husky 350/346xp project

[Mattyo]

Why how leak ???

 

[Red97]

Why how leak ???

I think I used a little too much Loctite, and it washed the sealant out, I am going to strip it back down clean and reseal everything. Make sure the cylinder extensions are not bottoming out on the riser.

It was leaking between the jug and riser, just under the intake snout, inline with the impulse passage, only a thin strip to seal in that area. Also leaking around the rear two jug bolts.

 

[weimedog]

I think I used a little too much Loctite, and it washed the sealant out, I am going to strip it back down clean and reseal everything. Make sure the cylinder extensions are not bottoming out on the riser.

It was leaking between the jug and riser, just under the intake snout, inline with the impulse passage, only a thin strip to seal in that area. Also leaking around the rear two jug bolts.

Be curious to see if the cylinder screws are a bit too long and bottoming out. They need to be shorter by .050 on a STOCK cylinder....if yours was decked, have to add that into consideration too. Also gasket thickness if you are not using a base gasket. Also have seen the bearing caps "flexed" a bit. Last... are they the course or fine thread?? Also if you are using 1184/1194, no need for Loctite, just use the 1184 as a thread locker. But my bet is screws bottomed out. I would run those screws down into the bearing cap while you have it apart and measure .. then measure the flange distance... and while you are at it, put the bearing cap and cylinder together w/o gasket or goo out of the saw and check to see if the mating surfaces match and there isn't a flatness issue on one or the other.


I have taken to heli-coiling the course threaded bearing caps to a fine thread. Haven't seen a failure on my course threaded build yet, just instinctively the fine thread is going to have better vibration resistance. (The course threaded 346oe build w/ a course threaded cap is on its second year btw without issues other than the controls )

Last and certainly not least, I had to debug a built saw where the cylinder was decked and it had at some point in its life flexed the flange just a bit. Could have been way over tightened (on a gasket)... maybe flexed like being dropped on the floor, could have been tightened where the guy didn't "pattern" the tightening sequence, (Just cranking on those screws one at a time) I didn't know what did it. Took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't seal. Doubt that is an issue with yours but you see the darnedest things over time.

 

[Mattyo]

I've made the mistake of short cylinder bolts 3 times...even after I swore to myself that wouldn't happen again. Weimedog is spot on...nice post

 

[weimedog]

One more thing. On those 346 / 350 case builds, make certain there is enough clearance between the transfer area of the cylinder casting and the case on the clutch side. I had to grind on the cylinder to get it to clear and therefore seat.

Also on "goo" gasket materials. I don't know if its the chemistry or me not being consistent, but when I used Permatex it didn't "bond" to the mating surfaces on the saw I did a tear down check with. The Three Bond product did. The permatex saw didn't fail therefore I'm not afraid of using it (Have two saws built with it right now in use..one is my Huztl 52mm on X-torq cases build), just it came apart pretty easy where the several saws I've torn down with Three Bond 1194 have required quite an effort to break the cylinder free from the cases as they acted like they were glued... I understand the explanation could be as simple as I had not cleaned the mating surface on the Permatex build as I had on the other for or five saws.... its an ugly shop I have and I am getting old. I certainly wouldn't put any material on the case or bearing cap, even in the threaded holes (as it will squeeze out as the screws go in); prior to getting them together as that can compromise the "goo" gasket where a standard gasket is much less critical in that regard.

( To those who never used goo gasket materials.... you have to wipe a thin film of gasket material on both mating surfaces, and usually u can see if its sticking at that point.. on both surfaces. )

 

[Mattyo]

The flywheel can also rub

 

[Homelite410]

I am really glad to see the members helpful here and no petty bickering or arrogance! Very nice.

 

[Red97]

Thank you guys for all the replies.

The jug bolts will bottom out on the riser. They are plenty short. I checked that.

I clearanced the riser for the jug extensions

The case to riser was stuck good, had to use some extra persuasion to get it free.

I think the problem was a combination of to little sealant, and contamination. The jug came off real easy.

Again thanks for the help.

 

[Red97]

Got it!!! all sealed up this time, don't have to shoot it yet.

oiler/clutch side is done. Flywheel coil/ recoil is done, I think, not sure how far to set the gap??? I set it as far away as I could, otherwise it locks the flywheel. which sounds like the piston is slapping LOL



Still need to do the tank vent mod, and filter/line. Open up the exhaust.


My current dilemma, My zama is screwed up, high needle is stripped out.

Do I rebuild my extra walbro 159A? buy an aftermarket carb? or is a better carb avalible for this application?

 

[weimedog]

oiler/clutch side is done. Flywheel coil/ recoil is done, I think, not sure how far to set the gap??? I set it as far away as I could, otherwise it locks the flywheel. which sounds like the piston is slapping LOL
Do I rebuild my extra walbro 159A? buy an aftermarket carb? or is a better carb avalible for this application?

Husqvarna has a plastic "card" used to set the ignition gap. If you can't find one, using the "brass" .010" -.012" leaf from a feeler gauge set will work. Just set the brass leaf in between the ignition and the flywheel....then turn the fly wheel until the magnet sucks the ignition tight to that feeler gauge and flywheel. Then tighten the ignition bolts & remove the leaf last.

And for the carb/intake... why not go all out and find a Zama C3-EL42 & 357xp intake setup?? I like blending the 357 air filter holder at a minimum... OK maybe a Zama C3-EL32 carb from a 346 will be better. (Had to grind a bit on the throttle linkage I think when I blended a 357 intake to a 350 last time...)

I had trouble with the walbro on my 350, couldn't get the low speed right after blending a 346OE top end. Had an opinion at the time but can't remember what I had found. Just put a Zama on it and things worked.

Not certain I would advise that aggressive a set of bucking spikes though! Makes it too easy to stall the chain... especially on smaller displacement saws regardless of build...

Muffler mods can be more about noise than power at times I think. Opening up the existing hole might help and you can use the spark arrestor screen as well... I started with an aftermarket muffler and brazed in 5/8 dia x 1.5 in tube. In the top clutch side corner. As much to direct the exhaust away from the work than anything else. The Aftermarket muffler didn't have any guts and made it easier to work with... I really like some of the mods using the "stamped" baffle from another muffler with an additional hole so you an have a screen on the second outlet as well. This with the guts cleaned out as well of course. Spike60's are that way. Look right, work well, and still have the screen. Me? "If your a hammer, everything looks like a nail"....and I have torches and brass. What I personally don't like.. just me.. is those holes cut right in the front with a screen. Don't like them for a whole lot of reasons on work saws... but to each his own I guess.

 

[Full Chisel]

Those dogs are ridiculous, lol!

 

[Mattyo]

As cool as they look they will likely get in the way more than anything...

 

[Full Chisel]

As cool as they look they will likely get in the way more than anything...

Worst case scenario, they cause too much leverage and crack the case.

 

[Red97]

Husqvarna has a plastic "card" used to set the ignition gap. If you can't find one, using the "brass" .010" -.012" leaf from a feeler gauge set will work. Just set the brass leaf in between the ignition and the flywheel....then turn the fly wheel until the magnet sucks the ignition tight to that feeler gauge and flywheel. Then tighten the ignition bolts & remove the leaf last.

And for the carb/intake... why not go all out and find a Zama C3-EL42 & 357xp intake setup?? I like blending the 357 air filter holder at a minimum... OK maybe a Zama C3-EL32 carb from a 346 will be better. (Had to grind a bit on the throttle linkage I think when I blended a 357 intake to a 350 last time...)

I had trouble with the walbro on my 350, couldn't get the low speed right after blending a 346OE top end. Had an opinion at the time but can't remember what I had found. Just put a Zama on it and things worked.

Not certain I would advise that aggressive a set of bucking spikes though! Makes it too easy to stall the chain... especially on smaller displacement saws regardless of build...

Muffler mods can be more about noise than power at times I think. Opening up the existing hole might help and you can use the spark arrestor screen as well... I started with an aftermarket muffler and brazed in 5/8 dia x 1.5 in tube. In the top clutch side corner. As much to direct the exhaust away from the work than anything else. The Aftermarket muffler didn't have any guts and made it easier to work with... I really like some of the mods using the "stamped" baffle from another muffler with an additional hole so you an have a screen on the second outlet as well. This with the guts cleaned out as well of course. Spike60's are that way. Look right, work well, and still have the screen. Me? "If your a hammer, everything looks like a nail"....and I have torches and brass. What I personally don't like.. just me.. is those holes cut right in the front with a screen. Don't like them for a whole lot of reasons on work saws... but to each his own I guess.

Think I am going to remove the factory port and install the larger one


I did not realize the spikes were that big, My plan was to add a outer spike t avoid the clutch rolls.

Thank you for the carb numbers, think I will get the 346 carb.

 

[Grits & Gravy]

A guy gave me a 350 last night, looks brand new practically.. Can't have more than a few tanks of gas ran through it.

All he knew was it wouldnt start... Popped the muffler off and it looks like it was straight gassed or had one hell of an air leak.

Looks like I'll be doing a 346 A/M top end on it for a toy... May get a little crazy with it.

 

[Ironworker]

A guy gave me a 350 last night, looks brand new practically.. Can't have more than a few tanks of gas ran through it.

All he knew was it wouldnt start... Popped the muffler off and it looks like it was straight gassed or had one hell of an air leak.

Looks like I'll be doing a 346 A/M top end on it for a toy... May get a little crazy with it.

Nice, keep us updated.

 

[Homelite410]

Please tell me the crank seals are new!

 

[Red97]

Please tell me the crank seals are new!

Yessir, every bearing/seal/rubber that can be replaced is new.

No reason to chance it because of a $5 seal or $2 line.

I did not know any history on this saw, I got it in a bucket just like the pic on the first page. I figure it is better to be safe than sorry.

 

[Grits & Gravy]

Here's my freebie... It was dirty but the logo isn't even worn off the bar..

Not sure how it got so nasty in all the cracks and crevices, the saw isn't even scratched up hardly, looks like he was cutting firewood in a used motor oil pond or something.

 

[Grits & Gravy]

Wow... The A/M cylinders for these are cheap!

What's the difference in the "Low" version?