Jonsered Chainsaws

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JonseredS 490 with heated handles and 1982 date on tag. Not even broke in IMO. Only used at GTG's. :msp_tongue:

jonseredbar5000clyfin001.jpg

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490

JonseredS 490 with heated handles and 1982 date on tag. Not even broke in IMO. Only used at GTG's.

That'a great looking 490, and a rare find. Out here in the NW the thinners used 490s and beat them to death, so finding one still alive is pretty tough.
 
this is not exactly a chainsaw post but has anybody anywhere found a dealer or someone who sells jonsered ballcaps.. i can't find one anywhere around here !

P.S. that is a great looking saw,, when did jonsered start putting primer bulbs on?



terry m:msp_sad:
 
I got a 1990 2045 that I am working on now. Needs a new piston and ring. Already put meriatic acid in the cylinder and she is still a little rough, but will still do. The previous owner ran her to lean and overheated it. Melted the ring right to the piston. Should be a decent saw when im done. Gonna throw in new crank seals while I am at it. With the cylinder like that, shes gonna burn oil like crazy :hmm3grin2orange:
 
I'm gonna be picking up a 2071 that supposedly needs a carb. I'm gonna try to put in it first to see if that works. But to my original question is I found a jred that is all red even the top and the owner isn't sure what it is and I'm not very knowledgeable on Jreds. I do have a pic but it's on my smart phone and I'm not ashamed to say sometimes it's smarter then me. If some could help or point me in the right direction to start looking I would appreciate it.
 
ChainLightning said:
I got a 1990 2045 that I am working on now. Needs a new piston and ring. Already put meriatic acid in the cylinder and she is still a little rough, but will still do. The previous owner ran her to lean and overheated it. Melted the ring right to the piston. Should be a decent saw when im done. Gonna throw in new crank seals while I am at it. With the cylinder like that, shes gonna burn oil like crazy :hmm3grin2orange:
Click to expand...

You can buy aftermarket top end kits for that saw. They are around $90, then you will have a running saw worth $75. :)
 
hey guys. I picked up an johnny 80, put a carb kit in(pretty gummy in there varnish looking stuff) and got her to run/idle perfect now, but I'm having a problem that I have never ran into before. I t seems to be sucking fuel after i shut it off. like i come back after five minutes later after running it and the V-stack and carb will be full of gas so much that it will spill over to the saw and there will be a big puddle under the saw. this morning I went out there to look at it sure enough theres fuel everywhere. someone else has put new fuel line from the square pump thing to carb but from the tank to the pump thing it looks original. also this was happening before I went through the carb thinking it was the carb. Could it be that pump thing? just need some ideas, thanks guys....
 
The other tube running from the white box is the tank vent, I'd make sure that's not plugged allowing pressure to build in the tank. I haven't seen it happen, but seems theoretically possible, that pressure could build in the tank forcing gas into the carb. Also, are you sure the gas is coming from the carb, otherwise it could be a bad crankcase gasket allowing the gas to escape out the bottom of the saw.
 
Whiskers said:
The other tube running from the white box is the tank vent, I'd make sure that's not plugged allowing pressure to build in the tank. I haven't seen it happen, but seems theoretically possible, that pressure could build in the tank forcing gas into the carb. Also, are you sure the gas is coming from the carb, otherwise it could be a bad crankcase gasket allowing the gas to escape out the bottom of the saw.
Click to expand...

OK thanks for tip. I do think it is that vent box maybe vapor-lock. also after I shut it off I can here the gas pumping into the carb through the V-stack. I'm 100% sure now its the box and crank case cause the carb will be full of gas also... ill check it toammarow....
 
On the top of the fuel line junction block (square, white plastic deal) is a fitting that screws into the block and the vent line attaches to it. That has a loose ball type check valve in it which must be loose. Its purpose is mostly to allow air to enter the tank as fuel is used but it is suppose to be loose enough to allow pressure to escape as well........another part of this system is the vent line...it must leave this fitting vertically then loop forward over the choke shaft, and then run back down under the carb and over to a hole in the right side of the that exits in the clutch drum area. Probaly your check valve is stuck or very gummy (remember the varnish?) and not allowing the pressure to escape properly after the saw is shut off and heat builds in the cases and fuel tank. If the fuel level is low enough in the tank you could just crack the fuel cap and release the pressure until the saw cools off. BTW the fuel pumps are in the carb and have nothing at all to do with the white platic deal, it is simply the fuel line and vent junction block...
 
Last edited:
Cantdog said:
On the top of the fuel line junction block (square, white plastic deal) is a fitting that screws into the block and the vent line attaches to it. That has a loose ball type check valve in it which must be loose. Its purpose is mostly to allow air to enter the tank as fuel is used but it is suppose to be loose enough to allow pressure to escape as well........another part of this system is the vent line...it must leave this fitting vertically then loop forward over the choke shaft, and then run back down under the carb and over to a hole in the right side of the that exits in the clutch drum area. Probaly your check valve is stuck or very gummy (remember the varnish?) and not allowing the pressure to escape properly after the saw is shut off and heat builds in the cases and fuel tank. If the fuel level is low enough in the tank you could just crack the fuel cap and release the pressure until the saw cools off. BTW the fuel pumps are in the carb and have nothing at all to do with the white platic deal, it is simply the fuel line and vent junction block...
Click to expand...

alight great info, and breaking it down.... much appreciated Cantdog
 
what kind of carb is in that thing? i've had the same gas overflow on a dolmar demo saw i rebuilt. after a lot of figuring, my last bet was the needle valve seat wasn't quite right, allowing the gas to come up that way. that saw had a duck-bill in disquise, so I gutted that and put in something that would allow pressure to release from the tank. it worked fine after that.

the poulans have a lot of pressure in the tanks, and some of those guys replaced the duck bills with a stihl style (homemade or bought) vent - the one that looks like a tube with screws in it. the newer stihl style vent works better, I hear, and is just stuck on the end of a tube, too.

go down towards the bottom of the page here to see some diagrams, if they help....

.... well, that didn't work. what do we have against the forestry f-o-r-u-m?

i'll load the pics here instead:
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attachment.php

View attachment 240950View attachment 240951
 
What jreds does everyone look for for collecting purposes. Not looking to resell but if I had to I would to help someone else out.
 

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