Is there a way to keep H screw from moving?

[Fuzly]

I threw out the Cat muffler on my 2159 and bought a non-cat and installed it. The saw was running great. Much happier than with the restricted can on it.

The problem is I was cutting some firewood a couple days ago and it sounded like it was screaming, as opposed to the slight gurgle I had when I first switched them out. Grabbed the tach, and sure enough she was screaming. I cut the tabs on the limiter when I put the new muffler on. However, I could see from the bump where the tab used to be that the screw had moved back about halfway to where it started out.

I put it a little richer this time, which has the bump touching the white L screw cap, which I am hoping will keep it from moving again.

Is this common? How do I keep it from moving? I thought I would be O.K. since I didn't remove the cap, just cut the tabs with a sharp utility knife.

 

[watsonr]

Normally there is a spring under the cap, check to see if everything looks good. You can pull the cap and look, then put it back on if you'd prefer. I pull the cap and leave them off.

 

[old-cat]

You might want to try silicone on the needle threads.

 

[67L36Driver]

Had a Craftsman/Poulan that had lost the idle speed screw and spring. Replacement kept backing out also. Used Wifey's hot glue gun on the side of it to keep it in place. The soft plastic 'glue' did the trick.

 

[stihl023/5]

If it moved it should have been richer.

 

[Fuzly]

If it moved it should have been richer.

I didn't think of that until you posted. It sure as heck moved clockwise, which makes less sense than before. I'm sneaking on at work to check this thread, but you guys have given me some things to check tomorrow morning.

 

[procarbine2k1]

A light touch of paint on the exposed threads after you have partly threaded the jet back into the carb (wifes finger nail polish) should help. There should be a tension spring on there as well. Ive never had a saw that leaned out, but have seen them back out (richen up).

 

[cpr]

Modern saws generally have the spring and use it to hold adjustment. By extension, older carbs (flatbacks, tillys) have rubber o-rings on the needle that can get worn out instead of springs. Replacing the o-ring cures it.

 

[50blues]

Stopped by the small engine shop the other day and asked them the same thing. Mine was on a tecumseh generator engine. They said finger nail polish on the threads. Just let it dry for a while before you try it. Doesn't dry real fast, but works great.

 

[LegDeLimber]

I like that dollar store nail polish for brushing on the the threads of all the screws
going into those plastic parts that you can't put any torque into.

and the gaudy colors help me keep track of where I've been on a motor.

 

[imagineero]

The proper way is a slight crimp on the threads, lengthwise. There have been some posts in other areas about this, might have been in one of the poulan threads?

Shaun

 

[redunshee]

The proper way is a slight crimp on the threads, lengthwise. There have been some posts in other areas about this, might have been in one of the poulan threads?

Shaun

Can you explain a little further what you mean by a slight crimp? Bending the needle a little?
Bob

 

[cpr]

Can you explain a little further what you mean by a slight crimp? Bending the needle a little?
Bob

Don't bend the needle, it'll be junk. The crimp technique is for into plastic cases. A lot of factory fasteners are that way.

 

[barneyrb]

On some of the saw where the limiters have been completely removed I find a short piece of Tygon (maybe 1/4 long) stretched over the needle screw holds in place quite well. If you use the right size everything will mechanically bind and no movement at all......

 

[lone wolf]

What about Lock Tite?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

What about Lock Tite?

Small dab of Loctite where the jet (threads) enter the body of the carb. A small percentage will actually creep along the threads thus holding the adjustment, while making the jets removable at a later date.

 

[GM-GUY]

I heard about the issue with the MS362 after pulling the caps with the drywall screw. I used a thin strip of rubber inner tube, tucked in the hole against the screw - no issues, and easy enough to remove and re-install.