Huskee/Speeco 22T won't start in the cold (even mild cold)

[Bl8tant]

I have the same splitter, and have had similar issues. I'm a small-engine gearhead and I know how frustrating a cranky engine can be. The bad news is that most of your issue is related to the cold fluid in the hydraulic system. It makes it difficult to spin the engine fast enough to get it to fire and have enough inertia left to KEEP running even if it fires. Since we have no way to disconnect the pump from the engine, your only option is to improve the conditions as much as possible. Use ethanol-free fuel, don't be afraid to use starting fluid, warm the splitter if you have any way to do so (magnetic block heaters really work), make sure you have a good plug, heat the plug.........ANYTHING you can do to give the engine a better chance to get spinning. The real bummer is that the hard-to-start due to cold weather issue also makes it easy to flood the engine. Keep a plug wrench and propane torch handy (remove plug, use torch to dry/warm plug).
On a side note, I switched the L-head briggs that came with the splitter for a OHV briggs (quieter, little more power), and the new engine has the same issue. If anything the new motor is even harder to start, but it's also spinning a 13gpm pump in lieu of the factory 11gpm pump. I cured 90% of my issues with ethanol-free fuel and magnetic block heaters (one on hydraulic tank, one on engine block).

Good Luck.....

 

[beerman6]

Thick oil and cold temps=hard to pull fast.


Thats why I store my generator in the basement.The one time we lost power and it was cold enough(-10) to make me worried,I walked out to the barn and tried to start it :msp_mad: Ended up having to run just the circulating pump on the OWB off of an inverter plugged into my car for 2 hours...

 

[Streblerm]

I notice with mine that pulling it over to TDC before giving the cord a yank really makes a difference in how it starts. I prime mine 5 or six times, slowly, keeping my finger on the primer bulb as it returns to position. I pull the cord slowly until I can feel the piston coming up on the compression stroke. Once that happens I pull the starter slowly until the starter pawls engage. Once everything is tight I give it a GOOD swift pull. It almost always starts this way in one pull.

Just pressing the primer in then letting go and/or yanking on the starter cord without pulling it over to tdc usually results in a no start.

 

[kodiak]

Thanks for all the encouragement, it's good to know I'm not alone. Regarding the 92 octane fuel, it's the only stuff I can get my hands on that's non-ethanol.

Another thing I should mention is that when the engine does catch, it runs right up to full RPM, runs for a few seconds then dies. The fact that it's able to go to full RPM I believe is an indication that the hydraulic oil may not be the primary culprit.

Sound like I just need to keep working with it to find the magical number of primer pushes. I do have a heated garage that I could move it into a day ahead of time but I don't always know that far in advance when I'll need it.

My main frustration is in the fact that this thing is BRAND NEW and the engine that Speeco has selected to use appears to be quite finicky in colder weather. I mean really, did they not expect their log splitters to be used in the winter???

 

[olyman]

try a new high quality spkplug...ive fought the snowblower one year,,after it ran fine the year before.got a new plug,bingo!! same good brand plug,,but what happened in the summer and spring months,for the old plug not to work???? also got a new one,,for the cs,just because. put it in,,and it wouldnt start!! put in the old one,instant start!! brand new plug,NO GOOD!!! sheesh...

 

[Whitespider]

Kodiak,
I didn’t notice that you’re in Minnesota until just now (pretty observant of me, huh?). Are you sure the 92-octane fuel you’re using is ethanol-free? It is my understanding(??) that, by law, all gasoline in Minnesota must contain at least 10% ethanol… except for some “special-use” fuels.

• In 2005, Minnesota passed an aggressive law that requires all gasoline sold in the state to contain 10% ethanol.
• In 1989, the mandatory pump labeling requirement for ethanol blends was discontinued in favor of voluntary labeling.
• In 1992, a minimum 2.7% oxygen content requirement was established for gasoline.
• In 2000, the content of non-ethanol oxygenates such as MTBE in gasoline sold in Minnesota was restricted to 1/3%. Zero percent allowed for sale after July 2005.
• In 2005, law required 20% ethanol content in all gasoline by 8/30/2013.

So a couple of points…

1. Minnesota law does not require pump labeling of ethanol blended gasoline.
2. Minnesota law requires 2.7% oxygen in gasoline.
3. Minnesota law has banned all oxygenates except ethanol.
4. Minnesota law mandates an increase from 10% to 20% over the next few years.
5. The infrastructure to blend ethanol into all gasoline is already in place.
6. The EPA has given approval to increase ethanol to 15% in gasoline.

Given the laws in Minnesota… the simplest, cheapest, easiest, legal way for gasoline distributors to market a high octane gasoline is to just increase the ethanol content to something over 10%. You may very well be using 15% ethanol blended gasoline… and that’s surely gonna’ make for difficult starting in cold(er) temperatures. As ethanol cools it becomes more and more difficult to ignite… and it ain’t linear.

I wouldn't be too quick to blame the engine, or Speeco's choice of engine.

 

[kodiak]

Kodiak,
I didn’t notice that you’re in Minnesota until just now (pretty observant of me, huh?). Are you sure the 92-octane fuel you’re using is ethanol-free? ...

The gas comes from a dedicated pump labeled as ethanol free. The same label goes to say that it is for off-road use only and gives examples (snowmobiles, ATVs, etc...). At over $4 a gallon, I doubt that many are filling their vehicles with it.

 

[Whitespider]

Yep, that would be "special use" fuel.

 

[1harlowr]

Mine did the same thing last winter before I replaced the Briggs with a cheap Harbor Freight Honda knock off. Mine would fire for 2-3 seconds and die. If I kept priming it for that 2-3 seconds (for 20-30 seconds) it would then keep running. I think there was an air leak around the air filter where it hooks to the engine. When the engine warmed it expanded just enough to shut the leak off.
Changed the engine because I got the new one for $70 and a two year warranty. New engine is quieter and uses less fuel.

 

[Streblerm]

Thanks for all the encouragement, it's good to know I'm not alone. Regarding the 92 octane fuel, it's the only stuff I can get my hands on that's non-ethanol.

Another thing I should mention is that when the engine does catch, it runs right up to full RPM, runs for a few seconds then dies. The fact that it's able to go to full RPM I believe is an indication that the hydraulic oil may not be the primary culprit.

Sound like I just need to keep working with it to find the magical number of primer pushes. I do have a heated garage that I could move it into a day ahead of time but I don't always know that far in advance when I'll need it.

My main frustration is in the fact that this thing is BRAND NEW and the engine that Speeco has selected to use appears to be quite finicky in colder weather. I mean really, did they not expect their log splitters to be used in the winter???

Yep, sounds like something other than hydraulic oil. Once mine starts it will keep running with no problem. Yours sounds like its too lean. Either not enough fuel or a vacuum leak somewhere. I have been totally happy with mine so far.

 

[Ironworker]

When ever I start my motorcycle in the winter, I run my heat gun up and down the jugs, the heads and the lowered and it starts right up, plus B&G's aren't the best engines, that's why I went the extra bucks for a Troybilt with the Honda, that puppy always fires right up.

 

[haveawoody]

Anyone having cold start problems on the speeco 22t or huskie the problem is quite a quick fix.

Just fixed a buddys speeco 22 he got for xmas and after looking at all the things it might be it turned out to be the factory spark plug.
Seems like to much pressure was put on cranking in the plug at the factory so the electrodes are quite close even on some new machines.
After it runs a few times those close electrodes get worse and presto no start.

Cheap plug on the original briggs engine.
Check your plug for gap if you are having cold start problems, get yourself an EZ start plug with decent electrodes and don't crank it in to tight when you install it.

Hope that helps a few frustrated people here hunting for the reason.

 

[dave_dj1]

I thought I read on here a while back that there was air leaking around the primer bulb? I think they should go back to chokes but that's just my feeling.
Pretty sad when a 70 dollar Chinese motor will out perform an American made B&S. But I digress.................................

 

[haveawoody]

dave_dj1,

Guess it pays to own and work on about 50 different pieces of various small gas machine

Sad that they put such a crappy soft original sparkplug in that motor.

I bet the primer bulb gets it's set of problems also.
I love small machines with a primer bulb, without them you get elbow dissorders some days. LOL

From what i saw on his splitter i really saw no other problems with the brigg engine.
Not a big fan of the air filter acting as a gas/carb cover so i bet a loose screw on it makes for tough starts also and lots of fuel running down the air filter.
Sounds like a great place for a fire to start up with a backfire.



I think if you have problems with a newish machine with a factory plug still in it look to the plug as step #1.
Heck the soft primer might just be a plug that has gotten a bit squished, more fuel and a start and much easier to start in warm weather.

After i changed his plug and primed 3 times it started on first pull and temp is about 20f here today.
Just regular 10w30 oil and regular hydrolic oil in it so me thinks the cheap plug is making people go hunting for other culprits.

As for chinese motors.
I've owned a few and they are all scrap now.
I'm not saying everything you buy cheap is cheap but what i have bought was.
I buy Canadian first, then NA then Europe, then i check offworld places, then chinese epuiptment

 

[stihl023/5]

The vertical shaft models have a briggs like on a push mower. Ever start one of these under 40? Sure they have a primer but they also need a choke.

 

[haveawoody]

stihl023/5,

Yeah his is a V/H splitter.
Was about 20f today and no problem, first pull after the new plug.
I agree a choke would be a nice addon to the machine, a fuel shotoff an even better addon.
I see gummed engine in the future when it gets turned off with fuel remaining.

I will check when it gets real cold and see what it does for him.

 

[Mntn Man]

I scanned pretty fast but I don't think anyone mentioned going with 5w 30 synthetic oil. Try pulling the engine with conventional oil; change to 5w 30 synthetic (same temp) and be amazed how easy it turns over. I have never had any problem starting in very cold weather since I have switched. It only holds like 20 oz so cheap fix. I also run synthetic 32 hydraulic oil but only because I got it free from work.

 

[groundup]

I have the same splitter. You need to prime it without gloves. If you have gloves you won't seal the vacuum hole on the bulb and as others have said give it about 10 pumps

 

[Mac88]

Hmmmh. My umpty decades old 10 horse Tecumseh starts on the second or third pull, every time. Of course, it's not a hi-tech engine.

 

[haveawoody]

Mntn Man,

I have an older speeco myself.
I never do anything with it, oil stays the same, hydo fluid stays the same and it starts on the coldest days.

New things are so picky now, me thinks cheap out from the company is why.
I bet you are right on a new machine 5w would be better for cold weather.

groundup,

Do you have the original plug in yours?
Try a new EZ start plug and i bet that 10 pump is back to 3.
$3 experiment

I seem to remember having to change out the plug on a new briggs mower engine for the same reason.
Garbage factory sparkplug.