I'll send it out for shipping costs only.

 

[Blazin]

I'm stuck in the ole days....Round for the teefs and flat for the rakes

 

[drmiller100]

i've got a 7900. if she cuts slower, i use the dogs more.

when my arms hurt, i swap chains cuz she needs an 1/8 inch off hte tooth due to rocks.

how long does it take to file off 1/8 inch of cutter? i have no idea, but on the harbor freight grinder it is about 2 seconds.

 

[DG2244]

Unless I hit something hard (rock), I can usually get away with just a quick dressing with a round file. Only takes a stroke per tooth to keep them nice and sharp. No need to over sharpen, just uses up the chain.

 

[318firebug49]

Unless you get carried away with the file, I have found that chains last longer when hand filing as compared to a mechanized sharpener. Best rule to follow that I have found has been to freshen up the chain on every tank of gas, use a vise if possible, figure out your weak side and sharpen that side first and since you are just starting out, keep a new link of the chain you are sharpening with you, by referencing to it you will have an idea of what yours is supposed to look like after sharpening. File guides work good, but once I got the knack of freehanding I threw the guide away. ( I'm the guy that the community brings their saws to for sharpening) Also, I highly recommend wearing gloves. I have always had good luck with Stihl files, but I am also carefull to keep them out of the muck and to brush the files out with a wire brush during and after sharpening. Keep in mind, if it was easy, everybody would do it!!

 

[clearance]

Unless you get carried away with the file, I have found that chains last longer when hand filing as compared to a mechanized sharpener. Best rule to follow that I have found has been to freshen up the chain on every tank of gas, use a vise if possible, figure out your weak side and sharpen that side first and since you are just starting out, keep a new link of the chain you are sharpening with you, by referencing to it you will have an idea of what yours is supposed to look like after sharpening. File guides work good, but once I got the knack of freehanding I threw the guide away. ( I'm the guy that the community brings their saws to for sharpening) Also, I highly recommend wearing gloves. I have always had good luck with Stihl files, but I am also carefull to keep them out of the muck and to brush the files out with a wire brush during and after sharpening. Keep in mind, if it was easy, everybody would do it!!

Welcome to the site, merry Christmas. And yes, wear gloves, blood and stitches finally convinced me, now I wear them every time.

 

[JeffHK454]

For all you hand fillers I would recommend taking your chains in and have them machine ground every so often. I'm one of the few people in my group of saw owner friends that has a decent grinder, I get to see a bunch of chains every year that have been maintained with files. After several hand filings the profile of each cutting tooth tends to take on a shape of it's own, I'm no expert but this can't be good for overall performance?

I would never say that in the correct hands a round file can't make a razor sharp chain but I believe there's a whole lot more skill involved in it than people realize.

Jeff

 

[abohac]

Get the grinder

I took some abuse from Dad (he always filed and I was sick of it) and bought a Silvy grinder which was made somewhere in Oregon. I have never been sorry. I have about 4 chains per saw (3 20" bars and 1 36") and when they are all dull I sharpen them all. It is very easy and what I like the most is I only put an edge back on the chain. When I used to have them sharpened the guy (and it didn't seem to matter where I went) would really hack into them. I can make a chain last forever the way I sharpen them. Also, you alaway have very well sharpened chain (no cutting on angles and that stuff). Do yourself a favor if you are going to use your chainsaw for a fair amount and get the grinder

 

[318firebug49]

Files

This might be getting off of the path a little, please bare with me I'm new on this type of interaction, but does anyone use full chisel chains? and if so, are you sharpening with a chisel point file ( flat file with a bevel edge on each side) Reason I am asking , the only place I have been able to locate this type of file has been a Stihl dealer, the files last quite a while, usually can wear out a couple of chains with one, but at 9 bucks a file, was just wondering if there are any better price deals out there... if you sharpen this type of chain with a grinder or a round file you will not get full benefit of what the chain can do....

 

[318firebug49]

Also, thanks for the welcome to the site, am really enjoing the reading, Lots of good stuff in here!!

 

[kevin j]

I hand file every tank or two, and grind when I hit something.

My reasons are something no one has mentioned yet: with the 'run til it's dull then grind' method, the feeling of 'sharp' goes from 100% to something low say 70%, then back to 100% and down to 70% again. Since I run a 20 inch on 026 small motor, I need and want it very sharp all the time. By touching up frequently, I never let it get 'dull' to the noticeable point. Sort of 100%, to 90% and file, up to 95%, run til 90% and file, etc. There is a big difference between the feel of fresh sharp, then the point where it doesn't pull in quite right and needs a dressing up, and finally the point where it feels dull and has to be pushed.

I do find a ground chain is more uniform and last longer until the first hand filing. Each filing seems to get closer and closer as the chain gets away from perfectly uniform.

and of course if it touches steel or rock, I change it right then.

just found this site recently, love it. learning a lot. k

 

[wally 12]

electric sharpeners

Is there a good better best rating for the electric chain sharpeners?
Do some hold the angles and tolerances better.
Are name brand units like Stihl better or do they just cost more?
Please advise.

Thank's Todd

 

[aokpops]

if your just getting started get a carlton chain and buy a carlton file o plate.just started useing dremel working good . if the chain is rock out gona have to get the big grinder .

 

[John Bartley]

...
Yea, you can argue with all that all you want, but it ain't gonna be a good arguement!

This isn't an argument, but it is a note for dremel users ...

There is one negative to watch out for when using a typical abrasive stone in a dremel to sharpen a chainsaw tooth. This negative is the diameter of the abrasive "stone" as it gets used up and becomes smaller in diameter. If the user is not alert to the amount of wear, the teeth can develop a fair "hook", resulting in a tooth that goes dull very fast due to the lack of material available to absorb and disperse the heat created at the tip of the tooth. One alternative is to use the diamond surfaced stones which wear far less.

cheers eh?