Is this bar ok?

[Andyshine77]

If you're throwing the chain on one saw and not the other with the same bar and chains, why would it be the bar?[emoji6] As said above check the tensioner. Note that the side tensioners are a bit more fickle in getting the chain tension set properly. I'd also check the rim drive for wear.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I'd also check the rim drive for wear.

+1

 

[egraham]

I put a brand new sprocket on the saw last week before I used it.

here is another picture of the back of the bar. It looks like one side of the groove has been worn by a loose chain.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Yes, but with proper chain tension, do not see why that would be a problem.

 

[egraham]

I have probably been running a loose chain for the entire time I have owned this saw.

I did not realize the 2 types is tensioners made that much of a difference.
Thanks for all your help.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I have probably been running a loose chain for the entire time I have owned this saw.

I did not realize the 2 types is tensioners made that much of a difference.
Thanks for all your help.

When you set your tension, can you slightly lift chain from top and it snaps back to bar? It should roll freely, with no bottom sag.

 

[egraham]

When you set your tension, can you slightly lift chain from top and it snaps back to bar? It should roll freely, with no bottom sag.

yes. I put the new chain on and get the chain snug. I then tighten the bar nuts and crank the saw and run the chain for 2-3 seconds. I then loosen the bar nuts and tighten the chain to where I can pull it off the bottom of the bar just a tad but it will still spin freely. I then tighten everything back up.

 

[scottr]

I just fixed a 281 that kept throwing the chain. The bar tip was wrecked from bumping knots for years, there was some damage by the tail, and the chain was .050 while the bar was .063. I replaced the tip, dressed the rails, put the correct chain on it and it’s good for awhile longer. Take the bar to a saw shop near you and have them “dress” it, which means they’ll grind the rails flat. DON’T chuck that bar, a dressing is $10 or so at the shop near me and it’ll give you a few more years with that bar.

yes. I put the new chain on and get the chain snug. I then tighten the bar nuts and crank the saw and run the chain for 2-3 seconds. I then loosen the bar nuts and tighten the chain to where I can pull it off the bottom of the bar just a t
ad but it will still spin freely. I then tighten everything back up.

Do you hold the tip of the bar up while you tighten the bar nuts ?

 

[rupedoggy]

Do you hold the tip of the bar up while you tighten the bar nuts ?

People come on this site and have to learn the same lessons over and over again. Mike

 

[mojo jojo]

Do you hold the tip of the bar up while you tighten the bar nuts ?

this...I actualy hold the chain up at the near bar end...while set the tension and tighten bar nuts

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Do you hold the tip of the bar up while you tighten the bar nuts ?

Forgot that part, sorry, you are correct. It makes a difference!

 

[Husky Man]

Do you hold the tip of the bar up while you tighten the bar nuts ?

Yep scottr, beat me to this, try supporting the bar tip with a block of wood, while adjusting the tension, this loads the bar in the position it is usually in while cutting. If you don't do this, the bar can shift a little while cutting, and affect the tensioning.

Some Husky owners manuals mention doing this, I don't recall if the 372XP manual specifically mentions this or not, it is just something that I do with all my saws while adjusting tension.

I had a logger tell me to do this years ago, made a big difference, I have done this ever since



Doug

 

[Woodslasher]

Do you hold the tip of the bar up while you tighten the bar nuts ?

Yep, just like my dad taught me. With the tip held up on a block/boot, you tighten the chain until it just kisses the bottom rail and then cinch down the bar nuts. I've never wrecked a bar/chain and have only thrown a chain 2-4 times, all while slashing brush.

 

[Andyshine77]

I put a brand new sprocket on the saw last week before I used it.

here is another picture of the back of the bar. It looks like one side of the groove has been worn by a loose chain.

View attachment 859207

That's normal. Think about a chain re-entering the bar vibrating like crazy at an incredibly high rate of speed.

 

[Andyshine77]

These guys are spot in with holding up the tip of the bar. If you don't do this as you cut the chain will slack pretty quickly as the bar moves, and torque the bar nuts pretty good. Tension the chain without lifting the bar, than lift the bar and you'll see the difference.[emoji111]

 

[egraham]

Thanks for the help I really appreciate all of the responses.

i had forgotten about putting pressure on the tip while tightening the chain.

I never did it with my 365 and did not run into issues.
Thanks again to everyone.

saved me buying a new bar.

 

[Philbert]

Always hard to judge from photos, but I would clean up the tail of that bar and try to run it. Make sure that the grooves are not too sloppy;



It also looks like you have some wire edges forming on the rails (?). I would take the money you saved from replacing the guide bar and buy one of these (about $30) - Get the Oregon, STIHL, or Vallorbe models - stay away from the cheap ones on eBay. Seem expensive at first, but make guide rail maintenance easy, and actually fun!


More info in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-dressing.315936/#post-6420938
Philbert

 

[Andyshine77]

Right on! Just didn't want to overwhelm him. Plus the bar he has looks almost new, so I figured by the time he wares that one out, he'd have saved up for a new one.[emoji6] Definitely grab a bar rail dresser!

 

[egraham]

thanks again. I order a bar file this morning to get rid of the edges

 

[Andyshine77]

thanks again. I order a bar file this morning to get rid of the edges

It's not just to get rid of the edges, it's to square the bar up as well.[emoji111]