Husqvarna Two Cycle Oil and Stabilizer Questions.

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ANewSawyer

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I am new to saws but have gotten a lot of great info off of this site. I use 100% gas to mix with my oil. I have switched to Husqvarna oil in my trimmer and am thinking about using it in my chainsaw too. It is this stuff: http://www.lowes.com/pd_220373-572-...l&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=2+cycle+oil&facetInfo=

Is this a good oil? Does it really matter what two cycle oil I use?
That bottle doesn't show it but my bottle says that the oil contains fuel stabilizer. How long will that fuel be good for? Is there any reason to add another stabilizer? BTW, if I did add another stabilizer, it would be Startron. I am reading good stuff about it on here.
 
I would use that oil. As long as the oil is FD rated brand is irrelevant.
 
I am new to saws but have gotten a lot of great info off of this site. I use 100% gas to mix with my oil. I have switched to Husqvarna oil in my trimmer and am thinking about using it in my chainsaw too. It is this stuff: http://www.lowes.com/pd_220373-572-2.6 OIL MIX_0__?productId=1166629&Ntt=2 cycle oil&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=2+cycle+oil&facetInfo=

Is this a good oil? Does it really matter what two cycle oil I use?
That bottle doesn't show it but my bottle says that the oil contains fuel stabilizer. How long will that fuel be good for? Is there any reason to add another stabilizer? BTW, if I did add another stabilizer, it would be Startron. I am reading good stuff about it on here.
Oh goody! Yet another oil thread. :D
It matters very much what oil you use, if you value your engine(s).
Just go for a full-synthetic mix oil for air-cooled 2-strokes, that meets two standards: JASO FC or FD, and ISO-L-EGD.
If they say mix it at 100:1, think 50:1. Don't get suckered into paying extra bucks for a brand name on the label.
 
Any full synthetic mix oil air cooled for two strokes meeting standards like the others said is just fine. On the issue of stabilizers I always even if it is ethanol free add stabil because condensation inside tanks and what not and I don't trust gas station.
 
Any full synthetic mix oil air cooled for two strokes meeting standards like the others said is just fine. On the issue of stabilizers I always even if it is ethanol free add stabil because condensation inside tanks and what not and I don't trust gas station.

Why doesn't Husqvarna make a FULL synthetic mix if that's the way to go? Their XP (silver bottle) and the LP (black bottle) are both synthetic BLENDS, that Husqvarna recommends for use in their saws. Not trying to start a fight, but in all the pages upon pages of oil threads here and other places, I can't find any reason why a big time saw maker that manufactures some high performance units, like Husqvarna, ONLY makes a synthetic blend.

I use the Stihl Ultra full synthetic, which is CHEAPER than the Husky or Echo blended oils.

Sorry for the hijack...
 
I run AMSoil full syn sabre 100:1 oil in all my 2stroke gear and have for many years. I mix at about 70:1 and have for years with no problems (including backpack blowers run at full throttle for basically hours straight. All my saws and my weed eater are muff modded and are being given more air/fuel than from the factory so that helps. I have worked at 2 high end golf courses for the last 15 years and thats what they use mixed at 80:1 and i think i only saw 1 weedie die from running lean because a clogged fuel filter and brainless operator. Importance of good synthetic oil AFTER break-in of a new engine cannot be overstated.
 
Hey, Sawyer, I didn't mean to say that full synthetic is the ONLY way to go, I was wondering (rudely in your thread) why Husky & Echo make only blends. I've used the Husqvarna pre-mixed fuel (with the XP oil) in the winter when the saws usually sit for awhile, and have zero issues.

Actually, I ran out of fuel, and only had a 2.6oz Husky XP, mixed it with $3.00 worth of Hess Plus (.85 gals = 40:1) and I was off and cutting with no issues.
There's nothing wrong with the name brand synthetic blends.

There's smarter and more knowledgeable guys here than me, and there's a TON of reading about oils and mix ratios and tuning. Read then make your own informed decision.

Again, sorry for the hijack. I'll go home now...
 
Some will argue that a full synthetic is best and some will argue dino oil is fine and then some will say a semi synthetic is the best of both worlds. I've used some of the best synthetic oils out there but for about $20 a quart. I heard good stuff about the Lucas semi synthetic so i tried it and it has almost no smell and burns VERY clean so im sold on it now.
ef9addd4201018ea690d47465233fe3c.jpg


$2.99 for 2.6oz bottle, $9.99 a quart or $30.99 a gallon at your local O'Reilley's auto parts store.
 
I want as many opinions as I can get. I don't understand what you guys mean by a "full synthetic mix oil". That is confusing terminology to me. Is it a synthetic blend oil or a fully synthetic oil?
 
I want as many opinions as I can get. I don't understand what you guys mean by a "full synthetic mix oil". That is confusing terminology to me. Is it a synthetic blend oil or a fully synthetic oil?
Opinions are not really gonna help you because they're gonna be all acrossed the board. This thread will hit 100 pages and you'll still be scratching your head:laugh: my opinion is just find a good oil that is ISO GD API TC and FD rated and go cut wood

Ratios will be argued too 50:1,40:1,32:1 is most common im in the 32:1 camp
 
Opinions are not really gonna help you because they're gonna be all acrossed the board. This thread will hit 100 pages and you'll still be scratching your head:laugh: my opinion is just find a good oil that is ISO GD API TC and FD rated and go cut wood

Ratios will be argued too 50:1,40:1,32:1 is most common im in the 32:1 camp

^^^^^
Yup...what he said!
 
Seems to be totally up to personal opinion, as long as it is a name brand oil. YMMV on that Honestly, the Husky oil would probably be fine. If I were to change, I would go to the Lucas (locally available. Yay!) and add Startron. The question is, sooner or later?

As far as ratio, I am going to go with what ever the manual says. In this case, it is 50:1 (Husqvarna 435).

Off topic: This reminds me of my days as a knife nut when a newb would ask what the best blade steel was. Those were interesting threads. I finally realized it was totally personal opinion.
 
Why doesn't Husqvarna make a FULL synthetic mix if that's the way to go? Their XP (silver bottle) and the LP (black bottle) are both synthetic BLENDS, that Husqvarna recommends for use in their saws. Not trying to start a fight, but in all the pages upon pages of oil threads here and other places, I can't find any reason why a big time saw maker that manufactures some high performance units, like Husqvarna, ONLY makes a synthetic blend.

I use the Stihl Ultra full synthetic, which is CHEAPER than the Husky or Echo blended oils.

Sorry for the hijack...

For one, Husqvarna is not a petroleum refiner. Likely ALL saw companies, and many others, have it blended and labeled for them.

When you see "blend" and don't see spec about actual percentage, figure on 1% or more. Marketeering as all about that.

The big difference, for me, between various oils is the ability to minimize deposits in the ring grooves. That's way out of sight until things get torn down. It's critical for long-term mechanical health, and apparently done much better with synthetics than dino.
 
Some will argue that a full synthetic is best and some will argue dino oil is fine and then some will say a semi synthetic is the best of both worlds. I've used some of the best synthetic oils out there but for about $20 a quart. I heard good stuff about the Lucas semi synthetic so i tried it and it has almost no smell and burns VERY clean so im sold on it now.
ef9addd4201018ea690d47465233fe3c.jpg


$2.99 for 2.6oz bottle, $9.99 a quart or $30.99 a gallon at your local O'Reilley's auto parts store.
Lucas is what I use mostly. Good stuff!
But I do use Stihl ultra, Stihl dino, Husky XP and Echo oil.
Some say synthetic blend is better than full synthetic...
 
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