almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
What shape are the piston, ring and cylinder. If you don't have good compression you'll pull your arm off trying to start the saw.
I have a Partner 500 that will not start ?
- Thread starter Jeff Lary
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Well thats another question I put the old pistin and cylinder back on it but when I would not start I changed out the piston It looks good (?) looks ,......I do not have a way to check compression but i guess that should be done as well.I will have to take it some place to do that though. Wonder what they will charge me to do that.
Can you get an Idea with your thumb?
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Check by removing the ring from the piston and installing the piston correctly in the cylinder. Rock the piston back and forth, if there is any significant play you have issues. The piston, ring and/or the cylinder can not have any scoring/scratches that can be felt with a finger nail especially up high inside the cylinder near the spark plug hole.
Pictures can reveal alot and add to advice
Pictures can reveal alot and add to advice
Ok I can do that as well I guess.When you say install corectly what exactly do you mean? .On the top of the piston there is an arrow I have that pointed towards the exhaust? The piston movemant test this is done without the ring on the piston correct? If so wont the piston move quite a lot w/out the ring / I really have no Idea.
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Arrow to exhaust, no piston ring. Piston should have no movement once you install it all the way in to the cylinder. Main thing is no scratches that can be felt with your finger nail inside cylinder or on piston/ring
ok I will check I am sure the piston has scratches though small but there. I say that just because there may be some it is not a new saw been used by god only knows who .Sorry if me saying that made you think you had just wasted your time. But just trying to be honest it was sold to me for $20.00 so I gotta be realistic I guess.
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Yea thats gonna be a problem I do not have one of those.I guess the local saw shop could pull that off for me.If anyone out there has one to sell I am buy it?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
You stated you blew out carb but did you rebuild it? First thing I would have done was to put a carb kit in it. Sounds like a carb issue to me.
No but that may be on the list.
Now there's something to look at.
Well I am about ready to Give up.I came home today and went to the saw.First I brought the piston to TDC and looked at where the Flywheel magnets were in relation to the Coil poles ,..fine.But to be sure I removed the wheel to check the key ,...yup fine as well.Then on to the Coil I changed it out with one I had after finding out I could not get a new plug wire to screw on to that one ,just would not start on.So I changed the coil and ,...no fire reset the pole gap,... no fire.Turns out that with this saw having that small black ignition module it just would not accept the coils I had at least thats what I think.So I Put the orig Coil back in and checked the fire,... it is as Bright Blue as you have ever seen. So Good fire Next stop the Carb .I did not have a kit so I took it all apart Pump diaphram needle valve Hi/Lo jet screws top section as well then blew it all out w/ comp air.Put her all together with a new gasket I made from gasket material .Primed the cylinder and she started and run for 10 sec primed again same thing and over and over but if you touched the throttle it would immeadiately stall.Then it would not start at all. So then I rememberd a 500 carb that came on a saw i just bought that a tree fell on the saw so i put that running carb on the saw ,It will run 2 sec every time you pull it over but unless you remove the muffler it will not run.If you remove the muffler it will run but if you touch the throttle it dies. So I called a farm and garden sales place I have called before to get this certin persons advice.Oh one more thing I did take off the muffler and it would run then but still if you touched the throttle it would die and while it ran it was fogging the hell out of my right hand with fuel mist from the carb.Well I explained all this to him and he said it sounded flooded to him. I told him it would run every time I pulled it over for about (5,... put put put put's) when I told him about the muffler he said that when an engine is flooded that will help let the excess fuel escape but it could also mean that the piston or cylinder or both could be bad and that is where all the atomized gas form the carb was comming from .It was maybe leeking by the piston and being forced out the carb as a mist.So that's where I am now? What do you all think?
almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think you need to stop pulling on the recoil. It hasn't started after how many tries? FIRST step is you need to analyze the cylinder, piston and ring and report back......... Bad idea making internal gaskets for a carburetor. Pretty sure the Walbro gasket repair kit is part number K10-WAT . Beg, borrow but don't steal a digital camera. Members can help you with pictures of your project. DON'T GET FRUSTRATED
I guess I was not real clear the gasket I made goes between the carb and the mounting plate.I have cameras but have never tried to post a photo here is it hard to to? And would a photo really help? It's just a 500 sitting on a bench? I forgot to talk about the piston and cylinder yea I guess the next step is a compression test.
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almondgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use photobucket for pictures. From photobucket it is very easy to post on this site. You could provide pictures of the piston. There are many clues to the condition of a saw that can be gleaned from pictures.
Just my .02
Just my .02
Ok that sound's doable how do i pm you anyway?
