Jonsered Chainsaws

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gave the end of it a whack to get the flywheel off and the threaded part snapped clean off.. never had that happen before, must have been hardened far deeper than usual.. usually you'll strip threads or mushroom it before that happens

Very weird....agree it might have been excessively hardened, or some random metallurgy defect.

Seems like you could find some top end grenaded saw for cheap. I’ve seen a lot saws go to the dump that probably had good cranks.

Kevin
 
Member Kensie1988 and I are trying to find ancient J'reds resources, i.e., information coming from folks who worked @Tilton Equipment.....specifically the main branch in Minnestoa back in the day.:cheers: If anybody has a lead on someone who worked at the Tilton Portland, OR branch that would be great too!

So....if we can find folks still alive to talk with....we need help with members here that have questions about models, sales and options that were available on older saws. I'm open to proposing questions about later models, but I think that info is already out there from more recent dealers like Spike60 etc. If we want to stay pure to Jonsereds models....we can stop at the 910 production time frame.

In the interim, be thinking about questions we can pose that remain unaswered so far about the older saws.

Kevin
 
Member Kensie1988 and I are trying to find ancient J'reds resources, i.e., information coming from folks who worked @Tilton Equipment.....specifically the main branch in Minnestoa back in the day.:cheers: If anybody has a lead on someone who worked at the Tilton Portland, OR branch that would be great too!

So....if we can find folks still alive to talk with....we need help with members here that have questions about models, sales and options that were available on older saws. I'm open to proposing questions about later models, but I think that info is already out there from more recent dealers like Spike60 etc. If we want to stay pure to Jonsereds models....we can stop at the 910 production time frame.

In the interim, be thinking about questions we can pose that remain unaswered so far about the older saws.

Kevin
I'd say cover all models that didn't have Husky equivalents.. that's just me though... I think the 920/930 are as Jonsered as the 910
 
I'd say cover all models that didn't have Husky equivalents.. that's just me though... I think the 920/930 are as Jonsered as the 910

The 930 was essentially a Husky design...the 920 had the Partner handle system and so the only 'pure' Jonsered in that series was the 910. If you look at the 910 full-wrap, there was no other handle system like that on Earth...lol. There were Jonsered saws after the Electrolux buyout that weren't exactly Husky. In other words, not all Jonsered saws after the Electrolux buyout were just Husky rebade models.

I don't think there is any mystery or unanswered questions from the 920 timetable on, right? What we're after is info before that time period.......the 'glory days' of Jonsereds.

Kevin
 
K950 uses the 2095 top end, the 2094 top end is a little different.

But it should fit both cylinder kits on the the k950 and 2095 are 506 15 55-06
2094 is 506 15 55-04

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 
Well there's that....lol. I used to find sound, big J'reds saws from eBay for a lot less than that. However, I don't see the prices for the bigger cc saws collapsing anytime soon. Logically, you'd think they'd reach a ceiling, but I dunno.

I bought a German assault rifle back in the late 70's new for around $400...now they hover for about $5,000. I bailed at about $3,000.....don't regret selling it a bit. I expect that the big cc saws may do the same....keep escalating in price on eBay.

Kevin
 
My Dad was a Canadian CEF and Militia officers cap badge and helmet plate collector and avid military historian. We travelled to eastern Canada on our annual family camping trip in 1965 and stopped at every city museum on the way down. He would always go to see the military curator and I got to tag along. I was fascinated by guns then and got to go in the back rooms. I remember vividly counting 44 of those German assault rifles in 8mm short that were issued to tank crews in a rack in the hallway in the museum in Fredericton, New Brunswick. Actually the first assault rifle by modern standards.

I still think about that.
 
Those were the days. Up here it was "sporterized" Lee Enfields. $15 with a box of hardball. That military hardball had a thick cupronickel jacket around lead. I shot one of those through a piece of concrete sidewalk 4" thick. I think that's what added expanding ammunition only for hunting deer and moose here.
 
Those old military loads could penetrate most engine blocks...don't ask me how I know that....lol.

I remember as a kid pouring through all those ads in the back of American Rifleman for used military guns, mail order. What they say about hindsight.......

Kevin
 
Fellas -

Is there a trick to removing the clips that hold the starter pawls in place on a 621, 80, 90, 111, etc? I have a 111 that needs a pawl replaced, and looking at one of my 621's, someone installed the pawls upside down/backwards.

I know I can get them off with persistence and brute strength, but I'd rather not destroy or lose the clip in the process.

Thanks

Scott
 
Here is the case of beer 451ev back in action. Heated handles working and has fast become my buddies favorite. I guess we won't flip this one. Stihls seem easier to sell!

Still need a top cover but otherwise no spark condition was the switch. Fuel line was rotted off so carb needed a thorough cleaning. I have to say I never had much interest in these but it's kind of a little hot rod. 20°F might have influenced my interest.
 
Fellas -

Is there a trick to removing the clips that hold the starter pawls in place on a 621, 80, 90, 111, etc? I have a 111 that needs a pawl replaced, and looking at one of my 621's, someone installed the pawls upside down/backwards.

I know I can get them off with persistence and brute strength, but I'd rather not destroy or lose the clip in the process.

Thanks

Scott

Ok, so these are Type G grip rings, looks like they're invented by a company named Seeger, and there's a proprietary set of pliers that you need to remove them. https://www.seeger-orbis.com/products/assembly-tools/ring-pliers/



Anyway, I was able to get the original ones off by using brute strength, but I broke the tips off doing so. And when I tried to get some clips off another flywheel to replace the broken ones, I failed. These suckers are on there good!

I eventually managed to put the boogered up ones back on the saw and they'll work fine. It just bugs me because they're busted up a bit.
 
OK, I see what you're doing now. I have a couple of pairs of those release pliers; one you squeeze to release out, one you squeeze to release in. But not to be confused with auto internal, external snap ring pliers. Really small...barely fit in your hand.....I have no idea where I got them. I could post a pic of them if you like, but they're so old I have no source.

Also in a pinch, if you find just the right slot screwdriver blade, you can work it in there and turn to release the clips.

Kevin
 

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