Have the tools - will buy the sealant. In your experience, do you have an idea of the average factory squish?
husky 61 carb fo' mo' power
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Have the tools - will buy the sealant. In your experience, do you have an idea of the average factory squish?
nmurph
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It varies, but usually it is at least .030"+.
Put a new ring in the saw while you have it apart, and scrape any carbon from the combustion chamber and exhaust ports.
OK. Sounds good. How about a clean cross-hatch on cyl wall? Not necessary? Preference for ring type/brand, or, retailer to use for this? THanks.
nmurph
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They are cheaper from Bailey's, etc...but they aren't too bad from the dealer. If you are in a hurry, let the dealer order them if they can get them in a couple of days. If not, just look for Caber rings.
There likely isn't any reason to hone the cylinder. If you have ball hones, then a few strokes won't hurt. You could also take some 200 grit sandpaper and hit it some. I would be more concerned with checking the walls to make sure you don't have any sort of imperfections. The piston will tell the story of the cylinder's condition. If the piston is smooth, then all is probably well with the cylinder walls. This cylinder likely has some carbon build-up and I would get as much of it out as I could. If you work in the exhaust port, make sure you leave it very smooth or it will tend to collect carbon first. I would also pull the decomp (I think this saw has one) and de-carbon it. A dowel rod with sandpaper taped to the end can help with the combustion chamber.
I make mistakes when I rush. Plus, a situation has forced me to slow way down. That's probably a good thing. So, no rushing for me.
The ideas everyone has suggested here make sense to me, probably just what I need to do. I can save the big-bore stuff for later.
I'm looking forward to what should be a fun project. Thanks!
The ideas everyone has suggested here make sense to me, probably just what I need to do. I can save the big-bore stuff for later.
I'm looking forward to what should be a fun project. Thanks!
hs260 carb on 61
Bought a used 61 that had a hs254 (I think that is the right number) carb. Compression is high enough that if it is tough to pull. It will snatch the rope out of your hand. So I ordered a new hs260 and intake to go on it. Cover was not one for hs260, a simple adaption was to cut a piece of clear hose that would go over the idle adjustment screw and cut a matching hole in the cover that the hose would fit in. Works great, not noticeable.
Have another 61, when I took it down to put a new 272 p&c on it, discovered it had a hs260 carb with a 61 intake block that had been opened up a little to match carb. Ran ok but was down on compression, that was the reason for the 272 p&c. Did some port widening and timing check and adjustment. Must be a later model as the cover was for a hs260. Only other mod was to the intake bolts. 61 bolts are larger diameter than 272 so I turned the 61 bolts down on the threaded end and rethreaded to the right size.
These saws are easy to work on, but the intake port design does not lend itself to maximum porting.
Larry
Bought a used 61 that had a hs254 (I think that is the right number) carb. Compression is high enough that if it is tough to pull. It will snatch the rope out of your hand. So I ordered a new hs260 and intake to go on it. Cover was not one for hs260, a simple adaption was to cut a piece of clear hose that would go over the idle adjustment screw and cut a matching hole in the cover that the hose would fit in. Works great, not noticeable.
Have another 61, when I took it down to put a new 272 p&c on it, discovered it had a hs260 carb with a 61 intake block that had been opened up a little to match carb. Ran ok but was down on compression, that was the reason for the 272 p&c. Did some port widening and timing check and adjustment. Must be a later model as the cover was for a hs260. Only other mod was to the intake bolts. 61 bolts are larger diameter than 272 so I turned the 61 bolts down on the threaded end and rethreaded to the right size.
These saws are easy to work on, but the intake port design does not lend itself to maximum porting.
Larry
Hi Larry. Thanks for those tips. I've had this 61 since '85. I've taken care of it, it's been exceptionally reliable.
I'm looking to minor freshening, plus would like to build-in a bit more torque. Thus, the info from you all on this forum, and, a thread with pictures I found on the Forestry Forum (here: http://www.##################/board/index.php/topic,48687.0.html ) is going to be very useful to me.
One of the members made a comment that the HS-260 carb might be overkill on a mostly stock 61. Made sense. So, I found and bought a used -254 from a small Vermont outfit called Chainsawr. I'll re-ring 'er and probably do the squish mod.
Thanks! steve
I'm looking to minor freshening, plus would like to build-in a bit more torque. Thus, the info from you all on this forum, and, a thread with pictures I found on the Forestry Forum (here: http://www.##################/board/index.php/topic,48687.0.html ) is going to be very useful to me.
One of the members made a comment that the HS-260 carb might be overkill on a mostly stock 61. Made sense. So, I found and bought a used -254 from a small Vermont outfit called Chainsawr. I'll re-ring 'er and probably do the squish mod.
Thanks! steve
I pulled the p&c off the 61. Looks good w/just a bit of carbon. The squish is .042. I'm thinking this is an early version 61 due to not having a comp release and the carb is a -163a. Then I thought what the hell... Bought a used 272 p&c. Has a -224 carb. Is that enough carb for this cu. in.?
