Jonsered Chainsaws

[numnutz6383]

Have no idea....some sort of production run # of the flywheel I suspect. Just make sure that in the entire run of 451's, they didn't change the configuration of the flywheel/coil arrangement.

Kevin

Configuration was changed at some point as @Cantdog reported, and I've found by looking for used parts for this saw. There's definitely two different ignition systems, possibly three. I have the earliesr run, in which the module is mounted on the cylinder vs directly on the spark plug. I believe the col is in the same location in at least two iterations. If the location of the coil remained the same between different runs, the flywheel wouldn't have changed, right?

Mine says "K1" where yours has "L5". Rest of numbers are the same.

Got ya. I've seen a few 451 flywheels on eBay that had different 8 digit designations, as well as the letter/number code following the arrow

 

[mogulmasher]

Yeah all my other digits are same as yours. Do you need a flywheel? I only bought this one so I could steal pawl springs from it.

 

[numnutz6383]

Yeah all my other digits are same as yours. Do you need a flywheel? I only bought this one so I could steal pawl springs from it.

I don't know for sure at this time, and won't until I get it put back together, but I don't think so. I appreciate the offer.

I was informed by @Real1shepherd that I probably fudged up by cleaning it in a USC and causing some sort of liner covering the magnets to disintegrate. Is yours off an E or EV?

 

[mogulmasher]

My saw is an ev, however I don't know about the flywheel. It has the magnets in inside diameter so guessing it's for an ev? Like I said I just bought it off eBay simply cause I couldn't find pawl springs.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I don't know for sure at this time, and won't until I get it put back together, but I don't think so. I appreciate the offer.

I was informed by @Real1shepherd that I probably fudged up by cleaning it in a USC and causing some sort of liner covering the magnets to disintegrate. Is yours off an E or EV?

Lol....not really. I said it was a possibility that the USC could have loosened up the bonded magnets. Most likely you're OK. You might wanna get the flywheel from mogulmasher as a backup anyway. Fins get broken over time etc. Maybe you could trade him something. Or just wait and see what happens when you fire 'er up.

I have a smaller J'red in my bone pile.....I should look at its flywheel #. Bought it for dirt....offered to give away parts from it in this thread.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

As I said earlier there are three different igns for the 451......entirely different..... needing different flywheels.

The one in the pics is the latest ign used on these saws.......the next one back in time is nearly identicle to the ign used on the 910E......only difference is the length of the two thin wires connecting the module to the coil which is mounted on the sparkplug.

 

[Cantdog]

My saw is an ev, however I don't know about the flywheel. It has the magnets in inside diameter so guessing it's for an ev? Like I said I just bought it off eBay simply cause I couldn't find pawl springs.

And then there's that!!!

 

[mogulmasher]

So the inner magnets are to run heated handles right?

 

[Real1shepherd]

So the inner magnets are to run heated handles right?

Take a piece of steel and run it around the outside surface of the flywheel.....those are your ignition magnets....the ones inside would be for the heated handle stator/generator, yes.

Kevin

 

[cbfarmall]

Encountered this in a 2095 IPL. Can anybody explain what this 'z key' is for? I know Homelite used an offset key in their 540s to combat cooling issues.

 

[ErnieG]

Encountered this in a 2095 IPL. Can anybody explain what this 'z key' is for? I know Homelite used an offset key in their 540s to combat cooling issues.

Wouldn't that be the woodruff key for the flywheel?
Ernie

 

[cbfarmall]

Wouldn't that be the woodruff key for the flywheel?
Ernie

Yes, but it shows 2 part numbers, one of which is referred to as 'z key'. The 735xx number shows up as a standard key. I am not sure about the other.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Never heard of a 'Z' key.....I wonder if it's slightly thicker for worn keyways? Those wily Swedes.......

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Encountered this in a 2095 IPL. Can anybody explain what this 'z key' is for? I know Homelite used an offset key in their 540s to combat cooling issues.

My guess would be the "Z" key would be used to adavance or retard the timing form stock depending on whch way it was installed......likely to retard where the 2095 was designed from the 2094 as a milling saw. This would lower the rpm and make the saw run cooler on long runs at WOT....

I had a 2095 at the shop that was sold new with a 12' Jonsered saw mill/carrage set up.......had a few different things on it you don't see....like a .325 Bar and ripping chain etc.

 

[cbfarmall]

My guess would be the "Z" key would be used to adavance or retard the timing form stock depending on whch way it was installed......likely to retard where the 2095 was designed from the 2094 as a milling saw. This would lower the rpm and make the saw run cooler on long runs at WOT....

I had a 2095 at the shop that was sold new with a 12' Jonsered saw mill/carrage set up.......had a few different things on it you don't see....like a .325 Bar and ripping chain etc.

Kind of what I was thinking. I heard a few times of owners saying the 2095 was detuned from the 2094 for milling and maybe swapping this key would pep it up some. I don't know. Thought it was interesting.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Kind of what I was thinking. I heard a few times of owners saying the 2095 was detuned from the 2094 for milling and maybe swapping this key would pep it up some. I don't know. Thought it was interesting.

Definitely.....I've heard of the concept but have yet to see a key like that. Need the 'aha' moment.

The first time I ran my 2094 I thought it was going to blow up. First 14,000+rpm saw I ever ran.

I've heard that about the '94 versus the '95. I've not run a '95, so dunno the truth of it. '94 has a conventional throttle linkage while the '95 has a cable.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Definitely.....I've heard of the concept but have yet to see a key like that. Need the 'aha' moment.

The first time I ran my 2094 I thought it was going to blow up. First 14,000+rpm saw I ever ran.

I've heard that about the '94 versus the '95. I've not run a '95, so dunno the truth of it. '94 has a conventional throttle linkage while the '95 has a cable.

Kevin

Yep that's so you can easily attach the longer, remote throttle to the saw for milling. Kinda like a lawn mower throttle.......no need to hold the trigger the whole time. Like I said earlier I had a 2095 at the shop with the Jonsered sawmill carrage and track. Had to go through it for the owner.....it had very low hours but had sat for quite awhile...so you know...fuel lines, carb kit etc. etc. Got to look it over pretty good in it's original, factory milling setup......more complex that one would imagine. The .325 B&C made sense, I guess but blew my mind none the less........as did the spur drive drum.....don't know where the hell you would ever find another. Convert it over to rim drive I guess.

 

[Cantdog]

Now here's a durn nice looking 70E......very low hour by the look

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3853538480...couhCVfwzMbJfNaZK4yDXK1H8=|tkp:Bk9SR-DBw_q2YQ

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yep that's so you can easily attach the longer, remote throttle to the saw for milling. Kinda like a lawn mower throttle.......no need to hold the trigger the whole time. Like I said earlier I had a 2095 at the shop with the Jonsered sawmill carrage and track. Had to go through it for the owner.....it had very low hours but had sat for quite awhile...so you know...fuel lines, carb kit etc. etc. Got to look it over pretty good in it's original, factory milling setup......more complex that one would imagine. The .325 B&C made sense, I guess but blew my mind none the less........as did the spur drive drum.....don't know where the hell you would ever find another. Convert it over to rim drive I guess.

Weird. Robin, did you happen to throw a tach on that millin' 2095? I bet they slowed that horse down a bit to keep 'er running cooler.

.325 I suppose to keep the kerf bite down. If you wanted to stay that size, I'm like you, where the heck would you find another .325 spur drive to fit that saw? And probably to convert to .325 rim drive you might be up against the same battle.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Now here's a durn nice looking 70E......very low hour by the look

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3853538480...couhCVfwzMbJfNaZK4yDXK1H8=|tkp:Bk9SR-DBw_q2YQ

I dunno about "mint"....need better pics/lighting and a pic of the bottom. But yeah, very nice condition and what appears to be original.

I think if anything kills the sale price a bit it's the fault of the pics. A good time to test the new year's chainsaw marketplace on fleabay. I would think it will go
towards $400(certainly not from me!), maybe even more. But many folks are broke as chite from Xmas still. 6 days to go on the sale......

No feedback either.....my guess is someone passed and that gal in the background is the widow.....relative taking the pics, kitchen table etc.

Kevin