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Oiler is still not working. The o ring did have a flat spot on it. I attached a photo of the o ring in question. Is this the one that would allow oil to pass into the crankcase?
View attachment 927788
Yes.....beyond that o-ring is open to the main bearing area and oil pump drive cam.
 
My experience in general with oiler O-rings is that you get exactly OE sizes. Dont' fudge with too small or too large....even if they seem to fit.

However, I'm not convinced that O-ring is the cause of your non-oiling problem....I'm thinking not.

Kevin
 
I've run into a bit of a conundrum with trying to get a new switch for my 49SP.I was told they're still available,but the part # I was given is not the right one - 504385603,that is for a different saw.The 504385603 has the spades sticking down instead of sticking straight out.There are plenty of 504385603 switches on Feebay.I need part # 4385602 (A J'red part #).I can't even find a generic toggle switch that has the spade stick straight out.
 
My experience in general with oiler O-rings is that you get exactly OE sizes. Dont' fudge with too small or too large....even if they seem to fit.

However, I'm not convinced that O-ring is the cause of your non-oiling problem....I'm thinking not.

Kevin
I would have to agree with you. My thoughts are that there is something else that’s causing the oiler to malfunction…..if indeed there is a problem with its operation.

The bad o ring would likely make it smoke like crazy all the time but should still pump oil out to the bar. I did not see anything wrong with the rubber hose that connects the reservoir to the pump and all the lines seem to allow fluid to flow through them.

Is there a work gear or something similar that runs off the crank similar to other models? Is there something in behind the clutch that can be examined?
 
I would have to agree with you. My thoughts are that there is something else that’s causing the oiler to malfunction…..if indeed there is a problem with its operation.

The bad o ring would likely make it smoke like crazy all the time but should still pump oil out to the bar. I did not see anything wrong with the rubber hose that connects the reservoir to the pump and all the lines seem to allow fluid to flow through them.

Is there a work gear or something similar that runs off the crank similar to other models? Is there something in behind the clutch that can be examined?
No the oil pump is driven by a eccentric cam that is pressed onto the crankshaft outboard of the PTO side main bearing. The pump shaft operates in an in and out fashion...not round and round. Nothing to see under the clutch except the crank seal.
 
This oiler malfunction of Trevor's brings back bad memories of an Olympik 254 I had yrs.ago.I had the saw for 15-20 yrs.& it developed a non-oiling issue that no one ever did figure out.The saw would pump oil like no tomorrow till it got hot,then it'd just stop oiling.The saw shop owner put a couple different pumps in it & would call me to say my saw was ready.I told him to run the sasw on his woodpile till it got hot.He said he did,but in retrospect I know he just lied to me.I'd get the saw home & take it out cutting & have the no oil issue all over again.Finally I took the saw back & told him to recycle it.The no oiling issue was never solved.Looking at the pics of the oil pump that was put in Trevor's saw (820?),those oil pumps they put in J'red saws are identical to the one that was used in the Olympik 254.As a matter of fact I've got a couple extra oiler pumps laying around,I'll get some pics on here later.
 
I was trying to find a switch for my 49SP all over the place.Someone told me they're still available,part # 504385603.That is a Husky part # now & the switch is different than what I need.The spade must point straight out towards the engine,not down or sideways,it won't fit in the confined area.I have a parts 49SP ,so I found a single wire switch in my garage & drilled out the hole for the switch to fit.I hpoked the 2 wires together & started the saw & flipped the switch to the off position & the saw kept running.My first thought was the switch was bad,but in my experiences with bad switches they usually ground out so the saw won't start.It can keep running as well.I decided to test a little further.I hooked up a plain wire to the kill switch wire in the saw & started the saw again.According to my theory,I should've been able to touch the bare end of the wire to the metal plate of the saw & it should've grounded it out & killed the saw,but it didn't do anything.When I had the points assembly off I saw the wire that goes to the coil noting that it was the kill switch wire.I made sure it was hooked up to the coil.I did notice though that someone had been in there before me,it was way too clean,they must've done points or condenser work.Anyway,I saw where the wire had a couple bare spots from being caught under the points plate instead of being run under the points box & held in place with the screws for the cover.How do I replace the wire?It looks like it's soldered onto the condenser.There's another small metal plate where the wire runs into as well.Can I take the condenser plate off & put the one on from my parts 49SP?How to do it?
 
I've run into a bit of a conundrum with trying to get a new switch for my 49SP.I was told they're still available,but the part # I was given is not the right one - 504385603,that is for a different saw.The 504385603 has the spades sticking down instead of sticking straight out.There are plenty of 504385603 switches on Feebay.I need part # 4385602 (A J'red part #).I can't even find a generic toggle switch that has the spade stick straight out.
I've used the Husky switch...just very gently with a pair of needle nose pliers bent the prong up to fit .
Ernie
 
I would have to agree with you. My thoughts are that there is something else that’s causing the oiler to malfunction…..if indeed there is a problem with its operation.

The bad o ring would likely make it smoke like crazy all the time but should still pump oil out to the bar. I did not see anything wrong with the rubber hose that connects the reservoir to the pump and all the lines seem to allow fluid to flow through them.

Is there a work gear or something similar that runs off the crank similar to other models? Is there something in behind the clutch that can be examined?
In almost all scenarios like this, it turns out to be that the oiler isn't primed. I know you've tried to prime it, so I'm at a loss. Maybe try something lighter weight....like 10wt, just to get things going, then dump out and put back bar oil?

Kevin
 
In almost all scenarios like this, it turns out to be that the oiler isn't primed. I know you've tried to prime it, so I'm at a loss. Maybe try something lighter weight....like 10wt, just to get things going, then dump out and put back bar oil?

Kevin
I guess that would be the easiest thing to do. Just try again. Nothing to lose. I used winter oil but possibly I just didn’t give it enough time. I’m used to manual oilers as well. Probably it’s just an example of inexperienced saw enthusiasts . I’m pretty stubborn and determined though so I will definitely figure it out sooner or later.
 
I guess that would be the easiest thing to do. Just try again. Nothing to lose. I used winter oil but possibly I just didn’t give it enough time. I’m used to manual oilers as well. Probably it’s just an example of inexperienced saw enthusiasts . I’m pretty stubborn and determined though so I will definitely figure it out sooner or later.
Yeah, we don't care if it's bar oil.....just something light enough to prime the pump and get ya going again. Then you can dump and put back bar oil.

Kevin
 
Yeah, we don't care if it's bar oil.....just something light enough to prime the pump and get ya going again. Then you can dump and put back bar oil.

Kevin
I’m not sure if I have any lighter oil on hand but I do have kerosene. I’ve heard of thinning out bar oil with it. How much would be enough but not too much to cause any damage to the seals and I rings?
 
I’m not sure if I have any lighter oil on hand but I do have kerosene. I’ve heard of thinning out bar oil with it. How much would be enough but not too much to cause any damage to the seals and I rings?
Before bar oil came out, we used to thin motor oil with diesel for the winter. I can't remember the ratio...probably a third diesel. I can't see where that would hurt anything.

Kevin
 
Yes. I got home from work Thursday morning and seen the add for two 028 stihls and a small jonesered. He had a seperate add for the engine. I offered him 160 for all and he messaged me back about three minutes later and said come get it. When I got there the next morning he also threw in a tote box of stuff and a 08s Stihl and a pioneer holiday 1100.
 
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