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LOL!

That "creme and orange thing" is the workhorse of the fleet. It's the easiest one to find parts for (other than the 2036 which really doesn't count) and my go-to saw for most jobs.

Matter of fact, that 034AVS is gonna have a date with @Mastermind in January.

Once my 80/90 is back together I'll get a new group photo. :picture:
 
Real1shepherd said:
Very nice...especially the 111S and a decent bar. Should have cropped out that creme and orange thing though......

J'red stops at 28" for the bar scabbards. Stihl and Husky have add-on sections as in the pic(Stihl).

Here's a place that has custom scabbards...awesome, but expensive:http://thepackshack.com/shop/agora.cgi?product=Sawyer

Kevin
Click to expand...

Just buy two and cut the nose off of one. That's what I do.
Cantdog cuts the legs off of his pants to cover his bars. So, if you you're evah ovah tah Maine and yah see some fellah runnin' round in Daisy Dukes and runnin' old red saws, you'll know you found him.
 
taplinhill said:
Just buy two and cut the nose off of one. That's what I do.
Cantdog cuts the legs off of his pants to cover his bars. So, if you you're evah ovah tah Maine and yah see some fellah runnin' round in Daisy Dukes and runnin' old red saws, you'll know you found him.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've seen Robin's saws all ready for a GTG with the pant leg thing...lol. I'm tired of buying those plastic scabbards. Depending on how much I use them, the sharp .404skip-tooth chains plays hell with the plastic....even when I'm careful taking them off and I don't like being that careful with plastics. Next time around, I'm treating the bigger saws to those scabbards I linked to. Hopefully, they will last a long-ass time for that money.

When I lived in Chehalis, I had a friend who worked for the Federal Landbank and he would give me scabbards for my saws. Of course they said 'Federal Landbank' all over them, but I didn't care...they were really thick vinyl and held up well....as much as that stuff can.

Kevin
 
Heffalump said:
Don't know if I'll be gettin' up tah Maine any time soon....cahn't get there from here......
Click to expand...

Lol! My favorite expression to this day;something is not long enough or something obviously isn't going to work...or some boss/customer jackass wants me to go out of my way to do him a favor...."Can't get there from here."

So why ain't your 80/90 in the pic(?)...I'm offended! Never mind...saw the reason up above.

I mostly have bigger saws and so I'm not porting those so they'll drink more gas. I believe in true woods porting though, but a lot of these guys doing it are not producing longevity in saws. If I was gonna have one done, it would be somebody in the PNW with a long list of fallers to talk to for references.

Mastermind has a great rep for sure, but he's porting saws for a LOT of amateur, non-professionals too. I'm pretty sure he's porting for some pros....just gotta throw my one cent out there.

You can't sell me on the creme & orange things, sorry......although I'm happy for you that you found a real workhorse in one.


Kevin
 
Is it OK to skip the case halves gasket and just use Motoseal when reassembling a 630? I've everything needed for reassembly minus a gasket set. I am inclined to leave out the cylinder gasket as well.

Thanks fellows.
 
Obviously many here know more than I, but I would suggest that a case half gasket could be easily cut/hammered/peened out of common gasket stock. Eliminating this gasket could affect critical gaps along the crank. Also, verify piston clearance before deleting the cylinder base gasket.

Hope that helps....
 
Agreed...it's not that sealant wouldn't work to keep oil & gas in, but that the manufacturers used a gasket for the crank tolerances. As far as the jug gasket, that's like a 'what's the best oil?' thread. Personally, I'd just use a micro thin gasket like some of J'red saws had from the factory. Compression pressures and oil/gas are mighty hard on sealant...but for a gasket, even a thin one, a walk in the park. Coat the gasket too and you've doubled the longevity.

For the micro gasket, some folks are using common paper of the right thickness and coating it...works. We talked about this very thing in here once.

Kevin
 
Hoggwood said:
Is it OK to skip the case halves gasket and just use Motoseal when reassembling a 630? I've everything needed for reassembly minus a gasket set. I am inclined to leave out the cylinder gasket as well.

Thanks fellows.
Click to expand...


I would not......just buy one...they're still available from any Husky/Jred dealer.......or aftermarket kits.....$15.00 for the whole kit..http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=369

Same as the Husky 61, 266,268 etc.

The mating surfaces are very narrow.... in places (like the top of the oil tank) and don't really have enough area for just a bonding sealer.....gasket also keeps you from squeezing away all the sealer when tightening up the case bolts. By that I mean not ending up metal to metal....
 
Hey Robin,

Would you happen to know if the gasket kit for a J80 crosses over to a still-available Husky set? I assumed it was NLA....
 
Heffalump said:
Hey Robin,

Would you happen to know if the gasket kit for a J80 crosses over to a still-available Husky set? I assumed it was NLA....
Click to expand...



No.....as Kevin said...when the 80's were built there was no connection to Husqvarna what so ever......and yes they have been NLA for years.......once in a while you see a NOS gasket set show up on ebay.......but other than that you have to make your own.....
 
As I figured.

No worries. Rolls of automotive gasket material are pretty cheap. :drinkingcoffee:

BTW Robin, did my PM's get through to you?
 

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