I FINALLY finished my shop!

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The thread is about the young fellows shop.so if you want to compare ledgers with me I am more than willing to do that. Time to be polite to the young fellow and time to get over being a keyboard warrior that likely the only farm thing you did was being a shovel boy at a terminal years ago or that is the way you cone across
Ouch! Another pissing contest? Talking about being polite? NOT! jmho :cool: OT
 
Good luck with the overhead crane gantry with the magnetic hoist used on stainless. (just kidding). End clamps with eye hooks will suffice.
Be sure to visit your local scrap yard for learning material. Learning curve can be long and expensive.
In my old shop, many many years ago, I used an old single bar meat rail for my overhead gantry. Four different rails leading to different parts of the shop for different jobs with four different switch points. Similar to what is used on a railroad track. Much better methods available today.-
View attachment 1130907Similar to what I used in the 70s. Was able to purchase 300+ feet and switches for less than $200
Those days are gone forever. jmho :cool: OT
Actually, 300 series stainless is slightly magnetic but I get your comment none the less. I have literally oodles of steel plate in every dimension and gage in the big barn so practicing on scrap is a non issue here and being 'frugal' I tend to hang on all forms of steel anyway. I never toss anything as I might have a use for it someday. Only thing I do toss is bad reloading brass and that goes in a special container as brass brings a pretty good price at the local scrap yard.
 
Actually, 300 series stainless is slightly magnetic but I get your comment none the less. I have literally oodles of steel plate in every dimension and gage in the big barn so practicing on scrap is a non issue here and being 'frugal' I tend to hang on all forms of steel anyway. I never toss anything as I might have a use for it someday. Only thing I do toss is bad reloading brass and that goes in a special container as brass brings a pretty good price at the local scrap yard.
I understand frugal. Nobody reloads around here anymore. At our local club, I scrounge all the brass. lol. Brings a pretty penny here also. Sorry for hijacking the thread a little Mr.Metsa. lol :cool: OT
 
For his shed, if the plywood floor overlaps the floor joists and the rim joists they are tied together.

His Dad is a contractor; I’m sure that it is fine.

Philbert
Can I only put joist hangers on one side? I will be using Simpson connector screws to attach them. I think that I will only be able to fit underneath one half of my structure to get the hangers on.
 
Can I only put joist hangers on one side? I will be using Simpson connector screws to attach them. I think that I will only be able to fit underneath one half of my structure to get the hangers on.
they go on both ends/sides

any wood screw will be fine, I personally love GRK's but SPAX has good stuff, simpson as well
 
Can I only put joist hangers on one side? I will be using Simpson connector screws to attach them. I think that I will only be able to fit underneath one half of my structure to get the hangers on.
Check with your Dad. He is there and knows what’s going on.

I’m not convinced you even need them for that project.

Philbert
 
If you used screws in those joists you can skip the hangers. You might have to add another screw to each joist in 25 years to tighten things up again. People are over thinking this.
Now if it bothers you, there is a simple way to beef it up. If it were me I would skip the hangers and put a block between each joist at the rim. I would have doubled the rim joists. You probably already have the scrap lumber Save $100. Screw the blocks on the face of the rim, put two 16HDG toenails on the inside into the joist ends. For the doubled rim maybe two screws or nails every 16" or so. I would have also run blocks center span but that's just me.

But this is all nitpicking. The shop turned out great. I am very impressed.
 

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If you used screws in those joists you can skip the hangers. You might have to add another screw to each joist in 25 years to tighten things up again. People are over thinking this.
Now if it bothers you, there is a simple way to beef it up. If it were me I would skip the hangers and put a block between each joist at the rim. I would have doubled the rim joists. You probably already have the scrap lumber Save $100. Screw the blocks on the face of the rim, put two 16HDG toenails on the inside into the joist ends. For the doubled rim maybe two screws or nails every 16" or so. I would have also run blocks center span but that's just me.

But this is all nitpicking. The shop turned out great. I am very impressed.
You know any cheap crane guys? I could always lift the main frame off and put on hangers.
 
I finally finished building my shop after a week of working on it late daily after school. It was too dark to do exterior photos so I took a bunch of photos of the interior. I managed to get this built for $1300 and did most of it by myself with my dad's help on some of the big stuff such as the heavy and wet floor joists.

View attachment 1126825

I have all of my tools in one place and I love the little Stealth Mounts

Here is my YouTube video showing a little tour:



Here are the photos:

View attachment 1126826View attachment 1126827View attachment 1126828View attachment 1126829View attachment 1126830View attachment 1126831View attachment 1126832View attachment 1126833View attachment 1126834

It is a nice space for me to do projects and saw maintenance. It 100% beats dragging L-Boxxes in and out of my room all of the time and carrying saws in and out of the house.

The total build cost was about $1300.

Now that's impressive!You are in middle school and have such a workshop and tools.Damn,i wish i had such a shop.Like bro,where do you even have all the money for all the tools the saws and for building such a thing?Im really impressed.
 
You know any cheap crane guys? I could always lift the main frame off and put on hangers.
looking at about $400-600 for a "small" crane's minimum, im not sure how close the setup would be but im betting a 10 ton could do it for maybe a little cheaper
that being said, you are on the hook for the crane even if they cant set up or reach, once they leave the shop its all on you to make sure they can do their job
 
a simple floor jack would do it also, or just slide under there like I would do it, to add hangers on there it would take me all of 10 minutes with just a hammer and a handfull of nails
 

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