husky cuts 2-3" sideways, then binds

[ohgood]

View attachment 950512View attachment 950513

I've been through this before on my own saws and cured it by changing the bar and got a new chain. The OP mentioned his setup was a new bar and new chain yet we've seen from his pictures that the chain has been re-sharpened. Then someone pointed out that the chain being used is a thin kerf chain and maybe not appropriate for the bar being used.

I'll admit, I beat the crap out of my bars and the chains wear the rails down. When the bars flair, that makes them wider than the kerf in the wood created by the chain and hangs the saw bar to one side of the other and eventually it gets stuck. The fix is to file/grind down the rails so the chain is just a bit wider that the bar(as it's supposed to be) thus allowing the chain to cut and the bar to follow. If the bar in this case is new, and the chain is new but is a thin kerf chain, that tells me that the chain is too thin possibly for the bar meaning the bar is wide enough to get caught in the cut as opposed to the chain clearing the way even if both are new.

Possible fix? Take the bar and the chain back to the dealer and have them match the chain with the bar. Just buying the right length chain isn't always the right purchase.

yup, I started clearing this tree with a fresh bar and chain. I've seen worn bars before, when one side was obviously flattened out and the other thinned.... but this started with new.

then it cut sideways and I bought new again.

same result.

now I'm hoping that replacing the wear plate works.

 

[capetrees]

something like these, although, I know, they don't match

 

[ohgood]

can you take a pic of the stamped numbers at the base of the bar and the actual box from your chain to compare to see if everything is matched?

I measured them, they matched, see attached

 

[Brufab]

I throw alot of chains cutting small brush. But my cs 400 doesn't have that plate like the op saw does. I cut some gnarly brush. I know I'm probly putting torque on the saw/bar to cause this.

 

[Oletrapper]

none of these chains have been filed. when it started cutting sideways I stopped and swapped. then when the second did the same thing , I considered sharpening but realized I had a bigger issue than dull chains and figured I better get qualified opinions, instead of messing up the chain by trying to sharpen it.

they literally went from the package to oil to saw.

Considering the fact that you never sharpened the chain, I would have to say the chain/chains are hitting something in the wood your cutting as that shiny spot (looks like a file mark) should not be there. Having said that, there is the possibility that you have run into a batch of BAD chains from the manufacture. Please don't think it can't happen. Several years ago the alternator on my F-350 died. I replaced it with new. Not reman. It lasted 2 days. Took it back and exchanged for another NEW. It lasted a day. Went through the whole thing again. After the 3rd one died I got a refund and I changed dealerships and bought another new one. It is still on the truck. Just saying.
OT

 

[buzz sawyer]

Now I see the problem - it's an X Cut chain. You are only cutting one half of the X. Need to go on the other side and cut the other half of the X. Just had to throw in a little humor.

Maybe this was already mentioned - How tight are you setting the chain? Maybe too loose and hitting on the side and damaging the cutters?

 

[ohgood]

Now I see the problem - it's an X Cut chain. You are only cutting one half of the X. Need to go on the other side and cut the other half of the X. Just had to throw in a little humor.

Maybe this was already mentioned - How tight are you setting the chain? Maybe too loose and hitting on the side and damaging the cutters?

View attachment 950550

I've always tightened it enough to pull about 1/4 to 1/3 of the link out of the bar.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Sounds good. How is it after cutting the curve - looser?

 

[TRTermite]

Is the bar mounting flat to the motor side Just curious if a bar stud has been over torqued or a bad jamb (accident) bulged the face under the inner plate letting the bar do what it should not do after a few cuts. this would add up to the drive links tending to favor the outer edge of the spur as mentioned (post #66) with the blue and red circles. I would think if this is the issue oiling would be affected but after reading 7 pages (128 posts)A Fella needs to refocus for a change of scenery. My first thought after seeing the canted cut was that is a cat face blemish by the cut some cat faces are overgrown on metal or something. But you have changed that notion with your logic of other saw, new bars and chain, cutting a pine log, etc.

 

[arathol]

one of the previous posters had circled some blue splotches on the wood, and suggested that there could be steel(a nail or similar) in the woods. I assumed that was what could have damaged the chain cutters

the second picture is the tree I was cutting, showing how wildly off the cutters are from straight.

Well now, I am that "previous poster" that posted that picture. However, you could not have assumed at the time (in post #21) that anything in the picture was the problem because I didn't post that picture or even bring up the subject of inclusions until the next page (post # 50)........only the damage to the cutter and possibly hitting something had been discussed. What was it that you assumed had damaged the cutters at the time you posted the question?

that's a very good question. in not seeing the damage y'all are, but I don't know what to . look for

I posted pictures of damage. Did you look? The red circle shows where the back side of the cutter has hit something hard....There seemed to be several like that......

Also, why is it that the damage to the saw is on the left, but the damaged cutters are on the right.......
There is part of this story that isn't being told.....

yes, there was a good amount of saw dust and grime packed into saw, I didn't dig it all out until I read the bar could be improperly aligned. then I bushed all the gunk out and checked for square. that's when I saw the damage.

Seems to me that if the saw was ripping into the guide plate the damage would not be covered with saw dust. It should have been pretty obvious, especially when you removed the sprocket to take the picture shown on page 1 of this thread...or when you replaced the bar and chain twice......or was it three times?

 

[Dudders]

Fascinating thread!

My contribution:
1. Is the saw oiling properly? Point it at a clean surface and rev it up. You should see a line of oil immediately developing on that surface, thrown off by the chain as it goes round the nose. With no oil, that chain will heat up within 10 cuts to a point where it would be stuffed. You can also check oil flow by revving the saw with the chain, bar and side plate off and observing if oil comes out of the exit hole;
2. If you haven't changed the sprocket in 13 years, it's high time for a new one. Even if just to eliminate 'worn sprocket' as a possible cause of this problem. It's not expensive;
3. Examine your chains minutely, under a magnifying glass and in good light. Look for anything odd, but especially the entire vertical and horizontal cutting edge of each cutter. They should be absolutely razor sharp, all the way up the side and along the top, with no rounding off at all. In your case, it's likely you'll find the cutting edge of the vertical section of each of the right-hand cutters is worn. Next challenge will be to find out why. Look for signs of rubbing on the side plate or the outer casing. If your cutters are damaged but they're not getting damaged by the saw, then it's the wood;
4. Final option - don't fight with it yourself if you're not that experienced. Take it to a good service agent and get the saw completely overhauled. A good idea anyway at the age it is.

 

[ChasSC]

I measured them, they matched, see attached

From post #123
Your chain is on backwards; did that ever happen before. It can happen by mistake. Would also make a lot of sense to some of the damage, especially the plate/cover. My neighbor brought me both his saws for me to sharpen, both chains were on backwards, and he had been cutting with them like that. Also, that's not an original clutch sprocket. There is absolutely no chain wear on the top, even after making as few of cuts as you describe, there would be some noticeable chain groove markings. Something is not right in Dodge. You need to come clean with all the information. Let's forget about the bar and chain for now, that's going nowhere. Show pictures of the inside of your saw showing the clutch and the bar mounting area. Then mount your bar and chain without the side cover and take the same pictures. It looks kind of obvious the chain has slapped around a bit, probably too loose that may be why you've thrown chains.

 

[Brufab]

This is getting intersting.... The Xcut files.

 

[arathol]

The OP mentioned his setup was a new bar and new chain yet we've seen from his pictures that the chain has been re-sharpened. Then someone pointed out that the chain being used is a thin kerf chain and maybe not appropriate for the bar being used.

The bar is also a narrow kerf bar, and its clearly marked as such in the pictures.

 

[capetrees]

From post #123
You chain is on backwards;

Of course, thats the root of ALL the problems if thats true.

 

[Dudders]

i usually cut one or two on a new chain, then check its tension. arrive 4-5 I cleaned it out, let it cool, and tension was good. it's hard to trust "new" things when they're flying that fast and full of sharp teeth. it seemed fine at 8-10 when it went sideways.

You shouldn't have to let it cool after 4-5 cuts of a trunk that size. Should be able to go all day without needing to be cooled. If it's that hot, it's not oiling. If it's not oiling, it'll be done for by 10 cuts.

 

[Oletrapper]

Well now, I am that "previous poster" that posted that picture. However, you could not have assumed at the time (in post #21) that anything in the picture was the problem because I didn't post that picture or even bring up the subject of inclusions until the next page (post # 50)........only the damage to the cutter and possibly hitting something had been discussed. What was it that you assumed had damaged the cutters at the time you posted the question?

I posted pictures of damage. Did you look? The red circle shows where the back side of the cutter has hit something hard....There seemed to be several like that......

Also, why is it that the damage to the saw is on the left, but the damaged cutters are on the right.......
There is part of this story that isn't being told.....


Seems to me that if the saw was ripping into the guide plate the damage would not be covered with saw dust. It should have been pretty obvious, especially when you removed the sprocket to take the picture shown on page 1 of this thread...or when you replaced the bar and chain twice......or was it three times?

That cutter is a right side cutter. That's the mark (looks like a file mark to me) that I was talking about. If there are a bunch of those, it will definitely try to cut a circle. Dull on right, sharp on left equals circle cut. Now all you need to do is figure out what is hitting the teeth on that side.
I tried to circle it but at my age, lucky to be able to type. lmao
OT

 

[Oletrapper]

This is getting intersting.... The Xcut files.

Too funny

 

[Oletrapper]

From post #123
Your chain is on backwards; did that ever happen before. It can happen by mistake. Would also make a lot of sense to some of the damage, especially the plate/cover. My neighbor brought me both his saws for me to sharpen, both chains were on backwards, and he had been cutting with them like that. Also, that's not an original clutch sprocket. There is absolutely no chain wear on the top, even after making as few of cuts as you describe, there would be some noticeable chain groove markings. Something is not right in Dodge. You need to come clean with all the information. Let's forget about the bar and chain for now, that's going nowhere. Show pictures of the inside of your saw showing the clutch and the bar mounting area. Then mount your bar and chain without the side cover and take the same pictures. It looks kind of obvious the chain has slapped around a bit, probably too loose that may be why you've thrown chains.

I don't think he could have made 1 cut let alone 10 before it started to circle. lol

 

[Brufab]

Of course, thats the root of ALL the problems if thats true.

I came across a fireman once that was running his chain backwards and was wondering why it wouldn't cut I will tell ya what when I pointed that out to him he was really pist off maybe from embarrassment or what not but I solved his problem.