Husqvarna 394XP vs 395XP

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Mine has never vapor locked either, actually I usually don't run premium. But I don't think that will make a difference in vapor locking.

Also between you and your buddies saw, there is going to be some differences, between the two of you, you may run yours a little better, and maybe you can get your chain sharper then his. I really don't think there is much concerable difference between the two to be worried about.

Oh I'm sure they are darn near identical. I know I can run a sharper chain than he can, and I get a little more aggressive with rakers because I can (he weighs in at about 180, I'm 240 :chainsaw: , he's always whining about kickback...)

I just put on the 25" Bar and the Skip Chisel chain, and its right about the speed where he is with full comp on a 24" bar. That oughta tell you how aggressive I can run it.
 
Oh I'm sure they are darn near identical. I know I can run a sharper chain than he can, and I get a little more aggressive with rakers because I can (he weighs in at about 180, I'm 240 :chainsaw: , he's always whining about kickback...)

I just put on the 25" Bar and the Skip Chisel chain, and its right about the speed where he is with full comp on a 24" bar. That oughta tell you how aggressive I can run it.

Yep, I rest my case.
 
395 vs 394

They're both BAD A$$ machines..........lol:greenchainsaw: :chainsaw:
 
Took another look at the manuals the 394 produces 8800 KW/RPM and the 395 produces 8700 KW/RPM. I find this interesting considering if it is true about the 4 transfer ports on the 395. Both saws have a max rpm of 12,500. The other difference is they have two different carberators! An interesting test would be to try a 394 carb on a 395. The 395 carb is probably a smogger! (if you know what I mean)
With 4 transfer ports rather than 2 that saw should tear $hit up!
I would like to see more performance stuff available.
Everyone likes HP right:greenchainsaw:
 
Hp

Took another look at the manuals the 394 produces 8800 KW/RPM and the 395 produces 8700 KW/RPM. I find this interesting considering if it is true about the 4 transfer ports on the 395. Both saws have a max rpm of 12,500. The other difference is they have two different carberators! An interesting test would be to try a 394 carb on a 395. The 395 carb is probably a smogger! (if you know what I mean)
With 4 transfer ports rather than 2 that saw should tear $hit up!
I would like to see more performance stuff available.
Everyone likes HP right:greenchainsaw:

Either of these saws aren't lacking HP....that's for sure. But f&*kin right we like HP.......lol:greenchainsaw:
 
Took another look at the manuals the 394 produces 8800 KW/RPM and the 395 produces 8700 KW/RPM. I find this interesting considering if it is true about the 4 transfer ports on the 395. Both saws have a max rpm of 12,500. The other difference is they have two different carberators! An interesting test would be to try a 394 carb on a 395. The 395 carb is probably a smogger! (if you know what I mean)
With 4 transfer ports rather than 2 that saw should tear $hit up!
I would like to see more performance stuff available.
Everyone likes HP right:greenchainsaw:


8800 KW, and even 8700, would be pretty much even for a battle tank.....:jawdrop: :jawdrop:
 
As far as Husky ratings, arn't they both rated at 7.1hp? I can't imagine you could tell the difference between the two.

My 394 has a front chain adjuster.

The problem with that is, one could be 7.05hp and the other could be 7.14hp, and either round down or round up to make it 7.1hp...............:greenchainsaw:
 
welcome. i thought i would find a newb at the end of this older thread.

is my saw a low top or high top?

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Took another look at the manuals the 394 produces 8800 KW/RPM and the 395 produces 8700 KW/RPM. I find this interesting considering if it is true about the 4 transfer ports on the 395. Both saws have a max rpm of 12,500. The other difference is they have two different carberators! An interesting test would be to try a 394 carb on a 395. The 395 carb is probably a smogger! (if you know what I mean)
With 4 transfer ports rather than 2 that saw should tear $hit up!
I would like to see more performance stuff available.
Everyone likes HP right:greenchainsaw:

a 394 carb won't fit on a 395 due to different intake manifolds. the 395 has a rubber intake like a 385 and a 394 has a hard plastic one
 
welcome. i thought i would find a newb at the end of this older thread.

is my saw a low top or high top?

attachment.php

Your saw is a high top and considered to provide better air filtration under very dusty conditions. I am currently working up 2 of the 394`s and will try my best to make both of them as powerful as possible. I have little porting info on this saw but have been porting saws for many years so I will try it in steps and note the differences step by step. I have 4 cylinders and pistons to work with and not worried about going too far on any one of them.
Pioneerguy600
 
A couple guys mentioned 24 and 25" bars on the 394/395 saws, put a 42" with full comp. chain and a knee in the saw on a 50"+ whiteoak, then race.I owned a two port 394 non-XP with a low top that would stretch .50 gauge chains it had so much torque.I had 4-5 at one time XPs included and also have seen a closed and open port variants of this saw.The real advantage of the new rubber intake is crash damage or a lack thereof.One shot to the filter,intake, or carb and most 394's have to have a new intake manifold.The 395's rarely get their intakes replaced unless pulled apart or torn.
 
Yip

Fits what I have been able to find out - but the power-band could be different, even though max hp is the same.

.....but then there may be other differences that changes the picture again, likely EPA-inflicted ones....

+1 brother Troll. That power band is a big thing. You take say a 357xp and put it up against an old 60cc Stihl and it's a crying shame in the difference. You can't slow an old 041 down. Both same cc's about, but the old Stihl has a ton more torque. It also weighs a ton more and turns alot slower. All I've heard in diff from 394 to 395 is the epa crap. Both 7.1hp. I love my 394. 394 and 056mag are both 94cc's, but the 056 will kill it in big wood for sure. It's not even close. EPA usually ruins the saws for low end torque IMO...

:cheers: eh?
 
A couple guys mentioned 24 and 25" bars on the 394/395 saws, put a 42" with full comp.

i don't need a 24" inch bar but its fun to run it on a 394. i've got a 125 with a 60" for........i don't know why i have a saw this big. i've only cut one tree where i needed it. i do have another one that may get cut this coming weekend where i will need something over 36".
 
. . . I am currently working up 2 of the 394`s and will try my best to make both of them as powerful as possible. I have little porting info on this saw but have been porting saws for many years so I will try it in steps and note the differences step by step. . . .

I realize this is an old thread, but I wanted to ask you P'guy if you have been still tinkering with the 394's. I'm considering porting my 395, but since I use it for milling mostly I'm wondering if that's a good idea. I am going to open up the muffler but would also like to get as much out of it as possible. Just don't know if a P & P is a good idea for a saw used primarily for milling.

It runs pretty good stock as it is. Here I'm milling with a 6' bar - dry nose. It did okay running full comp crosscut modified to 5º plates.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htJLByKl8dw





.
 
It's definatly a beast

Bought this for one job, when a Huge Oak lost a limb at one of my clients. I was scared of it when I bought it but now I just love the feel of it in my hands.
Never had had to work on it except I might have broke the rope I can't recall now for sure. I do recall not hitting the compression release the first time OUCh.
Spent a night in jail for it after someone stole it and I beat the hell out of him But, afterwards it magically reappeared .
I have used it since for milling on occasion and it still has its original bar, probably less than 40 hours run time on it.
Just two little issues One it keeps vibrating a screw out that makes the bar oil leak and two I have not been able to get a tension assembly for it locally and lost the original when I put it up once upon a time ago so I have to pull it tight by hand and it just don't hold that good. I need to get a shorter bar and chain but this one has its advantage in reaching out LOL.

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