Japanese King Maple - Save?

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treeseer

treeseer

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Yup that's a good-looking flare; no need to replant. After getting the view of the bark on the lower trunk, I'm sticking with my original theory of sunscald. Those wounds look just like bark flaking off, unless there's some bug I don't know about. Try scratching between them, and see wha tyou see.

Elmore's thought on wrapping the trunk of young maples in full sun is a good one.

You da man, Brad!
 
mesh2011

mesh2011

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Elmore said:
It's still green. I would dig it up, observe the roots and plant it higher.

If I were to dig it up, what would I be "observing" in the roots?

So, is everyone starting to think this tree can be saved?

If so, any recommendations on trimming? I'm guessing each of those limbs that are now as tall as the tree need to be cut. how much? 50%??

thank you again,

Matthew
 
Elmore

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mesh2011 said:
If I were to dig it up, what would I be "observing" in the roots?

So, is everyone starting to think this tree can be saved?

If so, any recommendations on trimming? I'm guessing each of those limbs that are now as tall as the tree need to be cut. how much? 50%??

thank you again,

Matthew
Look for any material that could gird the roots. Wire, burlap or ties. Also look for compacted, dark colored necrotic roots. Prune out any broken or dead roots and re-position or remove any circling roots or any roots that may be growing as such to choke the root crown. I couldn't look at your last photo of the flare as your image was over a megabyte in size. I have dial up. A computer caveman. It may not need replanting so long as it is planted properly. Was it b&b, WB or containerized? If it was b&b or WB it might be a good idea to dig it up and see if you can remove any material that may be hampering it's growth. It may just be going through a post planting stress. Establish a mulched area at the base of the tree of at least about three feet in diameter for now and don't plant any competing plant material in such area. Water well, slow and deep but don't over water it. Let it dry out somewhat between irrigation. It may recover. If not get you a real Japanese Maple to replace it with. I wouldn't trim any of the top growth until next season. What part of Tennessee are you in?
 
mesh2011

mesh2011

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Elmore said:
Was it b&b, WB or containerized? What part of Tennessee are you in?

Well. I don't know what b&b, WB mean. But the tree had a very large burlap wrapped root ball. Very, very heavy, I had the delivery folks back the truck to where we were going to plant it, so I basically just rolled it into the very large hole I dug.

I live outside Nashville TN, on the east side.

Also, I scaled the picture down and rotated it for easier viewing. Sorry, I meant to do that this morning, but was in a hurry to get moving for work...

thanks again to everyone!

Matthew
 
mesh2011

mesh2011

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oops. Also meant to note:

1) the tree is approaching 3 years in the ground
2) We cut the burlap and removed the wire ball support when we planted.

thanks again,

Matthew
 
Elmore

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What's that black fabric? Weed barrier? I don't care for it. I prefer preemergents. b&b = balled and burlapped(hand dug). WB = Wire Basket(machine dug). You mentioned that you removed the wire ball support...I'm guessing that it was b&b with a Star basket, that is a hand dug tree with a small basket for added support...anyway it sounds like it was planted properly. You didn't amend your soil, did you? Best not to, in most cases. Good luck and the next time you want a red leaved tree may I suggest Acer palmatum 'Emperor I'. :)
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-601.html
 
treeseer

treeseer

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mesh2011 said:
Scratching between what exactly? Between the places where the bark cracked?? :
Yep. Gently. (And it still lokks more like flaked than cracked to me, and I got 20-15 vision, the optodude told me today.)

Brakdyou still da man, you sure like those ncsu links dontcha? You gotta come up here to their arb sometime. Many A palmata for you to pal around wit.

O and I think amendments are often recommendable, but we don't want to derail this do we?
 
Elmore

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treeseer said:
Yep. Gently. (And it still lokks more like flaked than cracked to me, and I got 20-15 vision, the optodude told me today.)

Brakdyou still da man, you sure like those ncsu links dontcha? You gotta come up here to their arb sometime. Many A palmata for you to pal around wit.

O and I think amendments are often recommendable, but we don't want to derail this do we?
Are we amending our consciousness tonight...yes???
 
mesh2011

mesh2011

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treeseer said:
Yep. Gently. (And it still lokks more like flaked than cracked to me, and I got 20-15 vision, the optodude told me today.)

Well, I just went out in the dark with a flashlight and the bark on the south side of the tree is very dry and comes off very easily in sheets.

The bark on the north side is kinda rotten like and comes off easily, but more like dead/rotten wood, with that grainy feel.

Also, on the North side I noticed holes in the bark and tree itself. And I found a few very small grub looking worms in the north side of the tree, where I broke off some bark.

It is amazing how using the flashlight forced a change in perspective. Rather than looking at the entire tree, I was forced to look at it more closely. Now I think it may be a goner.??

anything else?

Matthew
 
treeseer

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South side sunscald north side borers. Nowhere on the trunk did you scratch and see green? Pics of the bug would be nice. tho it does sound bad.

Brad, no, I often think like that unamended. And yes I had an eye checkup that day and got the 20-15 report for far vision. But like mesh, I need an aid to focus up close.

And yes you should visit the ncsu arb that you link to so much, I'll give ya the special A. palmatum/ginkgo tour. And yes amendments are often good; not crazy just fact.

Hey mesh try calling consulting arborist Larry Loiseau and get his take on your tree.
 
Elmore

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treeseer

treeseer

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Shesh yeah I guess you got me there. :blush: Still want to see that larva tho,

Brad, amending like other practices is only wrong if done wrong. Wide hole + good blending = no interface.

This from a friend..Has anyone heard of a Ginkgo leaf scorch disease? We have had a few Ginkgo problems in the Sacramento area. Anyone else with this in their area?
 
Elmore

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treeseer said:
This from a friend..Has anyone heard of a Ginkgo leaf scorch disease? We have had a few Ginkgo problems in the Sacramento area. Anyone else with this in their area?
Ginkgo leaf scorch???...yes it a caused by a human brain disorder where people tend to think that enriching the back fill in a planting hole with organic matter will make the tree/shrub grow better. It usually creates a soil interface which leads to a damaged and/or necrotic root system. Common visual signs are scorched leaves...heh heh...
Last fall I noticed a very big and mature female tree at a local university that had a large section of the top, maybe 1/5 of the crown, turned a light brown. To me it resembled fireblight only lighter colored. I didn't do a close inspection so did not notice any damage. I was concerned that a possible seed source was about to check out. I drove by there this summer and from a distance I could see that the tree is still alive and the affected area of the crown still shows signs of compromise but had leaves on it, indicating that it put on leaves this past season and did not die.

http://www.ipm.uiuc.edu/landturf/diseases/leaf_scorch/
 
mesh2011

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By the way, I wanted to thank everyone for the active dialog and replys. Much appreciated. Still haven't cut down the tree ( we've all been sick ), but I again appreciate the responses.

thanks,

Matthew
 
mesh2011

mesh2011

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The tree is gone: Pic of the grubs in the tree

Well, cut down the tree today. basically the tree had only about 1" of good bark running up the tree, keeping it barely alive. The rest was rotten or dried up.

Thanks again everyone. For your viewing pleasure, here is a pic of the grubs that were eating up the tree. When you pulled it out.. .it had a very large head compared to the rest of the body.

thanks,

Matthew
 

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