firemanmarc
ArboristSite Member
I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc
There are stroke limiters and they have been mentioned here. Do a search for them.I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc
I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc
Yep, stroke control
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/speeco-stroke-control-1-1-8-in-to-1-1-2-in
There are different sizes for different shaft diameters. They just take up space between the end of the cylinder and the wedge. You stack them up to get the stroke you want. Typically I see them made of aluminum so they don't mess up the chrome.
I tried that with a steel plate on the beam. Seemed to stress the push plate/rod connection because the stop, the steel plate, was off center from the rod. There was enough slop in the push plate to tip up a bit front to back.drill a hole in your beam behind where you want the pusher to stop. drop in a Pin, done. The Slide will hit the pin and stop instead of pushing those stroke limiters into the gland face
I recently purchased a gently used Huskee 22ton splitter. My question is has anyone shortened the stroke with anything. I always cut 16-18" and would love to shorten the stroke somehow. Thank you Marc
Is your splitter a wedge on beam or fixed plate on beam?
There is a guy on YouTube who used stroke limiters (on a TW-2 I think) and had problems. If I remember right his push plate or wedge screwed onto the cylinder rod. Using the stroke limiters stripped those rod threads and he had to replace the cylinder.
I used the stroke limiters for many years on an old Speeco with push fixed wedge. The push plate was fastened with a bolt through the cylinder rod end. It sheared one bolt per year from wear, which was probably due to the stroke limiters. If yours is set up with a bolt, I would suggest you use a soft low grade bolt as a sacrificial fastener to protect the cylinder rod.
The pressure on the auto return can be reduced. It only needs enough psi to drop the valve into detent. Of course, everything wears out sooner or later.I tried that with a steel plate on the beam. Seemed to stress the push plate/rod connection because the stop, the steel plate, was off center from the rod. There was enough slop in the push plate to tip up a bit front to back.
Post 11 has no link, but I searched the title and found it. I think you are referring to the cyl stripping out of the clevis. In part two, the guy said timberwolf told him the auto cycle valve only worked if the cyl fully retracted. To that I say BS. The autodetent is a function of the control valve, the cyl doesnt care where it is at. If the detent release pressure had been checked and set properly, the cyl rod would not have stripped out of the clevis. It takes a lot of pressure to strip the rod out of a clevis. The way I set my detent pressure on my machine was pretty simple, I simply adjusted it to where the cyl had enough power to retract fully and stop movement at the slighted amount of resistance. I would venture to guess that most of the damaged gland and rod caps you hear about are also caused by an improperly adjusted detent relief.
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