husqvarna 357 intake question

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bdubya

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Hi All. Should I remove the cylinder to replace the intake on my husqvarna 357. I picked the saw
up for $40. Removed the Walbro carb and looked into the piston. I could not see any scoring. I ordered a new zama carb and the metal clip to replace on the intake and just wanted to see what experience folks have had with this upgrade. Thanks
 
I would. Either order a new base gasket or your choice of sealant beforehand. If you choose no gasket make sure the clearance around the squish band allows adequate clearance.
 
Its alot easier if you remove the cylinder. I used a clamp from a 372xp, its like a regular hose clamp. I just did the same thing, purchased a 357xp for $45. It ran but really hard to start. Took cylinder off and found cylinder and piston scored real bad. Ordered replacement P/C kit and new intake and zama carb. Just got it running again today.
 
The only 357 ive had the cylinder off had squish about .015 without a base gasket. I would definitely pull the cylinder to do that job. replace the partition along with the clamp (thought they came together?), replace base gasket with beer can gasket that gives .004 or so, and off ya go.
 
Thank you all for the advice. I will pull the cylinder and check the squash to determine the proper gasket. Hopefully I can get it this weekend. Best regards
 
I've deleted the base gasket on a few 357's and always get a squish around .020" which is spot on. Big bump in compression too, usually tops out around 190-200 psi. The metal clamp isn't so bad after doin a few, first couple were a b**ch.
 
OK team. I checked the cylinder out by replacing the carb, closing the plastic clamp, and running it. The good news is it runs great. Now I just need to get that pita clamp from the dealer and on the saw. Wish me luck all.
 
Might as well install a new Caber ring while you have the cyl off.....never be any closer....or at least check the end gap on the old one....if more than 0.008"- 0.010" or so replace....also...generally looking at the piston from the intake side won't tell the story......most wear/scoring etc. happens on the exhaust side....and if it's been run with a loose boot there may well be issues that are much easier to deal with now before it s worse.
 
That is interesting. Being new to this I did not understand. Thanks for the 411. I will investigate before running again and then removing the cylinder to install the manifold clamp.
 
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