hyd. oil splitter question

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J.W Younger

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Just checked the oil level in my 22 ton speedco,its low but clean.Tag near fill plug says hyd. oil or dextronII ATF. I have 4 gallons of ATF4 which is a synthetic blend. Would this be o.k. and should I just add some or drain and refill?
Thanks in advance.
Jerry
 
What do you have in the tank now? If its ATF you should fine if not I would drain and re-fill it. ATF will run better in the cold. Or just top it off with normal hyd fluid AW32 I would not mix the fluids
 
What do you have in the tank now? If its ATF you should fine if not I would drain and re-fill it. ATF will run better in the cold. Or just top it off with normal hyd fluid AW32 I would not mix the fluids

Its clear so I,m assuming hyd. oil. don,t have any but can go get a quart.
thanx
 
i have heard from hydro engineers that you can run just about any type of oil in a hydro tank, and able to mix it to about any degree and it will run fine.

my splitters have some hydro fluid and some regular engine oil of varying weights - when i change a valve or something i'll pour in some of whatever i have laying around. runs fine.

my dads splitters have literally thousands of hours on them and he never changes the oil. his are a combination of atf fluid, hydro fluid and engine oil. never had problems.
 
i have heard from hydro engineers that you can run just about any type of oil in a hydro tank, and able to mix it to about any degree and it will run fine.

my splitters have some hydro fluid and some regular engine oil of varying weights - when i change a valve or something i'll pour in some of whatever i have laying around. runs fine.

my dads splitters have literally thousands of hours on them and he never changes the oil. his are a combination of atf fluid, hydro fluid and engine oil. never had problems.
Thanks for the info I just added 3qts of ATF this put me just above the add mark. My return line has been cut several times by falling splits and have lost some over the years. Bad place too put it. Need too modify it I guess but I,m basically lazy.
 
i've mixed mine with hydraulic fluid and ATF.

never had any problems.

we had a guy here once who claimed you could throw engine oil in there as well.....but, i never wanted to try it.
 
engine oil should be fine...they spec engine oil in hydraulic drive equiptment actually....my new Ferris zero turn mower runs mobil 1 10w30 in the hydraulic tank....my bobcat mini-skid steer calls for 10w30 also and it's got hydro drive and cylinders all feeding off that tank.
 
Oil

I just did the 100 hour service on my splitter; I had Dexetron III. I switched over to 10W AW. I didn't notice any difference, but I will find out by the time my next 100 hours are up.

I kept and filtered the used Dexetron III and I am running it through my chainsaw oilers. "I am not a big believer in $6.00 gallons on oil for my saw bars". Since I cut several different types of wood each time I cut (oak, maple, cherry & fir) I like the bar to stay clean and cool, it does.
 
Green with envy....I want one soooo bad....

That was last years big purchase..a serious machine...I of course didn't plan to spend that much but talked myself into one with real hydraulics and not the home depot all in one transaxles...cut my mowing time from 3-4 hours to my new record of 1hr 9 minutes :) I plan to beat that this summer at some point....
 
I have 2 gallons of the green jug Poulan oil for waiting for winter use... too thin for summer but thickens right up when it's 20-40F out. If you can find the "Poulan Pro" oil in the black jug, it's thicker. I got a couple jugs of that at Wally World for $4.95 a gallon a couple years ago, wish I had bought a case of 12 instead.

Ian
 
my splitter wont retract...it was slowing on the retract, fine on the forward split motion..

changed the fluid and filter....and it still does not work. any way to tell if its the pump or the valve?

im thinking its the valve, since it was driving and splitting pretty well.



any help would be apprecaited.
 
my splitter wont retract...it was slowing on the retract, fine on the forward split motion..

changed the fluid and filter....and it still does not work. any way to tell if its the pump or the valve?

im thinking its the valve, since it was driving and splitting pretty well.



any help would be apprecaited.

I'd definitely be looking at the valve, with it working fine on the extend stroke, it pretty much rules the pump out. The only other thing that crosses my mind, and it's a long shot, could be a partially collapsed return line. Just thinking this, because you are returning more oil to the tank on the return stroke than while extending.

Just thought of one other thing: Make sure your control is working properly. I got snow and ice built up on mine last winter and didn't get full movement and had a similar experience for a little bit till I started investigating.

Steve
 
I have 2 gallons of the green jug Poulan oil for waiting for winter use... too thin for summer but thickens right up when it's 20-40F out. If you can find the "Poulan Pro" oil in the black jug, it's thicker. I got a couple jugs of that at Wally World for $4.95 a gallon a couple years ago, wish I had bought a case of 12 instead.

Ian
tractor supply had it on sale a while back for 6.99, not sure if they still do.
slings off but I,m gonna use up the 2 gal I bought.
 
Slow reaction

My splitter was doing that; I changed the oil from dexetron III to 10W AW and it is fine now. We will see in 100 hours what happens.

I hoseclamp a 6" piece of magnet to the filter too. An old trick to collect fine metal shavings.
 
Oil prices

Out here in NW Oregon (not in Portland) the most Ive seen bar oil is 8 bucks at Wal-mart/ Schucks/NAPA etc.

Usually, I buy cases of 30 WT for .99 a quart.

My neighbors (up the road) are the best! The one that owns a vineyard/winery just offered me a 55 gal drum of 10WT hydro oil.:greenchainsaw:
 
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